bmendez
Member
I just bought this 3/4 hole saw would this work to make a hole
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Tools to mount a permanent mount
- Thread starter bmendez
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Picture?
Here's a picture of a Ripley HSK-19 Hole Saw, 3/4 Inch daimeter.
Available from many places, your favorite auction site, etc.
Drills the just the sheetmetal and stops.
Tip: Once you're done installing your antenna, use compressed air or a soft brush to clean off all metal chips from the surface. Just don't ask me how I know.
Here's a picture of a Ripley HSK-19 Hole Saw, 3/4 Inch daimeter.
Available from many places, your favorite auction site, etc.
Drills the just the sheetmetal and stops.
Tip: Once you're done installing your antenna, use compressed air or a soft brush to clean off all metal chips from the surface. Just don't ask me how I know.
bmendez
Member
You might want to dril a test hole in a piece of sheet metal to get a feel for the process. This will also let you test fit the mount.
Bill
Bill
mmckenna
I ♥ Ø
Are you going to use this on a vehicle? If yes, then yeah, two issues I see.
Aggressive tooth saw blade, can catch and cause damage.
Long pilot drill and no stop, that can be a problem if you want to limit depth.
Will it work? Probably, if you go really slow and almost no pressure. But the risks are high, especially if you haven't done this before. I've been in a jam and needed one, not for a vehicle, but on the top of a equipment enclosure. Went to Home Depot and picked up a 3/4" De Walt hole saw that had much finer teeth. It worked, but I wouldn't use it on my own truck.
Ripley/Cablematic/Laird are better tools for the job, will do less damage and are easier for a new installer to master.
If you are just making a hole in a bracket or equipment box, then what you have will work if you are careful.
Aggressive tooth saw blade, can catch and cause damage.
Long pilot drill and no stop, that can be a problem if you want to limit depth.
Will it work? Probably, if you go really slow and almost no pressure. But the risks are high, especially if you haven't done this before. I've been in a jam and needed one, not for a vehicle, but on the top of a equipment enclosure. Went to Home Depot and picked up a 3/4" De Walt hole saw that had much finer teeth. It worked, but I wouldn't use it on my own truck.
Ripley/Cablematic/Laird are better tools for the job, will do less damage and are easier for a new installer to master.
If you are just making a hole in a bracket or equipment box, then what you have will work if you are careful.
It will 'work' but you will have to be very careful that when it finally punches thru it doesn't go too far and mess up your headliner. That's why the Ripley, (and other similar) is the choice of professionals.
"Make it easy to do the right thing (drilling just far enough) and hard to do the wrong thing (drilling too far and damaging stuff).
"Make it easy to do the right thing (drilling just far enough) and hard to do the wrong thing (drilling too far and damaging stuff).
The kind of holesaw you show may actually cut a 7/8” hole. This not what you need for an NMO antenna mount.
There several different hole saws available that are designed to cut a smooth 3/4” hole. As pointed out they have very short pilot bits and are fine-toothed to leave a smooth, nearly burr-free hole without punching through the headliner.
This exact subject has been discussed here many, many times. Use the search function and read up on the subject.
There several different hole saws available that are designed to cut a smooth 3/4” hole. As pointed out they have very short pilot bits and are fine-toothed to leave a smooth, nearly burr-free hole without punching through the headliner.
This exact subject has been discussed here many, many times. Use the search function and read up on the subject.
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used one for almost all of the 90's with only a few hiccups. as mentioned the big teeth can grab and kick it across the roof if you get off a straight plunge. you do want to back the pilot bit in some but leave close to 1/4" sticking out to prevent the previous issue. the next big thing is if it is bare headliner below your hole run a yard stick or better yet a 1x3 under the headliner to help hold it out the way. it does take a practiced hand to stop before popping thru from the metal roof and into the headliner, believe me I did it a couple times before I got used to them! and yes, make absolutely sure that cuts a true 3/4" hole, 7/8" will be too big and even if it does if you don't drill true it will wobble out the hole.
Don't be like a co-worker of mine, that used home improvement store hole saws and then comes back with the teeth filled with headliner and insulation material clogged in the bit and drill. Take the advise given above, it comes from years of experience installing NMO roof mounts.
Although, I still get into arguments with co-workers about NMO mounts leaking. Their claim is that a properly installed mount will not leak. My claim is that all roof mounts will leak, eventually. I prefer fender and trunk lip mounts for this reason.
Although, I still get into arguments with co-workers about NMO mounts leaking. Their claim is that a properly installed mount will not leak. My claim is that all roof mounts will leak, eventually. I prefer fender and trunk lip mounts for this reason.
Not everyone has one and quite expensive but I used a Greenlee Knockout punch. Drill a pilot hole and use the punch. Clean hole. I don't know if you can rent one or not. Also there were hole saws that had diamond tips, not sure if they are still available, we used them to cut holes in concreate. But if you have to use a hole saw use a damn good one, or as one said a step drill.
Project25_MASTR
Millennial Graying OBT Guy
Have to be careful with the knockout punches. They come in two sizes, conduit and trade. Trade is a true 3/4" hole and conduit is not. Also, knock out punches require some form of underside access to assemble the punch. This simply is not doable if you are in any situation where you can't easily drop a headliner. As an example, if you are working on a PPV Tahoe or PI Utility that has already been to the upfitters...unless you want to pull the seats out and the cage out...you'll save 4 hours of labor using a NMO holesaw.
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