R-71a failing

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DaveNF2G

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I decided to go ahead and solder in the regulator. A week is long enough. :)

Now, I'm trying to reassemble the receiver and I have two connections that I cannot make.

There is a 2-wire connector from the Matrix Board at P3 that is supposed to go "TO REG CONNECTOR P1". I cannot find this connection point. The Regulator Board has no connectors. There are some previously unused wires hanging around, but I can't find a 2-pin empty socket anywhere.

I also have a 9-pin connector on a cable coming from the SW1 Unit that appears to be P2 and is supposed to go to is supposed to go to J16 on the Matrix Board. It has the correct number of wires but is about 2-3 inches too short to make that connection. P1 is a different size, so I haven't gotten them mixed up.

Icom only labeled the connectors on the main wiring harness, and most of the sockets on the boards. The rest is mainly, "does it fit and does it reach?"
 

ridgescan

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Don't know if you have the service manual-hope this helps. To my eye P2 goes to J8 and P3 goes to J9?? EDIT: then I see the other part that says P2 goes to logic unit J7, and P3 goes to logic unit J4.

 
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DaveNF2G

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Those connections are fine on mine. The ones with which I am having trouble are:

Upper right of board as seen in picture, P3 near set screw on board, two wires extend off right edge, where it says, "TO REG CONNECTOR P1". I don't know where "REG CONNECTOR" is.

Lower right of picture, connector labeled P2, connects to J16 on board, labeled "TO SW1 UNIT". The wires from the switch unit that I have do not reach far enough for me to plug that connector into J16. I can find no other 9-pin connector that I might have swapped. The SW1 connectors P1 and P3 are identified and plugged in where they belong, and neither one has 9 pins. There are no other wires coming off SW1.
 

ridgescan

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Dave the only thing I could think to do was take pics of all the connectors in mine so you can trace the colors on yours. If you need a video of the internals I can undo her again.












sorry about the one blurry pic.
 
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DaveNF2G

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a>


This one is closest to what I need to see. A shot down onto the Matrix Board looking toward what would be the front of the receiver would be most useful. I need to see where the two cables coming off the pushbutton board are going, and hopefully where the other 2-wire cable from P3 goes as well.

(There is supposed to be an image link embedded above, but I am not seeing it.)
 
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DaveNF2G

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photos

I hope these will help to clarify the situation. I have to go out shortly, so I might have to add more pics later.

71a1.jpg

71a2.jpg

71a4.jpg
 
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DaveNF2G

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I disconnected and removed the matrix board and started over with some printouts from the service manual (much easier than scrolling around a computer screen) and some enlarged images of the various boards in the receiver. I finally got it all back together.

However, the repair failed. When I turn the receiver on, the S-meter now goes to full deflection (it was only half before) and the display stays dark (it lit up before). Evidently I'm worse off now than when I started.

Likely culprits are the new DC-DC converter - either the wrong part or oriented incorrectly (I did ask) - or some jumpers are misrouted. Given the various sizes of connectors and lengths of internal cables, this seems unlikely, especially as I was able to identify the various boards correctly with the diagrams.
 
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DaveNF2G

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Finally, my R-71a is repaired and working! Another owner on the Yahoogroup sent a photo of his replacement DC-DC converter placed correctly on the diagram. I redid my connections and all is well now.

The only flaws it has are a replacement lamp for the S-meter that is a tad too bright, and a blown speaker. I can tolerate one and work around the other.
 

kruser

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Finally, my R-71a is repaired and working! Another owner on the Yahoogroup sent a photo of his replacement DC-DC converter placed correctly on the diagram. I redid my connections and all is well now.

The only flaws it has are a replacement lamp for the S-meter that is a tad too bright, and a blown speaker. I can tolerate one and work around the other.

I wish I still had the Mouser info but that has been years ago now.
I'd found a nice yellower color extra wide angle LED that worked fantastic in my R7000, R71A and even my R9000 plus the dimmer worked evenly with the other control lighting in the R9000 and the ELD display's in the R7000 and R71A.
I had to add a decent high ohm resistor to drop the voltage enough for the LED but it was an easy calculation.

