SDS100/SDS200: SDS100 J401 connector's real name?

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iTrooper

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Does anyone know what the true name of the "J401 connector" in the SDS100 is called?

I'm not having much luck finding a post (yet, still digging and digging), describing what the connector is called so I can attempt to buy a new one from China or whomever has it. Googling the J401 connector just has me going in a circle back to the RadioReference forum.

I hope someone knows.

Regards,
Greg
 

Ubbe

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It would be extremely difficult to align a new connector correctly if you where to replace it. It has to fit perfectly to the other one and there's no flexibility and will crack the soldering or the connector if it's 1 mm off. It has to be placed using a jig that holds it in the exact position.

/Ubbe
 

iTrooper

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Thank you for that tip, but I'm not asking for how to realign it.

I'm asking what the connector is called, all we have is J401 from the motherboard, but little to no information on what the connector is if one wanted to find one to replace it.
 

iTrooper

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If you're in the SDS100 forum, there's plenty of pics and videos already.

But anyway, jonwienke posted up an image of it a while back, but there's really no info regarding what the connector is called, googling up J401 ends up back to this forum.


20200729_223326_hdr_li-2-jpg.89053
 

donc13

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Does anyone know what the true name of the "J401 connector" in the SDS100 is called?

I'm not having much luck finding a post (yet, still digging and digging), describing what the connector is called so I can attempt to buy a new one from China or whomever has it. Googling the J401 connector just has me going in a circle back to the RadioReference forum.

I hope someone knows.

Regards,
Greg
You'd have to look on an SDS100 scematic. The "J401" is just typically Board 4,Junction Connector 01.

Other than that, it's a 40pin female connector block.
 

kruser

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If you're in the SDS100 forum, there's plenty of pics and videos already.

But anyway, jonwienke posted up an image of it a while back, but there's really no info regarding what the connector is called, googling up J401 ends up back to this forum.


20200729_223326_hdr_li-2-jpg.89053

It's nowhere near the size it seems in the picture.
You need an electronic microscope to do any work on it.

Even if you did find it and its mating male connector on the other board, attempting to replace the connectors would likely be near impossible unless you know someone who has the tools to do the work. What Jon was doing was re-flowing the loose pins which usually worked to fix the issue.

Open your SDS100 up and take measurements of the connectors and you will probably have a much better chance of finding an actual part number if it wasn't designed for Uniden only. If you do that, pay attention to the lead spacing as well.
You already know it has 40 pins so that's a start.
 

kruser

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pro106import

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Same here. I've found several of the oddball connectors I've encountered during repairs that ended up being found in JST info such as the pdf file you linked.

Did you measure that connector yourself or find an old post somewhere with the dimensions listed?
I found the dimensions on one of Jon's old posts. I'm sure it's accurate :)
 

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shanelynn321

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So following this link, and searching specifically for 0.5mm spacing, I found the eJMC connector. We know it's a 40 pin connector, but I measured 8mm height and do not see an option for that listed here.

Just an update for all of you searching. I ordered the 40P6.0-JMCS-G-B-TF(N) knowing it probably wasn't correct due to height, and it surely was not tall enough. The connector fits (didn't test continuity) but is not tall enough. Spoke to JST and they advised they do not make an 8mm tall version of that and it must be a counterfeit manufacturer that reverse engineered their products. (I do find that accusation far fetched though)
 

shanelynn321

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Just an update for all of you searching. I ordered the 40P6.0-JMCS-G-B-TF(N) knowing it probably wasn't correct due to height, and it surely was not tall enough. The connector fits (didn't test continuity) but is not tall enough. Spoke to JST and they advised they do not make an 8mm tall version of that and it must be a counterfeit manufacturer that reverse engineered their products. (I do find that accusation far fetched though)
UPDATE: I figured out the correct part number. 40P9.0-JMCS-G-B-TF(N)
The issue now is availability. It took a lot of digging and a lot of measuring, but I have confirmed this to be the correct part number. I will be trying to get some ordered and I'll post back with some more info when I get it.
 

shanelynn321

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It seems that viassion.com still have 16,000 of them and it might be possible to get a free sample to see that it fits.

/Ubbe
You are awesome! I sent a request in to see what they'd charge to get em ordered. I had never heard of them before. I'll have to keep them in the loop with orders.
 

shanelynn321

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Viassion just emailed me and called as well, they are in the UK and use Paypal Invoicing for orders. Price is extremely reasonable. Anyone looking to get these, I highly recommend you hurry up and order some from them.

