Regency TMR 8H needs help.

[jjhendo]

I got this off eBay and it was sort of in tougher shape than I thought and I think someone tinkered with it. I'm not much of an electonics guy but I'm trying to get it going.
Pic 1. One bulb was out, so I tried to take it out to see what kind. I didn't realize they were soldered in(?) and I messed that little wire going across and now no bulbs go on. I can't see how to access these..
Pic 2. I think the last owner changed out the on&off/volume switch because, as hard as I try, the volume works buy it doesn't switch on/off. The squelch kinda works but it's sitting in there loose.
Pic 3. The speaker works but it makes a loud hum when scanning. Could I just solder in another 4 inch 1.5W 3.2Ω?
Sorry if any of these are dumb questions. I am sort of a dummy but trying to learn.

 

[KCA6YU]

I have that same model with burned out bulbs also. I didnt think the bulbs were soldered in. As for the on/off problem, getting a new potentiometer will take care of that, as for the speaker, you can try attaching another speaker, but the hum might be caused by something else.

 

[pro92b]

The owners manual and service manual are both available at Regency Documentation.

The bulbs are type number 53. They have a bayonet base and are not soldered in.

The speaker itself will not cause hum. The filter capacitor in the power supply may need to be replaced.

 

[jjhendo]

I have that same model with burned out bulbs also. I didnt think the bulbs were soldered in. As for the on/off problem, getting a new potentiometer will take care of that, as for the speaker, you can try attaching another speaker, but the hum might be caused by something else.

Anyway I can determine what kind of potentiometer? Thanks.

 

[jjhendo]

The owners manual and service manual are both available at Regency Documentation.

The bulbs are type number 53. They have a bayonet base and are not soldered in.

The speaker itself will not cause hum. The filter capacitor in the power supply may need to be replaced.

The owners manual and service manual are both available at Regency Documentation.

The bulbs are type number 53. They have a bayonet base and are not soldered in.

The speaker itself will not cause hum. The filter capacitor in the power supply may need to be replced.

Is there a way to fix the wire back there? Looks like some missing. Filter capacitor will be a new one for me, but I'll try. Thanks!

 

[KCA6YU]

Anyway I can determine what kind of potentiometer? Thanks.

Take out the old one, and it should say ohm and watt value.
These guys here might be what your looking for... https://www.amazon.com/TWTADE-Singl...off+control+potentiometer,aps,138&sr=8-2&th=1

 

[KCA6YU]

This might be helpful also... http://www.n4mw.com/Regency/tmrxhsm.pdf

 

[wtp]

the old on-off volume controls had a click to them, does it click anymore ?
and who turns a scanner off ?

Audio Output (3.2 Speaker) SCANNER (TMR-8H) 3 Watts @ 10%, or less, distortion; 5 Watts, maximum.
so it would be a 4 inch square speaker at 3.2 ohms and 5 watts.
but that is not the cause of the hum. this is just if you want to replace the 50 year old speaker.

 

[jjhendo]

Take out the old one, and it should say ohm and watt value.
These guys here might be what your looking for... https://www.amazon.com/TWTADE-Single-Linear-Potentiometers-Aluminum/dp/B07FKGGLFR/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3F57L9QH8UW5W&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.fEPJ6LtO8n5w9mRUfUjXjLuZfg9j8yD_tVY92hlhlTmRom3-hN22S-TXfYBTSeS2lZZx7L4KkTbY3xPZXAUi7-KIF2gYDCaZGGTgim8A7gBXZLBp_SUY0nIUgBusRBLJ34OD8yXmosI7TobNZMiCR6Y8uL5ZkrhoYDlYisjIaavEFobLA3UxWUu6vVyDU4FWnhKsAmG23DMAFWQlOSTTr2J20mNGqkO3sOPamdSuQQg.Y9zcB1s0zaDHvA_OCMOJGpRtNDDStIuI1Z5CrPXUM08&dib_tag=se&keywords=volume+on+off+control+potentiometer&qid=1755984399&sprefix=volume+on+off+control+potentiometer,aps,138&sr=8-2&th=1

Thanks. Looks like I need one that's shaped like a D at the end for the know. I'll check out the ohms..

 

[jjhendo]

the old on-off volume controls had a click to them, does it click anymore ?
and who turns a scanner off ?

Audio Output (3.2 Speaker) SCANNER (TMR-8H) 3 Watts @ 10%, or less, distortion; 5 Watts, maximum.
so it would be a 4 inch square speaker at 3.2 ohms and 5 watts.
but that is not the cause of the hum. this is just if you want to replace the 50 year old speaker.

It does not. I've turned it to where I was worried I'd break it. Guess they never wanted to turn it off! Ha. So that hum most likely is the filter capacitor? Anything else?

 

[wtp]

if i recall from high school 50 years ago,
there are two kinds of controls, one is linear and the other is volume or something like that.
so you can measure the two on the outside, but the 'wiper' can change resistance quickly or slowly i can't remember the difference.
just make sure it is for volume control.

 

[wtp]

Google- Volume control in audio is typically a logarithmic (or audio) taper, while a linear control is based on a direct, proportional relationship between the input and output. The difference lies in how the perceived loudness changes with the control's position, with audio tapers providing a more natural, gradual change in volume because the human ear responds to sound in a non-linear way. Linear controls, on the other hand, change resistance uniformly.

yep, 50 years later and it still rattles around in there somewhere !

 

[jjhendo]

Google- Volume control in audio is typically a logarithmic (or audio) taper, while a linear control is based on a direct, proportional relationship between the input and output. The difference lies in how the perceived loudness changes with the control's position, with audio tapers providing a more natural, gradual change in volume because the human ear responds to sound in a non-linear way. Linear controls, on the other hand, change resistance uniformly.

yep, 50 years later and it still rattles around in there somewhere !

Gotcha. Can I solder in a piece of wire back there to bridge that gap for the bulb to make contact with?

 

[wtp]

it is too hard for me to see it.
but can you swap two bulbs to see if it is burned out ?
one guy said it is a bayonet base which means you push the bulb in and give it a twist.
google-To remove a bayonet bulb, turn off the power, then push the bulb slightly into the socket and turn it counter-clockwise (to the left) to release the pins from the socket's slots, and then pull it out. If the bulb is stuck, try applying a firm, steady upward pressure while twisting, and if it breaks, you can use pliers or a potato to remove the base.
the bulb is like a BNC antenna, two pins on the sides.

 

[jjhendo]

it is too hard for me to see it.
but can you swap two bulbs to see if it is burned out ?
one guy said it is a bayonet base which means you push the bulb in and give it a twist.
google-To remove a bayonet bulb, turn off the power, then push the bulb slightly into the socket and turn it counter-clockwise (to the left) to release the pins from the socket's slots, and then pull it out. If the bulb is stuck, try applying a firm, steady upward pressure while twisting, and if it breaks, you can use pliers or a potato to remove the base.
the bulb is like a BNC antenna, two pins on the sides.

I have the bulbs, but I must have not twisted it and yanked one out, damaging that wire going across the back where they connect.. I'll try taking out this other bulb and see back there.

 

[wtp]

there should not be a gap, that wire looks like the center contact for the bulb.
i hate to say try bending it, but that might do it.
or a piece of metal to jump it and turn it on.
have you tried to swap bulbs ?