Pro-2006: Unknown Pro-2006 mods

[nonionizingemf]

Unknown PRO-2006 mods

IC9 regulates the battery voltage down to 5 volts for the memory chip. Testing battery current with the radio unplugged will effectively tell us what the current into IC9 is. For now lets keep to non-invasive testing and not unsolder anything. I'll be signing off for the evening at this point.

10-4.

For some reason I think of transistors as rectifiers (I think that is the term) and not IC's (more than one transistor). Mental block due to naming convention on my part as there is overlap where a transistor is a basic IC, duh. Thanks for the IC9 details. I was thinking there should be an output voltage at one point also and didn't think more into design function since I was just plugging and chugging away measuring correctly. Definitely makes sense critically thinking.

Charged 9V Battery for PRO-2006, reads 8.37V directly after taking off charger.
Using the method you noted and demonstrated in the photo I get either way radio on/off:
1 uA with radio plugged in to AC outlet (at first then goes to zero)
54 mA with radio not plugged in to AC outlet (at first then drops)

IC5 voltages (V) with 9V battery present, radio turned on.
pin 8 - 0.003
pin 9 - 3.78
pin 10 - 2.21


IC5 voltages (V) with battery absent, radio turned on
pin 8 - 6.93
pin 9 - 0.07
pin 10 - 2.22

IC9 voltages (V), battery was not present
Radio off but plugged in, input=8.48, output=4.85
Radio on and plugged in, input=8.37, output=4.85

IC9 voltages (V)
Radio unplugged and battery present, input=6.94, output=4.78

9V Battery reads reads 8.35V directly after testing.

Thanks for all the support!

 

[pro92b]

The readings for IC5 are correct so it is functioning properly and does not need to be replaced.

The IC9 current readings are not quite as expected. With the radio plugged in the reading should be 2uA and it should not drop. Check to be sure the meter is set to measure DC current and not AC current. The current is determined by resistors R232 and R235 and it should be steady at about 2uA.

The 54mA reading is about 1000 times higher than normal which implies a fault in the circuit. The report of this reading dropping as well suggests that the meter might be set on AC current. At any rate if the current is around 50mA, that certainly will drain the battery in less than a day.

IC9 powers the CPU and memory chips and it is possible that the high current drain is from a problem on the logic board. To isolate the load, unplug CN3, the large connector on the main board at the front of the radio. With the radio unplugged from the wall, measure battery current with CN3 unplugged. If you still read 50mA then IC9 should be replaced along with capacitors C234 and C235. If the current reading drops back into the microamps with CN3 unplugged, the fault is on the logic board. Unfortunately the CPU is a custom chip and the memory is long obsolete so the logic board isn't repairable. It would need to be replaced if you can find a donor radio or maybe buy a logic board from G&G.

 

[nonionizingemf]

Unknown PRO-2006 mods

The IC9 current readings are not quite as expected. With the radio plugged in the reading should be 2uA and it should not drop. Check to be sure the meter is set to measure DC current and not AC current. The current is determined by resistors R232 and R235 and it should be steady at about 2uA.

The 54mA reading is about 1000 times higher than normal which implies a fault in the circuit. The report of this reading dropping as well suggests that the meter might be set on AC current. At any rate if the current is around 50mA, that certainly will drain the battery in less than a day.

IC9 powers the CPU and memory chips and it is possible that the high current drain is from a problem on the logic board. To isolate the load, unplug CN3, the large connector on the main board at the front of the radio. With the radio unplugged from the wall, measure battery current with CN3 unplugged. If you still read 50mA then IC9 should be replaced along with capacitors C234 and C235. If the current reading drops back into the microamps with CN3 unplugged, the fault is on the logic board. Unfortunately the CPU is a custom chip and the memory is long obsolete so the logic board isn't repairable. It would need to be replaced if you can find a donor radio or maybe buy a logic board from G&G.

10-4

I used the A settings where there is a solid line above 3 dashed lines. I notice on the one multimeter however, that current setting range isn't surrounded by a green line and is red. The A~ is surrounded by green on the meter I used and I just checked to see and is flashing "AC" when I switch to A~. There is no reading when power on, powered off there is a 0.3 that flashes and goes to zero.

I have to eat and pick up mail as I am working offsite. Plus I have to leave because the timed ozone is about to turn on. I'll do like you noted when I get back and report.