My first attempt used an LED that was more of a 'spot' beam an resulted in a bright spot in the center of the meter. I finally found a model shaped more like a T4 or T3 size LED that even fit the rubber grommet well. It had a much wider output and lit the entire meter very evenly and nice an bright but not overly bright.
I don't run my R7000 or R71A in the High brightness position as I don't know if the vacuum type LED display lighting used in those radios fails over time and I know finding a new display would be next to impossible so I usually run the lighting on low. My radio bench is dark anyway so low works out about perfect.
The R9000 uses all LED lighting from the factory except the CRT and the S-Meter backlight which I'd changed to LED from the day I bought it.
I also have several spare CRT's in case that fails but mine has not burned an image into it and can still be turned up very bright independently from the other lighting. I keep saying I'm going to swap out the CRT with an small LCD panel but never have. I always figured I can use an external CRT if the internal ever fails along with all my spares.

An wide angle warm white color temp LED works very well in the R71A though if you ever get around to changing it out.
Even if I did have the original Mouser part number, chances are good that they no longer sell that model anyway but they do have tons to chose from. Maybe someone that has done one of those model receivers recently will chime in with a modern part number.
It's probably the easiest part to change in the entire radio!

Did you swap out the ram board with a non-volatile model so you don't loose the OS memory if the coin cell backup fails?
The R71A has that problem but the R7000 used a different board that did not have that problem if you ever purchase the matching R7000 to go along with your R71A!

I re-capped both of mine some time back and they work like new although digital signals have really slowed down my use of the R7000.
It's still fun to turn a large and real tuning knob though! I use the R7000 mainly for rail and air monitoring and then general tuning when looking for new digital signals.

I also have the remote control for my R7000 which is fun.
I moved the only speech board I had into the R71A but never did add the computer control into the R71A as it looked complicated compared to the CI-V TTL interface used in all the other models.

The R71's are fun radios.
I did change the AM filter for one that gave me a much cleaner sounding audio for the AM broadcast band. I think that was about the only thing I did not like when I bought it. AM broadcast was 'muddy' sounding too my ears.
SSB and other mode reception was great though.
I do have other radios that have more control over filters and many other options but I always go back to using the R71A.

Glad you figured out the problem and were able to get it all going!
It should give you several years of enjoyment!

Swap that ram board though if that has not been done yet. It's an easy swap but most require two solder pads be soldered together for the model radio it is going in. The new boards also give you an extended tuning range. Some of the new range is not useable or is but with reduced sensitivity. Some ram boards still use a coin cell but it only backs up the memory channels while the small area used for the OS is now in a non-volatile section of the boards eeprom.
Almost a plug and play board except for the solder pads that must be soldered together so the board knows what radio it is going into.

If that has not been done in yours, several sell them but a company name PIEXX comes to mind. I think they sold several accessories for that era radio.

And as I think you found out, one must be careful when working inside as the wiring was mostly external between the boards and was/is fragile!

Luckily you can find nice quality PDF versions of the service manual though. I took close up pictures of mine before I dug into the insides. Those came in handy when a wire would break!
Then the fact that most of the radio's from that era used standard thru hole components really helps should something fail. Almost everything in that radio can be replace with components still readily found today.
Maybe the processor and display logic components would be impossible to find but most of the other items can be found including RF/IF components even if you need to 'roll your own'.
Can's and coils can usually be salvaged from other old radios and even chips used in the IF stage can usually be found as well.
I can't recall any sudden failures of things like the processor. If it did fail, it was almost always user error by the person attempting repair or a nearby lightning strike.

Have fun with it now that it is up and running!
 

dkf435

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To add the CI-V computer control to a stock R71a you need to get the UX-14 CI-IV / CI-V converter. There is one for sale on Ebay right now.

When Kuni was clearing out stuff when he shut down his Icom service, I picked up a spare UX-14 and some other Icom parts handhelds.

Have a set of Icom R71A and R7000A both with IR remote controls, speech boards, computer control, and CK70 DC kits. Also have the R72A and R7100A set but that is a different series.

David
 
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DaveNF2G

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I did replace the RAM board, although I did not hook up the wiring harness for the expanded memories. I also have the CI-V converter, and a matching R-7000. :)

I don't really want to disassemble the R71a again if I can help it, but if it becomes necessary, then I will also consider replacing the S-meter lamp.
 

kruser

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I did replace the RAM board, although I did not hook up the wiring harness for the expanded memories. I also have the CI-V converter, and a matching R-7000. :)

I don't really want to disassemble the R71a again if I can help it, but if it becomes necessary, then I will also consider replacing the S-meter lamp.

