My New Antenna Tower

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davkenrem

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This past weekend I finished my antenna tower project which I started this summer.
I purchased two used towers from a farmer on Craigslist. They were on the ground so I did not need to unstack them. Only two sections were rusted to a point of being unusable. That left me with 4 ten foot sections, one eight and one five foot section to place in the ground.

I began by digging my base hole. 4ft deep, 3ft square. This took several days as down about 2ft I hit clay. Once dug, I built a form and set the 5ft section and 8ft section in and leveled then. I used 4 bags of gravel in the bottom for drainage and a re-bar basket for strength.

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A few weeks later I rented a towable concrete mixer with a yard and half of concrete in it and towed it home and poured the base.

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While waiting for the concrete to cure I set to work on cleaning up the tower sections. A light wire bushing removed the surface rust, then the sections were wiped down and sprayed with a rust stabilizing primer, then a heavy coat of Cold Galvanizing Paint followed by a coat of silver Rustoleum. They look almost new.

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Stacking day finally arrived. I rented a towable 42ft articulated boom lift and borrowed a friends gin pole and began the stack. I was surprised how easy this was to do by myself. I would mount the gin pole bracket, slide the pole up into place, pull up a section of tower within about 6 inches of where it needed to be and tie off the rope and easily set the sections. All 4 sections were up in less than an hour.

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A word about the lift. It was advertised as 47ft but it was more like 42ft. Consequently I was unable to get to the very top of my 48ft of tower. I had planned to mount my dual band 2m/440 antenna there but was forced to mount it on one of the side brackets. I had originally planned to rent a 65ft lift but it has not been available and with winter coming I wanted to get the antennas up before the snow and ice arrives. I will probably rework it in the spring.

I mounted 4 antennas at this time.
1.) Opek UVS-300 Dual Band Omni-Directional antenna 2m/440mhz
2.)Workman T601 25 - 1300 MHz General Coverage Scanner Antenna
3.)AntennaCraft HDX1000 VHF UHF HD TV Antenna ( for OTA HD TV)
4.)Winegard HD6010 Omnidirectional FM Antenna

I also have a 900mhz Omni that I wanted to mount but ran out of daylight, having to return the lift the following morning.


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I used galvanized unistrut for the brackets with 1" unistrut straps holding them to the tower. The masts are 1"and 1-1/4" rigid conduit. Coax for the scanner and dual band antennas is Times Microwave LMR-400, the TV and FM antenna used Quad Shield RG-6. All connections to the antennas were sealed with Liquid Tape and then wrapped with 3M Super 33 tape which was also used to secure the coax to the tower.


The finished product for now.

DSCF6120.jpg


I have 3 -5/8"x8' Ground rods driven that will be connected to the tower and I still need to run the coax into the house which will occur in the next few weeks. I took a couple of radios out to test with today. The dual band really "hears" I heard traffic on repeaters I have programmed that I never heard before. The discone allowed my 996t to pull in system several counties away. I'll post more photo of the shack when the cabling is done. I would also like to put a weather station and a remote camera up there too.
 

N5TWB

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I really don't want to be That Guy or Negative Nancy here but are you sure that tower was designed to be free-standing because it doesn't appear to be to me. If I'm wrong, so be it but I just thought you ought to consider that, especially since you say ice/snow/wind was a factor in getting the tower up at this time.
 

CYUL

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I really don't want to be That Guy or Negative Nancy here but are you sure that tower was designed to be free-standing because it doesn't appear to be to me. If I'm wrong, so be it but I just thought you ought to consider that, especially since you say ice/snow/wind was a factor in getting the tower up at this time.

Same here. I had a tower exactly like this one and it required bracing to the house. I placed the two side supports against the house and attached the braces there for maximum support. Please use extreme caution when working up on this tower!
 

davkenrem

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I really don't want to be That Guy or Negative Nancy here but are you sure that tower was designed to be free-standing because it doesn't appear to be to me. If I'm wrong, so be it but I just thought you ought to consider that, especially since you say ice/snow/wind was a factor in getting the tower up at this time.

Don't know, the guy I got it from had it free standing. What do you see that makes you think it was not designed to be free standing. Their are many tv towers of this type in my neighborhood that are free standing.

It appears to be an early American Towers version.

And I do not climb this.

