O5 --> O3 XTL5000

[XTS5000wellesleywv]

I hope everyone is having a good start to Thanksgiving week.

I have a 110W VHF XTL5000 Remote Mount O5 configuration (yes I know there is no such thing as a 110w dash mount) that I am hoping to switch to a O3 HHCH. In the CPS, I can see that my XTL is configured for "O5/O3" so I was assuming I could simply just unplug the O3, hook my speaker up to the accessory port cable that I have (I beleive it is HMN4044- I know it is the right cable as it works perfecly with the same O3 on my other 110w VHF DEK) and be good to go.

Unfortunately, I get the green power-on light, and then nothing.

As I mentioned, this same O3 head works perfectly on the other DEK, but not on this one. Does anyone know of any additional changes I need to make in the CPS to enable the O3 HHCH?

Thank you all so much!

 

[MTS2000des]

Firmware mismatch, your head doesn't like the HOST firmware it's seeing, If you let it sit there, does it go into flashzap and try to ingest the HOST firmware?

 

[XTS5000wellesleywv]

As an additional note: I just hooked up the other DEK to my O5 Head: works perfectly

 

[XTS5000wellesleywv]

Firmware mismatch, your head doesn't like the HOST firmware it's seeing, If you let it sit there, does it go into flashzap and try to ingest the HOST firmware?

what do you mean by sit there? As in sit there powered off?

 

[XTS5000wellesleywv]

I can get it into CH test mode but it shuts off after 2-3 seconds

 

[a417]

how long have you let it sit there with the power on? Sitting there with the power off would akin to leaving it on the shelf in a box.

 

[XTS5000wellesleywv]

how long have you let it sit there with the power on? Sitting there with the power off would be fruitless.

The issue is it won't power on: the power-on green LED turns on for a few seconds, then shuts off, and the sreen remains black.

 

[a417]

Well you did 3 posts prior ask if you should let it sit there with the power off, that's what I was referring to.

what are you using the DEK for?

 

[XTS5000wellesleywv]

Well you did 3 posts prior ask if you should let it sit there with the power off, that's what I was referring to.

what are you using the DEK for?

Sorry- i meant brick, not DEK. Thanks!

 

[a417]

yeah, lets not make this any more confusing.

Do you have matching TIBs on the radio decks?

 

[XTS5000wellesleywv]

yeah, lets not make this any more confusing.

Do you have matching TIBs on the radio decks?

yes- exactly the same. O5 works on both, O3 only works on 1

 

[a417]

Have you tried swapping the TIBs with the wire & control head, or are you just swapping everything distal to the plug?


what FW and CH versions do you have on all your hardware?

 

[XTS5000wellesleywv]

I have not tried swapping the TIbs with the wire and control head: I'll give that a go now.

let me get back to you on the FW & CH: I know that the O3 head when hooked up to the radio that it DOES NOT work with indicated R15.00.00

The O5 ont he same brick indicated R17.00.00

Brick that only works with O5:
HOST: R100001


Brick that works with both (Green on the O5)
HOST: R140003

 

[a417]

I have not tried swapping the TIbs with the wire and control head: I'll give that a go now.
<snip>

Brick that only works with O5:
HOST: R100001


Brick that works with both (Green on the O5)
HOST: R140003

Save your time with the TIB swapping, that's likely the ticket

99.44% sure the issue is that 10.0.01 FW in the O5 only unit. I can't remember where I saw it, but I'm fairly confident that the O3 requires something newer than your 10.0x. My faded memory is saying 12.0.x, but it clearly doesn't work with your 10, and it def works with your 14...so I'd start by bumping that up to match the 14 and see if it now works.

 

[XTS5000wellesleywv]

Even more strange than that:

I just tried turning on the O3 with the ignition cable attached to my power supply in the shop and it worked! This wasn't required to do before on the other brick through- not sure why that is

 

[a417]

Even more strange than that:

I just tried turning on the O3 with the ignition cable attached to my power supply in the shop and it worked! This wasn't required to do before on the other brick through- not sure why that is

Ok so you might also have a power supply or wiring issue. Work slowly, take notes, and compare before & afters when you are chasing this type of convoluted problem.

Good luck, warrior!

 

[XTS5000wellesleywv]

Ok so you might also have a power supply or wiring issue. Work slowly, take notes, and compare before & afters when you are chasing this type of convoluted problem.

Good luck, warrior!

much appreciated! The strangest part of this is that one brick only works with the O3 head if hooked up to the poer supply, and the gnition cable is connected. The other works without the ignition cable (or speaker for that matter), and works in the car. Thanks for all of the help!

 

[a417]

I'm going to laugh when you say that one radio was programmed for ign sense or something like that...

This is why I bring all my installs (every wiring harness I make) to a minimum level of connectivity (every radio gets ign sense pin, serial + / -, speaker + / - and at least one GPIO pin) brought out to the accessible service point. Makes this problem much easier to spot.

 

[XTS5000wellesleywv]

I'm going to laugh when you say that one radio was programmed for ign sense or something like that...

This is why I bring all my installs (every wiring harness I make) to a minimum level of connectivity (every radio gets ign sense pin, serial + / -, speaker + / - and at least one GPIO pin) brought out to the accessible service point. Makes this problem much easier to spot.

Lesson learned!! Thanks so much for your help! I’m sure this is exactly what it was; don’t have my programming cable with me so I’ll have to check that later

 

[a417]

Lesson learned!! Thanks so much for your help! I’m sure this is exactly what it was; don’t have my programming cable with me so I’ll have to check that later

Let me know if that's what it was.

A good lesson is to bring everything up to a standard level of fitment.

1. I bring all my radios up to a known good firmware level (or in this case with the XTLs - the last. In the XTLs I make sure that I match up the control head versions as well)
2. I wire all my accessory port pigtails the same way (at least on the output end) I give myself access to the serial lines, ign sense, speaker and a single GPIO (to start).
3. I place programming pigtails where appropriate on remote mounts. Remote mount can be in the trunk, but I want to be sitting in my comfy heated seat when I have to program it.
4. I standardize my personal codeplug layouts.
5. I program 99% of my physical buttons the same way.

My minimum standards level would have caught what you found in #2.

Glad you (probably) have it sorted!