Idiot moment - Stripped threads

[Colin9690]

It’s the little brass female piece, and my dumb arse stripped it out. My HT1550XLS.

Does anyone have any recommendations on how to fix this? Curious what materials I’d need to make sure it stays in place and doesn’t spin. And I will obviously find a new one before reinstalling it into the radio. 😉

I appreciate it!

 

[DeoVindice]

I'd use a helicoil.

 

[scanmanmi]

A friend used something like that on a stripped spark plug.

Heli-Coil® Wire Insert Systems | Screw Threaded Inserts | STANLEY® Engineered Fastening

Heli-Coil® Wire Insert Systems | Screw Threaded Inserts | STANLEY® Engineered Fastening

www.stanleyengineeredfastening.com

 

[mmckenna]

I'd probably try a tiny bit of JB Weld.

If that didn't work, recase it, that's pretty inexpensive with the overseas sourced case kits.

 

[RFI-EMI-GUY]

Is it a blind hole? If so, clean out any debris. Put a longish screw in the thread hole in the stud. Seal the threads with wax where they enter the stud and if the stud threads through, wax at the end of the thread. Get some JB Weld, mix it up and put a dab into the hole with a toothpick. Just enough to fill the gaps. Put the stud back in, center it and wait 24 hours.

 

[prcguy]

I'd probably try a tiny bit of JB Weld.

If that didn't work, recase it, that's pretty inexpensive with the overseas sourced case kits.

I also think JB Weld might be the best method. If you try it make sure the entire cavity on the radio and external threads of the insert are buried in JB Weld which will help resist pull out. I would also screw the insert onto a speaker mic then clamp that to the radio while the JB Weld cures which will help keep the correct thread alignment.

 

[ElroyJetson]

Recase the radio and be done with it. That's what I'd do.

 

[AM909]

IME, no amount of adhesive is going to support the amount of force it needs to support, at least not for more than the first few uses. Find a cheap but clean parts radio or, if you must, an after-market case kit, but some of those are pretty poorly made and require work to get things to fit.

 

[rf_patriot200]

Re-casing it would be your best bet.

 

[nhfdcadet]

VBLL makes really nice replacement housings.

 

[krokus]

Any updates? I have a similar issue, with some XPR radios.

 

[Colin9690]

Thank you everybody that contributed, I’m so sorry how late this reply is, I caught the Covids (😬) and i’ve been out of action for a minute.

Anyways, I put much thought into JB weld, which I’m very familiar using over the years, but I think I’m gonna go to the recase route. Just so my mind is at ease knowing I have a perfectly good set up now.

I’ve never had to do this before, but I’ll snoop around on eBay and see what they have in the way of cases for this radio. Thank you again, fellas.
@krokus

 

[Colin9690]

VBLL makes really nice replacement housings.

Thank you sir, very late but thanks I’ll check them out 👍

 

[rf_patriot200]

Thank you everybody that contributed, I’m so sorry how late this reply is, I caught the Covids (😬) and i’ve been out of action for a minute.

Anyways, I put much thought into JB weld, which I’m very familiar using over the years, but I think I’m gonna go to the recase route. Just so my mind is at ease knowing I have a perfectly good set up now.

I’ve never had to do this before, but I’ll snoop around on eBay and see what they have in the way of cases for this radio. Thank you again, fellas.
@krokus

kempwireless.com in Portland, Or might be able to help. they recase radios from agencies that trade them in and install new knobs, batteries, chargers and resell them. They might sell the Shells of radios too, but I never tried.

 

[AM909]

VBLL makes really nice replacement housings.

Some. I don't know about that particular radio.

Some of their parts don't fit the original parts well. You'll want to use the whole kit and not try to re-use any of the old parts.

 

[nhfdcadet]

https://www.mercari.com/us/item/m25087739728/?gclsrc=aw.ds&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=21931664282&utm_content=t0&adgroup=&network=x&device=c&merchant_id=154042365&product_id=m25087739728&product_id=&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAy8K8BhCZARIsAKJ8sfTT3urgwD9thjmI4N9vTTHnZRNMFnpAbEffQjewjjvQbcMT0iQkNw4aApvcEALw_wcB

 

[Colin9690]

Sorry to bring this old thread up, but I only recently started looking and it's damn impossible to find anyone selling housings for the 1550. The ones for the 1250 full keypad variant aren't compatible, if anyone is not aware.

 

[RFI-EMI-GUY]

JB Weld. Pretty easy if the brass ferrule has a blind hole, meaning no easy way for epoxy to foul the threads. Get a mating screw, a longish one. Cover its threads with wax. Put some JB Weld in the hole in plastic. Stick the ferrule with screw into the hole flush and square as original. Make sure no epoxy is spilling above the mating surface. Always good to dry fit and work out a way to clamp the part before committing to the glue process.

 

[Colin9690]

JB Weld. Pretty easy if the brass ferrule has a blind hole, meaning no easy way for epoxy to foul the threads. Get a mating screw, a longish one. Cover its threads with wax. Put some JB Weld in the hole in plastic. Stick the ferrule with screw into the hole flush and square as original. Make sure no epoxy is spilling above the mating surface. Always good to dry fit and work out a way to clamp the part before committing to the glue process.

Thank you, that is what I’m going to do. I appreciate all the input.

 

[merlin]

Priority 1 would be a case swap. #2, I would go with a stud and JB weld or Gorilla glue-epoxy.
Strippid from crossthreadding, you could try a bottom tap.
Stripped for over tightening, the stud Idea is easiest.
Pulled the brass from the case, #1 or 2 is whats left.