Thanks
 

N5TWB

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Don't know, the guy I got it from had it free standing. What do you see that makes you think it was not designed to be free standing. Their are many tv towers of this type in my neighborhood that are free standing.

It appears to be an early American Towers version.

And I do not climb this.

Thanks

Most self-supporting towers will be tapered from the bottom to the top so the load is spread over a larger footprint with heavier/stronger tower sections at the bottom. Additionally, the concrete base will be wide and deep because it acts as a counter to the weight and wind loads from the tower/antennas. Contrast this description to what you have: narrow footprint, relatively small/shallow/lightweight concrete base, all sections of the tower are of the same construction and dimensions (no taper).

While you have relatively small antennas that don't have a large section for wind loading, your cross arm mounts increase it quite a bit. Without guying to take the forces of wind or ice load to the ground, it is all tranferred through the tower, its section connections, and mounting base. Simply stated, you have a large lever acting on a small anchor. Learn more about the forces involved with a visit to WikiPedia on the terms Moment and Torque. I'm sure you understand the concept of the weakest link in a chain.

It appears you are in a town of reasonable size. Did you get a permit to install the tower? Do you know if one is required? If required, did you have to submit any specifications or drawings? I don't think I would put a lot of confidence in the existence of other towers of similar construction in the neighborhood if the building inspector came calling. That might only require a phone call from your next door neighbor with a house in the fall radius of a tower failure.

Really good tower engineering info here: http://www.anwireless.com/
 
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davkenrem

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Most self-supporting towers will be tapered from the bottom to the top so the load is spread over a larger footprint with heavier/stronger tower sections at the bottom. Additionally, the concrete base will be wide and deep because it acts as a counter to the weight and wind loads from the tower/antennas. Contrast this description to what you have: narrow footprint, relatively small/shallow/lightweight concrete base, all sections of the tower are of the same construction and dimensions (no taper).

While you have relatively small antennas that don't have a large section for wind loading, your cross arm mounts increase it quite a bit. Without guying to take the forces of wind or ice load to the ground, it is all tranferred through the tower, its section connections, and mounting base. Simply stated, you have a large lever acting on a small anchor. Learn more about the forces involved with a visit to WikiPedia on the terms Moment and Torque. I'm sure you understand the concept of the weakest link in a chain.

It appears you are in a town of reasonable size. Did you get a permit to install the tower? Do you know if one is required? If required, did you have to submit any specifications or drawings? I don't think I would put a lot of confidence in the existence of other towers of similar construction in the neighborhood if the building inspector came calling. That might only require a phone call from your next door neighbor with a house in the fall radius of a tower failure.

Really good tower engineering info here: AN Wireless Tower Company, LLC - Self Supporting Wireless Communications Towers

Permits not required here.

I'm fairly sure this is an American Tower. http://www.amertower.com/pdf's/GCStowers.pdf

These towers listed in the PDF are designed to be free standing. The two towers had been standing for at least 10 yrs at 30 ft before the person I bought them from took them down. I'm not trying to be in denial but your right it is in fall radius of a neighbor. At this point I'm going to leave it up and see how it weathers the winter. I will also give my insurance company a call and ask about coverage.
 

N5TWB

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Permits not required here.

I'm fairly sure this is an American Tower. http://www.amertower.com/pdf's/GCStowers.pdf

These towers listed in the PDF are designed to be free standing. The two towers had been standing for at least 10 yrs at 30 ft before the person I bought them from took them down. I'm not trying to be in denial but your right it is in fall radius of a neighbor. At this point I'm going to leave it up and see how it weathers the winter. I will also give my insurance company a call and ask about coverage.

Please read the notice on the bottom left hand side of page 2 of that PDF document:

"Towers mounted on these bases must be bracketed or guyed."

I take that to mean all bases for the GCS series of towers require guying or bracketing of the tower.
 
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kb0nly

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Nice tower, but i will echo what the other guys said. NOT a freestanding tower. Thats all there is to it. Its very similar to Rohn 25G in strength and use. You can put up to 40ft of this type of tower in the air without guys, but it should be bracketed to the house at the midpoint or whatever you can accomplish.

I know of many towers exactly like yours, they were very popular around here in the 70's and 80's and many of them went up. Some even as late as the early nineties. Many, and i mean many, of them came down in ice storms in recent years, and they were mostly of the 40ft height with a 6-8ft mast and a single tv antenna on the top.