 

[nonionizingemf]

Unknown PRO-2006 mods

The readings for IC5 are correct so it is functioning properly and does not need to be replaced.

The IC9 current readings are not quite as expected. With the radio plugged in the reading should be 2uA and it should not drop. Check to be sure the meter is set to measure DC current and not AC current. The current is determined by resistors R232 and R235 and it should be steady at about 2uA.

The 54mA reading is about 1000 times higher than normal which implies a fault in the circuit. The report of this reading dropping as well suggests that the meter might be set on AC current. At any rate if the current is around 50mA, that certainly will drain the battery in less than a day.

IC9 powers the CPU and memory chips and it is possible that the high current drain is from a problem on the logic board. To isolate the load, unplug CN3, the large connector on the main board at the front of the radio. With the radio unplugged from the wall, measure battery current with CN3 unplugged. If you still read 50mA then IC9 should be replaced along with capacitors C234 and C235. If the current reading drops back into the microamps with CN3 unplugged, the fault is on the logic board. Unfortunately the CPU is a custom chip and the memory is long obsolete so the logic board isn't repairable. It would need to be replaced if you can find a donor radio or maybe buy a logic board from G&G.

Reads 0.003mA or 3uA though drops and stays stable on 2uA.

I do see pin 4 of CN3 goes to the diode on the LM339N. The corresponding pin 4 blue wire on the logic board connector goes to the switch in the back with a wire on the other pole of the switch going to the correspoing pole on the other switch and the other pole of that switch going back to a diode on the LM339N board.

I touched the blue wire back to stock configuration though didn't break the line existing and same 54mA reading.

Not repairable? I just read an HaD article (though I am not that person) who repaired an IC.
https://hackaday.com/2017/10/15/get-down-to-the-die-level-with-this-internal-chip-repair/
That is amazing to me and some real intense skill. I never read anything like that.

Is there anything known on the logic board that goes bad by chance you know of?

Thanks a lot for all your support and attention to detail on this project.

On another note... I did receive all #1 through #3 of the Modification Handbooks. The library didn't have the Ultimate book in yet. I also received a telescoping antenna that can screw in place.

I have to drill out the plastic a little more to get the antenna to fit.

Hopefully, I can pick up some stations now since I can set frequency, modulation and bandwidth.

 

[pro92b]

Not sure I followed everything in your last post. Disconnecting CN3 returned the battery current to 2uA if I understand correctly. That implies the high current drain is on the logic board or a board added as a modification if it connects to CN3. Your radio has so many modifications done to it that I don't know if any of the mods has a bearing on the high current problem. It looks like IC9 is good though.

I don't see an LM339 in the PRO-2006 service manual. Are you talking about circuitry on an added board as part of a modification? There was something published about a data and tone squelch circuit that might be part of the mods in your radio. I attached what I have about the add-on board.

Are you saying that CN3 pin 4 causes 54mA battery current if it is connected even if other CN3 pins are disconnected? I am not clear on that. If the LM339 board is part of the problem, it can be removed and the radio returned to stock condition.

The hackaday article just shows repair of damaged pins on an integrated circuit. This is mechanical damage only and the chip had no electrical damage. I wouldn't expect that situation to apply to your PRO-2006.

 

[nonionizingemf]

Unknown PRO-2006 mods

Not sure I followed everything in your last post. Disconnecting CN3 returned the battery current to 2uA if I understand correctly. That implies the high current drain is on the logic board or a board added as a modification if it connects to CN3. Your radio has so many modifications done to it that I don't know if any of the mods has a bearing on the high current problem. It looks like IC9 is good though.

Yes, correct, 2uA. I am thinking the added modification perforated board that has the LM339N chip with 4 diodes, 4 resistors, a capacitor and six wires connected from what I see.

I don't see an LM339 in the PRO-2006 service manual. Are you talking about circuitry on an added board as part of a modification? There was something published about a data and tone squelch circuit that might be part of the mods in your radio. I attached what I have about the add-on board.

Yes, added board circuitry. I still haven't read the #1 through #3 Scanner Modification Books by Bill Cheek.
I just realized the "Ultimate Scanner" is book #3. So I do have all three books.

Thanks for the attachment.

