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Dang Ford..Could use some help on my antenna....

mmckenna

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There's a number of ways to do the next step. A small set of needle nose pliers works well to hold the center section to keep it from turning.
U2LsWVb.jpg


Then put a wrench on the outer ring and snug it down. Do not over tighten it, but snug it down.
This is a small VHF antenna, but when you are done, this is what it'll look like:
17po4u1.jpg

OPhkagD.jpg
 

slowmover

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niceguy71

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I purchased the mount and antenna that @mmckenna had recommend all ready. It should be here next week. I have actually had a CB in my my Ram 3500 before I picked up my new F-350. It was a cheap Uniden Pro505XL but it worked for what I needed it for. A very long time ago I was in CB pretty darn heavy. Back then it was much different then now. Everyone had one and we enjoyed talking on both base and mobile. 1965 I got my first Midland CB base station with a set of 4 element beam and rotor. We had a good time back then. Now 60 years later I still enjoy them. I started more research after not being able to get the radio in my f-350 to work correctly. That lead me to look for a smaller radio and new antenna. The ram had a K-40 mag mount that worked well. I decided to go ahead an drill a hole in my new truck. After thinking about it, it wouldn't be the first hole drilled in it. The factory put the first couple holes in it for GPS and what ever. So what's another one. I wished I would have waited on everything after finding this site, but it is what it is now!
AWESOME that your going to drill the hole.... I always hope a new guy in the hobby will buy something that works well like that K-40 you had.... and then slowly try to get the guys to upgrade..... you're jumping in feet first, good for you! I wish everyone would!
 

billdean

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I have found someone to install my NMO 27 antenna not to far away. Pro Comm a company that said they could do it. They will come to my house and install it here. They charge $160.00 per hour and said it would take 2 hours and that includes travel time. I believe I will let them do it as I don't really have the tools and knowledge of all the trim piece and air bags in my f350. I also ordered and new AT5555N-II to try to install into my truck too. I travel a lot and my up coming yearly trip to SW Arizona and back is a 60 hour ordeal. I want a good radio and antenna, installed right for that commute. I even ordered a Driver Extreme DRX9010 External Speaker. Where's it all going to go? Well I don't know, but will hopefully figure it out. If I don't then maybe I will have a Base Station in my 5th wheel in the desert.
 

Chris155

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Industrial strength adhesive backed Velcro holds my 5555n2 on top of the dash. Not really anywhere else to mount it with good visibility from the driver seat. Truth is the radio works so well it’s worth velcroing on top of the dash. The smaller radios I’ve run mount easier but just don’t work as well.
 

slowmover

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Radio & Speaker Mount Solution.

LIDO MOUNT L-MAX DELUXE for Radio (seat bolt). Optional brace takes weight capacity to 17# from 8#

LIDO Headrest External Speaker Mount (DRX-901). Mount to outside of seat (window). I’d add a brace. (See pic below for stronger)

Magnetic Mic holder

My earlier links have been deleted.

Start points




Correct location for a speaker is over left shoulder (@jcrmadden DIY from steel

IMG_7846.jpeg
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slowmover

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Thanks @slowmover. That helps a lot. I had been reviewing cup holder mounts, but I like this stuff better.

You’re welcome.

I’d get optional brace for radio mount “just because”. You may add something to it someday.

The speaker mount will need, IMO, some extra bracing. The 901 is heavy compared to other offerings (more cheaply made).

You’re about to have one helluva system. By which I mean the ease of use paired to gear quality (and install) will make speaking with others seamless.

That Ford will be an ambassador for a HQ “High Performance” Citizen Band Radio Rig.


Overcoming the deficiencies of the other mens radio rigs is the goal. “To Hear, and Be Heard”.
These days it’s about Clarity, not excess watts.

With the 5’er hitched you’ll not have such great TX/RX to the rear. Close couple and TTL Height is a barrier. My experience in big truck in such is that not a great deal of info is lost.

My trailer is lower, much farther away and my antenna is taller. I’ll be able to speak to someone passing a bit farther, is all.

Please test for 12V noise.

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slowmover

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If you substantially up-size the DC GROUND from trailer to truck and install an RF Bond to jump the hitch plate these will improve performance.

Little things that add up.

LED lights, USB chargers, etc can add unwanted noise. Consider that testing as being part of the break-in period (driver settling into expectations).

Most noise comes in across the coax.

Almost got blanked by a passing pickup yesterday. Why I’ve persevered re S/NR

Post in thread 'Antenna Feedpoint Coax Choke'
Antenna Feedpoint Coax Choke

Posts 51 & 52

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billdean

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My 5th wheel is 13.5 feet to the top of the air conditioners. Hard to get over that. I was thinking of putting on the NMO30 with the W640 whip while traveling with it and then switch it out after get camped. Testing for 12V noise is just a matter of disconnecting the coax from the radio, right.
 

slowmover

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No reason to swap unless you love drive-thru. My permanent antenna is at 13’. (7’ tall). Testing my 60” backup lost several miles of range against the 84” (on road towards Interstate). That loss means fewer choices about re-routing myself in a timely fashion.

A retailer I’ve used often. May need a little, but mainly need to know to how isolate & ID.



.
 

slowmover

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Will that work? I run a 1/4" plastic plate on my hitch instead of lube. Would that not isolate the trailer from the truck?

We need them on a common ground to greatest extent. The 7/way does it partially (trailer lights).

The RF Bond think of it (not accurate) as common voltage potential.

See K0BG on these.

(Edited post 51 above at end).
 

slowmover

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IMG_3570.jpeg

You may not need it.


The other test is a less than 3% Voltage Drop when the mic is keyed. 1/2V max. 13.8 to 13.3v, engine running with RPM high enough to have alternator kicked in).

This electrical strain reduction is why going to BATT is best (See K0BG on this). Clean, Quiet Power is the third leg of the stool.

.
 

slowmover

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Some pics of the install as work is underway. would be great. Help the next guy.

Where to route coax to get past headliner devices
is biggest. I’d assume it’ll go to B-pillar then to floor.

Convert QT60/AT-5555N2 for 11M

IMG_1749.jpeg



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