SDS100/SDS200: SDS100 J401 connector's real name?

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shanelynn321

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I've gotten it back together and the only bridging that is still there are the grounds and pins 7 & 9 that are +3.7v. I'm almost certain the connector is done for since when I turn it on (when it wants to), the scroll wheel does its own things scrolling and clicking the button as well as the typical -40db RSSI. The RF board is also extremely loose when connecting to the logic board. I haven't given up just yet but I am nearing calling the customer and advising that I will need to send it to uniden.

@kruser Good idea on double checking for upgrade keys.

Speaking of broken traces, Pin 21's trace kept bridging to pin 19 and I figured out that the pin was soldered to the trace but the trace had separated from the board and kept moving to touch 19's trace. I had to run a jumper from that pin to the 100ohm resistor that it's connected to.
 
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devicelab

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Even if you did find it and its mating male connector on the other board, attempting to replace the connectors would likely be near impossible unless you know someone who has the tools to do the work. What Jon was doing was re-flowing the loose pins which usually worked to fix the issue.
For the past few years, I'm lucky enough to have access to the 'right tools' and I can't stress how important this is... it's like working on anything else: car, electronics, etc. The right tools can make you and the wrong tools *will* break you.

Simple repair job with the proper tools.
 

shanelynn321

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For the past few years, I'm lucky enough to have access to the 'right tools' and I can't stress how important this is... it's like working on anything else: car, electronics, etc. The right tools can make you and the wrong tools *will* break you.

Simple repair job with the proper tools.
Very much so! I wouldn't dare touch SMD with a regular iron. I bought a nice hot air station with an iron and it works very well.
 

shanelynn321

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I though you said you had bridging problems, detached trace problems and overheated plastic connector?
Correct. I started off with the hot air gun and mylar tape. When I added Flux to help the solder flow, it moved behind the tape and discolored and heat up the plastic connector. I then moved to the pencil iron and worked carefully. The only places that had bridging was at the board level where they are all bridged together. I was not worried about making them perfect as they were all grounds.
 

Ubbe

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It helps a lot if you use solder paste or fluid as that almost magically will make the solder move to the place it needs to be and its almost impossible to leave bridges. If it ends up to be too much solder during the soldering process you have to remove it using a unsolder braid and start over with solder paste and then add new solder. Heat guns are always tricky to use, if not having the super expensive ones, and even protecting as much as possible with mylar tape I usually melt some nearby plastic connectors that I then have to cut and file to make it fit again.

/Ubbe
 
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