Are you saying that CN3 pin 4 causes 54mA battery current if it is connected even if other CN3 pins are disconnected? I am not clear on that. If the LM339 board is part of the problem, it can be removed and the radio returned to stock condition.

I left CN3 connected and unplugged the pin 4 wire with a single wire male and female connector going to the diode on the perforated mod board.

I then placed the pin 4 wire from the CN3 connector on the board side in contact with the logic board connector pin 4 wire (though that side of the wire is soldered to the switch on the back of the case and I didn't disconnect).

The hackaday article just shows repair of damaged pins on an integrated circuit. This is mechanical damage only and the chip had no electrical damage. I wouldn't expect that situation to apply to your PRO-2006.

I see. Would be great if the mod board removal corrected the issue.

73!

 

[nonionizingemf]

Unknown PRO-2006 mods

I attached what I have about the add-on board.

I did just verify that two of the wires from the board are going to the trim pot attached on top of the case.

After realizing I need to practice my soldering skills on SMD components and other IC's... I found the comment in the .txt file humorous "1" x 1" though smaller is ok if you are good at micro circuits."

Especially, the term "micro" circuits?

The modifications seems like a great modification and seems more "mini" to me now days. OK, blah blah...


73!

 

[nonionizingemf]

Unknown PRO-2006 mods

There's no Probe like application for that interface. You can see in the link you provided that it is a simple remote keyboard function. It doesn't sound as anything you should pursue to have that PC interface working. The discriminator tap are for low speed stuff. As mentioned I/Q needs you to tap out the IF signal, 10.8MHz or whatever it is, and feed into a SDR dongle.

I'm guessing that I may still be able to tap into the I/Q data from the PRO-2006 as RFI-EMI-GUY suggested and you note run into an SDR dongle?

I'm still reading in regards to those details and have to better understand the baseband output from the IF specification for the PRO-2006 and the baseband input IF into a SDR dongle to meet the SDR dongle specification requirements. Maybe I can do with a $10 dongle, though the higher quality ones are around $20 now?

For equipment to test the baseband IF, I will have and, have the following:

I won a Heathkit GD-1B for $38 with all the coils last night and a MFJ-203 that I didn't expect to have the offer accepted for $50. I should be able to clean, paint maybe replace components and I was thinking add a 9V power supply or at least wall wart adapter and resell the GD-1B if not both and return that investment. I also wanted to try making some other coils for lower frequency testing as I see that was an option for the GD-1B. I'll test the MFJ-203 and probably resell as I am not sure I need though for the price seemed like a good deal. These can be used to test frequency still

I have a VICTOR VC3165 Frequency Counter. I could use that to test for frequency, though need to make a coupling coil. I think this is with maybe a certain gauge household wire and a number of turns a specific diameter attach to a male BNC connector with solder connection. I need to verify the specification requirements for the frequencies to test as this can be made for the GD-1B and maybe MFJ-203 also,

I have the TDS-520B that I haven't used yet that wound up working so far though doesn't have the FFT option turned on yet. I still have to install the NI PCI to GPIB adapter and NI 488.2 software, see if I can access the log file to see what is there and memory to make the required changes to turn on the option. This can be my best piece of equipment even though the case is in rough condition and the front cover is broken off. I was thinking I could have the front cover 3D printed for less than the cost to buy new. This is a great piece of equipment and my first oscilloscope I've owned.

I have to read more to make the frequency measurements and not damage anything still before I make contact with any devices. I can't believe how expensive the probes were and I took months to find one I could afford for the 500Mhz that spec'ed out for the scope. About 1/3 the cost of the scope.

If the PRO-2006 is 50Ohm, then I could make direct contact with the board with the 50Ohm probe correct? Otherwise, I will have to make a coupling coil to make the measurement?

I was also thinking I could use the RFExplorer or SDR and try that way also with an antenna or maybe make a 75Ohm coupling coil since the RTL-SDR's are 75Ohm. The HackRF I need to verify as I thought that is 50Ohm as is the RFExplorer.

At first I was thinking the baseband IF data could go into the computer software directly and the filter was performed by the computer hardware and software. I think now that the passband data has to go into the computer software and the software controls the bandpass filters on the SDR or device chip filter hardware.

I'm going to read some more.

Thanks for the feedback everyone.

