Pro 2006 question

918Dave

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Hello group. While my unit is apart awaiting an EL display panel part, I thought I'd also try for the 'squelch hysteresis' mod. I know it's R152 that I need to replace. It's supposed to be on the underside of the main linear board. I've not found it anywhere else. Would this be the main linear board, with the resistor on the underside of it?20251130_152545.jpg
 

Ubbe

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It's actually on the top side of the board, right next to IC2 TK10420 pin 12-13.

It's a resistor that goes to ground when the squelch opens and will reduce the signal to the IC so it will think that the noise got lower and will keep the squelch open for longer when the signal goes weaker. If you remove that resistor completely there will be no hysteresis at all, that some scanners use, so you could try that first. Or that R152 value of 33k (333 marking for SMD or orange-orange-orange) can be replaced by 68k-100k to get a lower hysteresis, that actually are bit too high in the Pro2006. I might try this on my own Pro2006.

I did this kind of modification to a police scanner that had no hysteris at all and could sound like a stuttering machine gun at some times.

/Ubbe
 

N8YX

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It's actually on the top side of the board, right next to IC2 TK10420 pin 12-13.

It's a resistor that goes to ground when the squelch opens and will reduce the signal to the IC so it will think that the noise got lower and will keep the squelch open for longer when the signal goes weaker. If you remove that resistor completely there will be no hysteresis at all, that some scanners use, so you could try that first. Or that R152 value of 33k (333 marking for SMD or orange-orange-orange) can be replaced by 68k-100k to get a lower hysteresis, that actually are bit too high in the Pro2006. I might try this on my own Pro2006.

I did this kind of modification to a police scanner that had no hysteris at all and could sound like a stuttering machine gun at some times.

/Ubbe
Ubbe,

How did you implement this in a receiver which wasn't equipped with hysteresis squelch? I have a couple R-5000s whose AM/FM squelch absolutely sucks. Probably do similar to their companion TS-440S transceivers too.

Keeping this on topic, I have 4 Pro-2006s and their squelch circuits seem to work very well. Perhaps a production change at some point? Mine are a mix of -145 and -145As.
 

consys

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Never thought about the squelch mod. But if i did I'd be tempted to put a pot on it & make it adjustable. Wonder if anyone ever did it that way.
 

kc2asb

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Keeping this on topic, I have 4 Pro-2006s and their squelch circuits seem to work very well. Perhaps a production change at some point? Mine are a mix of -145 and -145As.
FWIW, my Pro-2006 is an early production unit (think 8A0 code) from 1990. I never had any issues with the squelch. Not so for the eaerlier Pro-2002 I got in a trade.
 

918Dave

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I came across the squelch hysteresis mod in a Bill Cheek modification book. Didn't trust myself to do it. I did do the display modification with an EL strip on one Pro 2006. The other unit is with a trusted scanner repair service in New York who is performing the mod and bringing the unit up to spec as best as can be done, checking solder joints, etc.
 

Ubbe

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How did you implement this in a receiver which wasn't equipped with hysteresis squelch? I have a couple R-5000s whose AM/FM squelch absolutely sucks.

For the R5000 FM squelch, that usually also are used as a squelch in AM mode, it takes the audio at the left part of the schematic and filter it to only use the higher frequencies of the audio where no speech frequencies are present and then turn it into a positive DC voltage.

That IC7 has 3.6 volt at its negative input, and that voltage change with the squelch knob, with a full carrier without any noise but when the noise level increase that 3.6V will increase above 4.3V that are the voltage at its + input and will switch its output to negative that will mute the audio. That R223 will force the 4.3V + input voltage to go more negative, making the difference to the - input even greater requiring the - signal to drop even more, a less noisy signal, until it will switch its output again that makes the hysteres level.

Making R223 lower in value, maybe 1.8M will create a bigger distance between open and close of the squelch. Reducing R251 in value will create less hysteres and bridging it to 0 ohm will be no hysteres at all. Replacing that 2.2k R251 with a 33k potentiometer will make it possible to adjust the hysteres to your liking for different modulation modes. There's a VR3 trim pot at 33k for SSB mode to match SSB squelch hysteres to the AM/FM squelch.

It already have a hysteres using that R223 but high ohm resistors have a tendency of going even higher in value if they are very old and will then loose the hysteres function in this squelch circuit.

1768520711074.png

/Ubbe
 

918Dave

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For the Pro 2006, the 100k resister was supposed to be the perfect 'sweet spot' when performing the mod. Can't wait to get my unit back to compare to the other radio.
 
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