First time radio install help Chevy Truck

[qc]

Hi, I’m planning on installing FT-8900R with CR8900A Antenna in my 2004 Chevrolet Silverado Crew cab Z71 Truck I looking at the least amount of drilling possible. I was thinking of mounting the radio behind the rear driver side seat that also folds down. I was going to install it under the passers side seat but it looks like I have a heater vent there, my Truck also don’t have a center console does anyone know about mounts that would fit under center dashboard and now the wiring I do have the GM Mobile Radio Installation Guidelines I was going to order the Side terminal adapter package 1846855 and hook the positive lead auxiliary power terminal and the negative lead to the battery terminal. For the CR8900A antennal I was planning on left driver’s side hood fender I not sure if Diamond makes one I know ProFit makes one the AVANTPF any help tips would be greatly appreciated

Thanks

Shon

 

[wv8mat]

If it was me, mount the radio out of the way someplace, use the remote head kit. as for the power and gound, run it straigt to a relay and then straight to the battery, dont waste the time or money on anything else. the least amount of things involved the better. make sure you put some pics up of the whole install too. Antenna..... your going to have some people say one thing and others say another. its all what you want to do, but the top of the cab with a nmo mount is the best. but if you want to finder mount on they work great too. there are even thru glass mount antennas , some work some dont. dont skimp on quality to save a buck. hope this helps

 

[qc]

Hi, Thanks for the reply and the help I will make sure to post the pics

 

[WA4VBC]

On my 2009 Chevy truck, I ran the power to a 12 volt, 30 amp relay under the hood and then direct to the battery. You can buy taps at an auto suppy store or use crimp on lugs. The relay is switched by the ignition switch. I cut holes in the roof of the truck with an antenna hole saw, but a 3/4' metal hole saw will work. Used the MNO mounts. Actually, I cut 3 holes (VHF-UHF-GMRS). You can plug them with rubber 3/4" hole plugs when antennas are removed. Ran the coax down a side channel and nothing shows. Made a console mount for the radios out of plywood and painted it black. It extends up under the dash and to the front of the center factory console. Let us know how you do it. Good luck on the project. Sid. WA4VBC

 

[AK9R]

I cut holes in the roof of the truck with an antenna hole saw, but a 3/4' metal hole saw will work.

I've not been happy with cutting holes in sheet metal with a hole saw, however I recognize that most of the mobile antenna manufacturers (Larsen, Maxrad, etc.) sell hole saws that are specifically designed for this application. I think the difference is that the blade is fairly short and held pretty rigid by the arbor.

When I drilled all the holes for NMO mounts in my Ford Expedition, used a step drill like the Irwin Uni-bit. It did a nice job. Slow and careful is the word.

 

[conrad314]

I am planning on putting a FT 7900R in my 2004 Chevy Avalanche soon. Considering mounting the unit under the rear drivers seat and running the head unit up front somewhere. Since i have a scanner antenna on the drivers side fender I'm toying with the idea of removing my FM factory antenna and putting a 2m/70cm antenna on the passengers side fender (I like parking in the garage and have sirius radio, so who needs FM) Keep in mind your CR8900A will be 17" taller than my spectra. Good luck and lets see pictures!



WA4VBC,

How did you tie the relay into the ignition swithch?

 

[WA4VBC]

RE: Mycomment on the 3/4 regular hole saw I said would work. I don't recommend it but I did use it back in the days of very limited funds. I purchaed an antenna hole saw and it works much better and what I would recommend if cutting as few holes. It was what I used on the recent truck install. Be sure to measure twice and don't hit one of the roof braces that run across the top, saw that done one time and is messy. Sid.

 

[qc]

Hi, Thanks everyone for the help I was also thinking of using the K400C Diamond mount on the rear driver side door, Also the problem I’m having is with the power wiring I can't find the Firewall Grommet Hole for the driver side

Thanks

 

[WA4VBC]

I ran the wires thru the firewall using a hole where the factory wiring bundle has a grommet. Use something small and stiff like a section of coat-hanger and carefully push a new hole thru the grommet then pull your wire back thru. . I have done it many times and it seems to work well. To key the relay I tapped a fuse in the inside fuse box that was switched by the ignition. Sid.