 

[pro92b]

Looking at Bill Cheek's third book, "The Ultimate Scanner", I see that the data tone squelch board in your PRO-2006 is described in detail starting on page 121. Maybe this modification was a great idea 25 years ago when it came out, but with a variety of trunk tracking scanners available now it has outlived its usefulness. I would remove it and see if the battery drain returns to normal. If not, then the problem is on the logic board as long as the wiring to CN3 isn't diverted elsewhere.

 

[nonionizingemf]

Will do, thanks for narrowing down the reference also. The .txt file seemed to line up also in detail.

I have a couple other projects I am working on and I will reply back on my progress once I get to. I can get to removing the mod in a day. Basement leakage cleanup for now. :-(

 

[nonionizingemf]

I'm going to wait another day to work on this. For some reason I was getting jock itch since the day I opened the box to the PRO-2006. I did eat some higher carb junk food and I had two beers which I hardly ever do with my brothers neighbor (his girlfriend). Well, my left leg started swelling around my ankle with a little rash along above my foot and red speckles on both areas above the ankles the past few days since I opened again and the jock itch that went away almost came back like when started. Well... I just found out I have Valley Fever. I thought I had something worse than just jock itch. The Scanner came from an Estate sale in Phoenix Arizona. Last time I had Valley Fever was when I left my truck out there in Tuscon for the summer at a Toyota Dealership when I went in more debt for the Prius. Side not, by the way, those hybrids are awesome power stations too. Back to the point... Therefore, I am going to leave the Scanner in front of the Ozone Generator for two half hour cycles to disinfect. Too back I can't spray H2O2, tea trea oil or iodine on the scanner without damaging. Hoping the Ozone doesn't do too much damage. :-|) Will be another day before I get to working on.

 

[Ubbe]

Isn't ozone generators a hight voltage mini lightning generator and should be kept far from delicate electronics?

/Ubbe

 

[nonionizingemf]

Unknown PRO-2006 mods

Isn't ozone generators a hight voltage mini lightning generator and should be kept far from delicate electronics?

/Ubbe

Yes at very close range. Looks really neat in the dark looking at the plates.

More-so I am thinking Nitric Acid, Hydrogen Peroxide and some other nasty chemicals in the air briefly were what I was concerned more regarding. Plus in the humid basement that just flooded in my region of pathogenic/probiotic yuck. I'm hoping my microorganisms if airborne are not so bad for me. I seem to be OK with. The static, noise, interference and jamming targeting me is more an issue as well as the incompetency of forensic analysts with even chemicals in Michigan unless their mafia can steal enough for their official law enforcement and attorney continuing criminal enterprises. I see now why the show "Forensics Files" and other titled documentary reports ceased after they started investigating more cyber and digital crimes. Now, the shows are more fools that are "easiest" to target and fleece if not worse.

73!

 

[nonionizingemf]

Unknown PRO-2006 mods

Looking at Bill Cheek's third book, "The Ultimate Scanner", I see that the data tone squelch board in your PRO-2006 is described in detail starting on page 121. Maybe this modification was a great idea 25 years ago when it came out, but with a variety of trunk tracking scanners available now it has outlived its usefulness. I would remove it and see if the battery drain returns to normal. If not, then the problem is on the logic board as long as the wiring to CN3 isn't diverted elsewhere.

I finally read through the first Bill Cheek's Scanner Modification Handbook which isn't exactly referencing the PRO-2006. The book gave me some ideas that I am going to consider implementing (even if I have to replace the logic board):

1. Using the DC power supply input.

2. Making or using a 18650 old laptop battery bank with voltage regulator. I have a 2000VAC UPS I customized to have 12V banana plug input/outputs so I can switch (via two marine rocker switches) to use 12V instead of the 24V operation if I need to charge the 12V or use the 12V directly.

3. Placing a IEC320-C14 power cord connector in the back or shortening the cord and adding a ground (I think... maybe the ground could cause more noise?).

4. Make a BNC output to tap into the 3rd IF for finer tuning with a shortwave radio or other device. Reads like the 2004/2005 have 455kHz 3rd stage IF. Other scanners have ~10Mhz or 10.7Mhz 2nd stage IF only to tap. I am not sure how accurate or why that is.

There is also a separate WFM circuit for the FM stereo range that I need to read into more.

I'll get back to this project once I finish reading the other two Bill Cheek books.