Now don't think im badmouthing your install, i'm not, just here to offer some advice as i have dealt with tv towers of this type many times, usually it involves a phone call asking how to fix a bent or leaning tower after a very windy day with ice load on it. And don't rely on your insurance unless its plenty hefty coverage, i have $8k in replacement cost on both towers plus $300k in damage to others property if either or both fell on something. What if someone parked a new car on the street and bam, lawsuit! The worst part is your in the same situation as me, no permit or regulations required to put up a tower, which means in the end your the sole responsibilty for its installation and maintenance. Nobody else can be blamed for it.

Those crossbars on there are going to load that tower more than you think, consider an ice storm, freezing rain buildup on them could double their size in no time and then you have larger areas of wind resistance to consider.

Good thing your not climbing it, and i would NEVER climb a tower of that nature. Love the rentable towable man lift, wish i had access to one like that around here! I have a guy that helps do the climbing, well a few actually, so we always have someone experienced on the ground and tower.

I will make some suggestions, and again im not nitpicking here or trying to say you did it wrong. Just some kind suggestions after seeing towers of this type fail many times and land on the neighbors house or car. It looks as if the tower is too far away for a bracket to the house in the fourth picture, so i would suggest a couple guys to the house. Go at roughly the 30ft level or just below your crossbraces and then run two guy wires out with about 90 degrees between them to anchor points on your house. Say off to two edges of the roof or even something like a tree, but keep the guys so that they are pulling towards your house. The reason being if the tower ever failed it will tend to fall parallel to those guy wires or back onto your own house, much better than falling on the neighbors by far!! A roof can be repaired, a relationship with a neighbor after a large lawsuit and legal battle can't. If nothing else you could built an elongated house bracket to go over to it, but it looks as if your too far away from the house for that. I would have installed it so that the tower was about 1ft from edge of the roof and then used a bracket under the eave into the side of the house.

Again to reiterate, these towers are NOT self supporting. I wouldn't put one up beyond 30ft without some type of support, a roof bracket or guying.

If you want to see self supporting go to my website in my signature...
 
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These guys are SO right, Davkenrem.

This type of tower needs to be guyed. Also,while you're at it, take a drill and drill weep holes in the bottom of your tower leg so that moisture can drain out.
I can tell you, as a professional tower hand that you WILL, at some point, have to do something on the top of that tower.
I don't want you to feel like you're being ganged up on. I really do hope you have a sturdy tower for a long time. As such, there are a few details that will help with that.
the guy wires and weep holes are 2 of them.

warmest regards,

Elliott
 

davkenrem

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Guys thanks for the advice. I will look in to guying the tower to my roof and will drill the weep holes tomorrow. Again thanks for the advice.
 

davkenrem

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Please read the notice on the bottom left hand side of page 2 of that PDF document:

"Towers mounted on these bases must be bracketed or guyed."

I take that to mean all bases for the GCS series of towers require guying or bracketing of the tower.

I believe this is referring to the bases illustrated, the Drive in base, the Ground foundation base w/ hinges, the hinged base and the roof base. The very first paragraph reads in part" ... trouble free tower which will withstand high velocity winds without guy wires."

Not trying to argue, just clarify and I will take the advice and guy the tower to the roof.
 

mgolden2

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Wirelessly posted (Mozilla/5.0 (iPod; U; CPU iPhone OS 4_1 like Mac OS X; en-us) AppleWebKit/532.9 (KHTML, like Gecko) Version/4.0.5 Mobile/8B117 Safari/6531.22.7)

Wow......beautiful! Isnt craigslist great?!
 

killmoles

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David,

While your tower looks nice, and many do stand like that for a long time, I have to agree with the others that say it isn't supposed to.

Yours looks like a single bolt design, which would make it more like the one in this document, which says:

"Engineered to be bracketed or guyed only"

"Contact your American Tower Company representative for complete loading and design specifications."

http://www.amertower.com/pdf's/AT_special_tower.pdf
 

n8emr

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What do you see that makes you think it was not designed to be free standing. Their are many tv towers of this type in my neighborhood that are free standing.

It appears to be an early American Towers version.

Its a rohn 25 style tower, They are not rated for free standing above 20ft. With those antenna arms you have a big sail area up high. Its not going to come tumbling down, but I would eye on it after a good blow.
 
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