 

[qc]

Hi, thanks I will look for that I also will look for the fuse box. I found a PowerWerx APO3 automatic shut off radio when the ignition is off. What you think about K400C Diamond mount on the rear driver side door I know the CR8900A fold over for garages also need to make sure the grounding is good on that Antenna

Thanks

Shon KJ6FNN

 

[990adv]

My installation.

I also have a 2004 Chevy truck. Mine does have the center console. This caused some install issues.

No way was I going to have radios mounted up on the dash. Not enough room to mount all the radios in the dash. Still a work in progress but here is what I did.

Mounted the main body of an Icom 2820 and Icom 7000 on plywood behind the rear seat. An antenna tuner for HF is back there also. I have a really thin Kenwood speaker mounted with sticky tape on the plastic cover area by the upper door lock area.A Radio Shack powered speaker for the HF audio. Now for the control heads I had to be more creative. My solution is not perfect, but seems the best option. I use a very heavy duty gooseneck mount that comes up from the passenger side of the center console. Up on the top I fashioned a bracket for both control heads and a HT. Have not done it yet but plan to put a CB in the dash in one of the open spots.

For power I went a little further than most. I use a yellow top Optima battery to start the truck then to a battery isolator then to a Stinger car audio battery. All Ham gear is hooked to the Stinger battery. I have some extra 12v outlets hooked to the Stinger also. Ran 6 gauge wire back to the rear units and use car audio type power connectors for everything.

Antennas were a bit of a compromise also. I have no problems drilling holes in the roof but just do not have the clearance in my garage. I do not want to put up and take down antennas every single time. I want the truck parked inside. So for the 2820 I use a special mount that goes on the opposite side from the am/fm antenna. It is a custom made for the truck mount that I found on the Wolcott CB site. Looks better than the standard L bracket. In the bed of the truck I have large aluminum side boxes. On the front driver side using an L bracket I have a mount for the HF antenna. On the rear passenger side I have another L mount for a 6m/2m/70cm antenna. The 2820 antenna is the only one that never comes off. Just use a Wilson mag mount on long trips for CB. No scanners yet in the truck(Uniden Home Patrol when available) but I am experimenting with this also. Looking to use the scanner antenna also as the antenna for the DTV tuner hooked up to the aftermarket am/fm/dvd audio system.

Currently the project is nearing completion. Once finished I plan to post pictures. Lots of little things to do still.

 

[N1BHH]

Take a look at all the installations you see here on this site to get good ideas of what other people have done. You are only limited by your imagination. Drill the hole in the center of the roof and you will be very happy. I recommend the antenna not be cowl mounted, get it away from all that motor/electronic noise. You'll be surprised how many people put their antenna there and then find out it was a bad idea. I have seen people put one there and change the location to the best (center of roof) and never did it again. The only situation I see against roof mounting is low garage clearance, in which case you could remove the antenna before garaging and put it back on later.

 

[davidgcet]

for power in a chevy we NEVER run to the battery anymore, those sidepost batteries are just too prone to corrosion and loose connections even with the sidepost adapters. we run to the power distro box under the hood, there are studs on it that are hot all the time, though sometimes you have to find the proper nut to fit it if nothing is attached there already. for ground we ground to the floor board. just scrape the paint away and use a star washer so it bites in good. if you desire to run the ground out under the hood, attach it to one of the factory ground strap points by the battery.

 

[ramal121]

for power in a chevy we NEVER run to the battery anymore, those sidepost batteries are just too prone to corrosion and loose connections even with the sidepost adapters. we run to the power distro box under the hood, there are studs on it that are hot all the time, though sometimes you have to find the proper nut to fit it if nothing is attached there already. for ground we ground to the floor board. just scrape the paint away and use a star washer so it bites in good. if you desire to run the ground out under the hood, attach it to one of the factory ground strap points by the battery.

Good way to run power. To expand, what I do, is take off the elbow brace over by the hood hinge (4 bolts).
You can then pop up the whole fuse box thingie. Run wires underneath and secure to existing harness. Then coming up to the feed stud is very easy.