Shoutout to @Ubbe for letting me know about this place!

UPDATE: Shipping is extremely high. Might be better to send units off to Uniden for repair.
 
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kruser

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Viassion just emailed me and called as well, they are in the UK and use Paypal Invoicing for orders. Price is extremely reasonable. Anyone looking to get these, I highly recommend you hurry up and order some from them.

Shoutout to @Ubbe for letting me know about this place!

UPDATE: Shipping is extremely high. Might be better to send units off to Uniden for repair.
Are your J401 connectors actually bad or perhaps damaged during a failed repair attempt?
In all cases I'm aware of, the connectors have always been fine and it's just a problem with the soldering of the connector to the PCB. Hence the CSJ terminology as they do appear to have been soldered at manufacture but possibly moved before the solder cooled which makes the cold solder joint which will fail eventually in most cases.
I was able to re-flow all the pins on my J401 connector using a magnifying electronic viewer microscope for working on these small things. No way I could have done the work without the magnifying electronic viewer. My connectors were physically fine otherwise.
 

shanelynn321

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Are your J401 connectors actually bad or perhaps damaged during a failed repair attempt?
In all cases I'm aware of, the connectors have always been fine and it's just a problem with the soldering of the connector to the PCB. Hence the CSJ terminology as they do appear to have been soldered at manufacture but possibly moved before the solder cooled which makes the cold solder joint which will fail eventually in most cases.
I was able to re-flow all the pins on my J401 connector using a magnifying electronic viewer microscope for working on these small things. No way I could have done the work without the magnifying electronic viewer. My connectors were physically fine otherwise.
I first used my SMD solder station with some mylar tape around the housing and surrounding components for protection to try to reflow the solder connections. After that was unsuccessful, I attempted with my pencil iron and after several attempts back and forth, the housing has gotten so hot, along with flux seeping behind the tape, that it is extremely discolored and seems to be slightly malformed. It has been sitting on my workbench for a few weeks now while I attempted to locate the connector to just replace it. Now that I found one but the cost is almost eqivalant to sending it to uniden, who states they can replace that connector, I am attempting with my pencil iron again. Last I tried it worked for a brief moment out of the case, but once I placed it back in the case, it stopped again.
 

kruser

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I first used my SMD solder station with some mylar tape around the housing and surrounding components for protection to try to reflow the solder connections. After that was unsuccessful, I attempted with my pencil iron and after several attempts back and forth, the housing has gotten so hot, along with flux seeping behind the tape, that it is extremely discolored and seems to be slightly malformed.
That's a bummer. It is a chore to get at for sure!
I did have the best luck using my pencil iron with a very skinny needle pointed tip. I managed to get it done without damaging the connector.
Somewhere while also trying to ID an actual part number, I'd ran across some spec sheets that showed how much tolerance there was for misaligned connectors between the two boards when assembled and tightened in place. It would be cool if they made that connector where at least one side or the other had 'floating' contacts so any misalignment would not put undo stress on either connector.
I could see how making such a connector floating would be hard though.
I had the same exact style connector fail in the same fashion in one of Panasonic's higher end IP camera's. It failed due to the two boards not being perfectly aligned when put together and tightened down. I think the cam had fewer contacts though plus I did ruin that one when I went to try and reflow the pins that had lifted off the PCB. Upon further examination, I found the pins were probably soldered correctly but the traces or solder pads on one of the two PCBs had lifted off the board making a repair near impossible. I started tracing the traces to repair the ones that had ripped off the board but it was not going to be an easy job for my old eyes. I eventually gave up on that repair!

Good luck in your repair attempts if you do find the same connector but in your country so shipping does not kill the deal!!
Uniden may just replace the entire board but if it's the logic board, make sure you include a note about any of the optional modes you may have purchased. They can clone the original boards serial number and I think they usually do that but there have been a few reports where the tech may have missed that step and the owner had to call to get them to issue new keys for the optional features.
 

mancow

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For this type of work I can recommed these irons.
Portable NF.Mini Soldering Pen – NorthridgeFix
It is the only thing I've found so far with the precision and temperature control needed. I flood the area with good flux they offer at the site as well and with a bit of a wetted tip with good lead based solder the joints tend to flow and not bridge. I have not tried on this paticular application but have used it for similar other repairs with similar lead spacing.
 
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