Don_Burke
Member
The whine on transmit certainly is not coming through the antenna.
I expect the filter on the power line will solve your problem.
I expect the filter on the power line will solve your problem.
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Radio/Acceleration whine?
- Thread starter ryan81986
- Start date
- Status
i took the noise away when i ran a fuse block under the hood just for my radios. i know its over kill but i also ran the ground out under the hood and had a nice shinny metal spot to put the wires and that took care of my problem.
pyeman99
Member
The way we have always be told at work is to run straight to the battery with fuse in each wire,yes the ground side also.If the main ground fails without a fuse it will try to grd via your scanner/radio,I have seen a number of bad installs with fire damage.Do it right.mattgregg110 said:
It will nearly always stop alternator whine too.
nfd_rescue
Member
I connect a fuse block to the battery on my installs. It makes it a lot easier to diagnose an electrical problem later on. The last vehicle I set up had two fuse blocks; one for the communications equipment, and one for lighting. If any one thing stops working, I can tell where it went bad by looking at which fuse is blown. Another good thing to remember is to calculate the amount of power that is going to be needed by the radio(s) and use the correct diameter power and ground wires.
RolnCode3
Member
I dunno why it would make a difference, but they mean that as the wires run they twist around each other.pfish said:
N
N_Jay
Guest
OK, the problem here is people confuse RF noise with audio whine caused by the alternator.
The whine you are getting is NOT RF (Radio Frequency) noise at all. RF Protection will not help at all.
You are hearing the AUDIO frequency variations from the alternator riding on the power lead.
The best way to get rid of this is to take power directly from the battery. You still need to have a fuse, and it should be mounted as close to the battery as practical.
If you also get the ground from the battery directly, this lead needs a fuse also.
If you still have the whine, then you need to add an "Alternator Whine" filter. This is large choke (not to be confused with small ferrite beads used for RF filtering). The "Secondary of the transformer" trick is just using the transformer winding as the choke.
The twisting the power wires is mostly for RF protection. It will also help with STRONG electromagnetic low frequency fields like 60 Hz around AC power equipment. The whine you are hearing is NOT a strong enough field to be picked up this way, so while it is a good general practice will not address your problem.
I hope this helps clear up some of the misconceptions people have.
The whine you are getting is NOT RF (Radio Frequency) noise at all. RF Protection will not help at all.
You are hearing the AUDIO frequency variations from the alternator riding on the power lead.
The best way to get rid of this is to take power directly from the battery. You still need to have a fuse, and it should be mounted as close to the battery as practical.
If you also get the ground from the battery directly, this lead needs a fuse also.
If you still have the whine, then you need to add an "Alternator Whine" filter. This is large choke (not to be confused with small ferrite beads used for RF filtering). The "Secondary of the transformer" trick is just using the transformer winding as the choke.
The twisting the power wires is mostly for RF protection. It will also help with STRONG electromagnetic low frequency fields like 60 Hz around AC power equipment. The whine you are hearing is NOT a strong enough field to be picked up this way, so while it is a good general practice will not address your problem.
I hope this helps clear up some of the misconceptions people have.
RolnCode3
Member
I took an automotive accessories installation class a few months ago, and we talked about issues like this. It impacts stereo installations a lot (which I have no interest in) so I didn't worry about it too much. Obviously, though, it can impact radio installs.
The MECP basic installers manual also talks about it:
Ground loops
It's where there is more than one ground path, and the differences in current potential of each path create a voltage differential.
"This can allow alternator while to enter the system, as well as other problems."
The MECP basic installers manual also talks about it:
Ground loops
It's where there is more than one ground path, and the differences in current potential of each path create a voltage differential.
"This can allow alternator while to enter the system, as well as other problems."
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