Yep, I agree. I'd only open it back up if something else fails or your meter lamp burns out!

I'd opened one of mine so many times that I had to replace all the case screws even though I had the correct Japanese driver for the screw heads.

That was the R7000. I'd bought it from a school teacher whose husband had passed away.
She just threw the radio and remote and cords in a huge cardboard box three times the size of the radio with no packing at all around any of it. Needless to say, it beat itself to death as it slid around inside the huge box during the trip it took to get here from Maine to Missouri.
The first bad sign was the N jack sticking through a huge hole it made in the side of the box!
When I opened the box, the entire rear panel was bent to heck from the stress placed on the N jack but amazingly there was no front panel damage other than one bent control shaft that was easy to straighten.

The remote control another very sad case. It was broken into about 25 pieces. Luckily the actual board did not crack at any carbon button locations but did crack several copper traces. I was able to solder bridge the broken copper traces and then hold the remotes housing together with scotch tape and super glue while I epoxied it properly. I also had to make a set of contacts for one end of the batteries. That part must have fallen out of the hole the antenna connecter punched through the box.

She shipped it via USPS so I may have been lucky as I don't think they toss packages around nearly as bad as UPS and FedEx are know to do!

All in all, the radio ended up all working very well and alignment was not even far out.
I bought the R71A a couple weeks later from another person and they packed it in its original Icom box inside another really heavy duty box.

For the R7000, I had to remove several of the boards so I could get large tools on the rear chassis with enough leverage to straighten it back out. I learned a LOT about the R7000 just from repairing the shipping damage and never opened a service manual until it was time to power it up and start checking voltages in case there were more hidden board cracks.

It took a while as I wanted to do it right but all in all, it ended up being a fun repair!

Glad to hear your ram board has been upgraded! And then of course your problem solving and repair of the DC to DC convertor and whatever else you all found.
It's a good feeling when things start working!!
 
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DaveNF2G

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Well, I guess somebody is going to have to disassemble my radio again. Not me, though.

Turns out it's pretty deaf. Does anyone know of a shop or individual that does reliable service on these classics that might be within a day's drive of Albany, NY? I don't want to ship it, and if the price is right, I would have the same individual go over my R-7000 as well.
 

kruser

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Well, I guess somebody is going to have to disassemble my radio again. Not me, though.

Turns out it's pretty deaf. Does anyone know of a shop or individual that does reliable service on these classics that might be within a day's drive of Albany, NY? I don't want to ship it, and if the price is right, I would have the same individual go over my R-7000 as well.

What's it doing or not doing short of sensitivity problems?

I seem to recall the antenna inputs used a small lamp for basic static discharge (actually overload) on both the 50 ohm and 450 ohm inputs.
I don't think it was a neon type lamp either but I recall those lamps failing and that caused poor sensitivity problems when they went open from a nearby lightning strike or a high power signal near you.

I could have my models mixed up also but I'm pretty sure it was the R71 series they used those lamps in and they did cause problems as it did not take much to take one out.
If my models are correct, I think you shorted across the lamp on the input you are using and if normal reception returned, that was the culprit.
If the lamp is a neon type lamp then it should be wired from antenna line to ground and act as a spark gap so you would need to remove one of the leads to confirm the lamp is not shorted.
I'm thinking they used them in series with the antenna line though and one is basically just inside the radio as one of the first components soldered to the PL259 jack (or spring loaded high impedance jacks) if my memory is worth a darn!

If my models are correct, I think those lamps would go open on people that lived near a high power AM station or any high power signal for that matter or had a nearby lightning strike.
Both inputs used the same lamp and the high impedance input may have had two lamps but I think they used the chassis as one side of the high impedance input so there should only be one lamp there also.
I don't recall the value of the lamps but I know I've seen it posted in either an Icom service bulletin or a general site geared towards repairing these old radios.
I forget if they said to replace them with a same wattage lamp or if they advised replacing them with a set of reversed polarity small signal diodes like 1N4148's or whatever those common diodes were numbered.

Then who knows, I may be thinking of the R7000 but it does not have the high impedance input and I do recall that being in the radio that used lamps to open the circuit until replaced. I think they protected a set of FETs at the 1st RF amp stage. I recall it being an easy test as you just needed to short the lamp and see if signal was restored.

Good Luck and please do report your findings after you get it going again!
 
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