I got rain again and I have to divert to the basement leak issues so getting a little behind. Ankle swelling and skin condition is going down though.

 

[nonionizingemf]

Unknown PRO-2006 mods

I finally read through the first Bill Cheek's Scanner Modification Handbook 2 which does explicitly reference the PRO-2006.

4. Make a BNC output to tap into the 3rd IF for finer tuning with a shortwave radio or other device. Reads like the 2004/2005 have 455kHz 3rd stage IF. Other scanners have ~10Mhz or 10.7Mhz 2nd stage IF only to tap. I am not sure how accurate or why that is.

There is also a separate WFM circuit for the FM stereo range that I need to read into more.
.

I read and found that the PRO-2006 has the following IF Discriminator Coils:
1. 455kHz NFM
2. 10.7Mhz WFM

There are also IF Trap and Detection Coils that are 455kHz (AM), 48.5Mhz (NFM/AM/WFM), 10.7Mhz (WFM), 512Mhz (WFM) and Bandpass Filter coil(s)??.

I need to read more into detail of the function of each coil and how the discrimination taps are made to make sure I understand clearly before proceeding with any mods.

There are some troubleshooting and testing procedures also that I may go through also in case I notice anything deviant from spec.

Interestingly, Bill claims the logic/CPU board is rather hardy and shouldn't cause any issues. I'll see what happens when I remove the other mods though... 2 books down and one more to go.

 

[nonionizingemf]

Also, in Book 2 there is a high speed antenna selector switch that is switched by the bandpass filter that seems really neat if we have an antenna farm.

 

[nonionizingemf]

Unknown PRO-2006 mods

Looking at Bill Cheek's third book, "The Ultimate Scanner", I see that the data tone squelch board in your PRO-2006 is described in detail starting on page 121. Maybe this modification was a great idea 25 years ago when it came out, but with a variety of trunk tracking scanners available now it has outlived its usefulness. I would remove it and see if the battery drain returns to normal. If not, then the problem is on the logic board as long as the wiring to CN3 isn't diverted elsewhere.

Got back to working on the scanner, first checking to make sure the Ozone didn't do anything different to the scanner. Cleaned and checks out the same as before (hopefully with no fungal bio-burden).

I did turn on and connect an antenna to see how the display and keyboard is working per the Owners Manual and for some reason I can't get [Limit], [Manual] or [Program] buttons to do anything. I can scan starting from either 25Mhz or 1300Mhz. Either up or down. The [PRI], [Mode], [Step] and [Scan] button seems to work. I can select memory channels though am not able to manually change the frequency and save a frequency to a memory channel.

I'm going to wait just in case anyone has any ideas, however I am thinking and planning on removing the mods for memory and tone squelch both and see what that does.

Also, I waited forever to scan down to WFM radio range to see what stations are picked up and I only received one... however... I didn't drill out the case yet to get a telescoping antenna with a threaded bottom I have to fit yet. I just used the BNC connector on the back with the Direct TV dish just to see if anything is picked up. Good to know something else is working. I did pick up some trunking frequencies around ~850-865Mhz and other code sounding signals coming from the dish's pointed direction. :-|) Good to know the scanner is picking up stations. Now, being able to not have to wait to scan to get to is another challenge.

So, before I fire up the soldering iron... I am organizing a few other projects that need solder work. The MFJ-203 I received doesn't work (RCA female jack is broken and needs soldering as well as some of the traces are peeling off the PCB looks like, meter is discolored a little tan and coil probe looks a little bent... still waiting for a schematic from MFJ support ticket). I have a 5V and 12V dual power supply kit I ordered for a DDS Frequency/Signal Generator I need to solder together also. The new 0.5ppm TCXO upgrade for the 1.3v HamItUp Upconverter, some semi-flexible SMA cables, the variable inductor to replace the hairpins (I need to measure to verify range still) for my telescoping modified tape measure yagi that uses telescoping antennas and telescoping mast and I think that is all for the soldering projects coming up. I also won a Heathkit GD-1B Grid Dip Meter that I wanted to inspect to see if that is going to need work though that claims to be working good.

Not bad to know the scanner sort of works... especially after giving me valley fever. I requested a refund or partial refund since is more a parts device and more work than I expected to get working reasonably. I forgot to mention the infection it gave me too. :-/.