No there's enough room for a standard drill. I piloted with a 1/16 I believe
2020 Ford F350 Kenwood Dual Band Install
- Thread starter amoking
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I'd like to think that the antennas are separated far enough frequency wise that it shouldn't happen. 144 vs 780
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slowmover
Active Member
Very nice to see!
Allow me a recommendation I’d make to anyone:
ANCOR Fire-Retardant split-loom wire conduit (or equivalent meeting USCG-spec).
I drive over 100,000-miles annually. My experience is that power cabling & coax sooner or later gets dirt and accidental abuse which conduit both minimizes or prevents AND adds protection (maybe some RF rejection).
OEM harnesses are the guide. I believe these should come in/out of the vehicle with a minimum of hassle. Are complete within themselves. (Same goes for oil cooler hoses, etc).
At the firewall I now use Marine Cable Glands for power runs.
Adel Clamps (cushioned) to prevent movement.
USCG-rated Marine Duplex Wiring. This plus conduit equals three (3) layers of wire protection). The higher the maximum amp draw, the more important.
USCG has its own rules (vibration a huge problem as for us; no solder, only crimps). On those forums pertaining, how motor & sail operators do the same runs are instructive when pictured.
(Airplanes are more restricted yet).
Thus also, USCG-rated Adhesive Heat Shrink Terminations.
This guideline-set for me (past 25-years) leads to permanent quality (dont have to rebuild; just maintain) installs lasting more than a decade.
FWIW, I haven’t ever NOT removed and re-installed a mobile rig to better things. Once. Sometimes more.
Not saying anyone else should.
The above is offered for consideration only.
.
Allow me a recommendation I’d make to anyone:
ANCOR Fire-Retardant split-loom wire conduit (or equivalent meeting USCG-spec).
I drive over 100,000-miles annually. My experience is that power cabling & coax sooner or later gets dirt and accidental abuse which conduit both minimizes or prevents AND adds protection (maybe some RF rejection).
OEM harnesses are the guide. I believe these should come in/out of the vehicle with a minimum of hassle. Are complete within themselves. (Same goes for oil cooler hoses, etc).
At the firewall I now use Marine Cable Glands for power runs.
Adel Clamps (cushioned) to prevent movement.
USCG-rated Marine Duplex Wiring. This plus conduit equals three (3) layers of wire protection). The higher the maximum amp draw, the more important.
USCG has its own rules (vibration a huge problem as for us; no solder, only crimps). On those forums pertaining, how motor & sail operators do the same runs are instructive when pictured.
(Airplanes are more restricted yet).
Thus also, USCG-rated Adhesive Heat Shrink Terminations.
This guideline-set for me (past 25-years) leads to permanent quality (dont have to rebuild; just maintain) installs lasting more than a decade.
FWIW, I haven’t ever NOT removed and re-installed a mobile rig to better things. Once. Sometimes more.
Not saying anyone else should.
The above is offered for consideration only.
.
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I love the install and if I ever get a Super Duty (under consideration if we get a trailer...) I will likely get that antenna mount for the rear brake light.
I just have one suggestion: Could you move the radio chassis forward an inch or two to allow the PL259 to be connected without a right-angle adapter? I try to avoid adapters on my antenna lines when possible.
I just have one suggestion: Could you move the radio chassis forward an inch or two to allow the PL259 to be connected without a right-angle adapter? I try to avoid adapters on my antenna lines when possible.
mmckenna
I ♥ Ø
I did a similar install on my F350. The RF deck for my radio is sitting with the antenna jack/heat sink facing upwards, so no right angle adapters needed. Also, with the exception of the far right side of the space where the jack is, there's plenty of room to move the radio around.
I used a standard drill. Did small pilot holes then screwed the bracket into the seat. Then I attached the actual speaker.
perhaps but I have zero issues with it. SWR is optimal even with the 90 bend
The loss may be negligible in your case. Many avoid adapters just to eliminate another 'fail point' in the install but if it's working as you desire then that's good.
Token
Member
This may depend on which sound system you have. In my Raptor there is a sub behind the driver side rear seat, and that makes the usable space on the rear wall very limited. That was what drove me to mounting under the rear seat instead of behind the rear seat.
T!
mmckenna
I ♥ Ø
True. My work and personal F-350's are both XL trim, so rubber floors and vinyl seats, no amps behind the seats.
Our PD just got a new crew cab F-150 police package. All the radios/lighting are mounted behind the rear seat.
that;s why the BuiltRight rear seat rack was an awesome fine.
mmckenna
I ♥ Ø
Yeah, nice looking product. I fabricated my own using Unistrut and some existing brackets I had.
I have a sub back there so I had to 'invest' in one of those.
They do make some nice looking stuff. It's unfortunate that they've chosen to ignore GM products, however. Ford, Ram, and Toyota only. But, their business so their choice.
i have seen a few 3rd brake light mounts but this one is real nice
Great install. I'll be doing my '18 F350 with a Kenwood TK-8180 GMRS and remote kit. I'll be using your install as a guide with some small differences. I have the BuiltRight dash mount so considering the head unit there. It must be a wider radio than what you used cuz test-fit in the cubby was too big. I will use the BR rear seat bracket - nice find; I don't think they had that yet when I last shopped there.
I'll likely drill a 3/8" hole center of the roof for my 1/4 wave NMO and save the money.
Is there a link to this tool of which you speak or are they separate items? I did a bit of a search but found nothing similar.
Buy a $10.00 trim piece removal kit that has a BRIGHT COLORED cable snake in it. This made running cables under carpet and up into consoles a breeze. Bright coloring helps you see the snake under the dash etc.
Thanks for the great writeup.
I'll likely drill a 3/8" hole center of the roof for my 1/4 wave NMO and save the money.
Is there a link to this tool of which you speak or are they separate items? I did a bit of a search but found nothing similar.
Buy a $10.00 trim piece removal kit that has a BRIGHT COLORED cable snake in it. This made running cables under carpet and up into consoles a breeze. Bright coloring helps you see the snake under the dash etc.
Thanks for the great writeup.
Look on Amazon for Fstop Labs 39 Pieces Auto Upholstery Trim and Molding Removal Tool Kit, Car Dash Panel Removal and Install Kit with Storage Bag.
Direct link to the kit: https://www.amazon.com/Fstop-Labs-Trim-Removal-Tool/dp/B07DQVHHBH
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