You've heard the story before - "HOA" and Shortwave (receiving) options.

[WA8ZTZ]

FWIW...My RSP1 likes a long outdoor antenna.
It is nearly deaf when using a MFJ 1020C as an active antenna indoors.
However, the MFJ unit greatly boosts signal when used as a preselector with the outdoor antenna.
But again, with just the 1020C alone, the RSP1 hears nearly nothing.

 

[KB2GOM]

Okay, I'm sure you've heard this story before, retired dude, HOA BS, needing inside options...

Well, I'm different! I'm not looking for a stealth antenna, I'm not looking for a project to complete, I don't want to read endless claims on websites about why X, Y or Z's antenna is better and that's why I should buy theirs. Fact is you guys here know your stuff, so why should I spend weeks researching stuff only to possibly be disappointed later, when you guys have the practical experience and probably already own one you are happy with and can wholeheartedly recommend.

Will be getting an RSP1 (SDR), so here is the skinny, third floor of a retirement condo, windows facing south. Antenna will be inside on the window sill or hanging in the window which is 7 feet, 8 inches wide. Antenna will be about 3 and a half feet from the PC. I don't care if it's a loop, vertical or whatever, I just want to hear that it works WELL and is under $150.00... but the cheaper the better... is this too much to ask?U

Okay . . . I don't think you specified what frequencies you want to hear, and I get that you don't want to do a project . . .

nevertheless, I have thought and written about your particular problem (which I also have). In addition, I have used all of the below, which are well under your budget but would require "some assembly" (bear in mind, I am, emphatically, NOT a technical guy):

The horizontal room loop: Jock designs a Horizontal Room Loop to cope with reception issues

A short amplified dipole: amplified shortwave antennas – The SWLing Post

An indoor end-fed: The Satellit 800, the Tecsun PL-880, and two indoor antennas – an afternoon of experimentation

For vhf/uhf, I've had very good experience with this: Homebrewed Off-Center Fed Dipole - The RadioReference Wiki

And if you find the above non-responsive or just plain dumb, no harm, no foul; and I wish you well in your search for a solution.

 

[R0am3r]

@Omega-TI Before you purchase a commercial loop antenna, you should find some wire and string it around the room using various configurations (folded dipole, off-center fed dipole, end-fed wire, etc.). @KB2GOM offers some great ideas of easy to build antennas that might work in your room. Wire is cheap and you may find it will provide better performance than a loop. Please share what antenna you find works best for your environment.

I own the original RSP1 SDR and two RSP1A SDRs. The original RSP1 has worked great for many years and is now reassigned to HF radio pan adapter duties. It is the perfect SDR for my HF activities (Ham, Shortwave, AM DX, etc.). The two RSP1A SDRs run 24/7 monitoring systems across the VHF and UHF bands. I recognize that you asked about Shortwave, but don't discount the fact that you can easily move a RSP1A up into VHF/UHF frequencies at a moment's notice. If things are boring on SW, you'll appreciate that your SDR can monitor everything from 1kHz to 2000 MHZ.

 

[dlwtrunked]

@dlwtrunked One of my wants was a wide bandwidth, and the RSP1's is 10 MHz wide which will make it easier to find stations. How wide is it on the the AirSpy HF+Discovery? That case is pretty small too, did they eliminate the overheating problem on this model? I seem to recall some messages a while back about some AirSpy products overheating. I'm still keeping an open mind, but I will tell you, that software looks pretty mature and the ease of installation is inviting.

The HF+ Discovery is 768 kHz maximum but for most purposes that is fine on HF; if using 10 MHz, one cannot often separate stations visually in the display. Note that it is easy to step through steps of 1 MHz using SDRsharp to see what is happening on other frequencies. Yes, it is small--will easily fit 2 or 3 in a shirt pocked. Overheating--never saw and I use it a lot. On most PC's it is plug and play unlike other SDRs. In any case, you will find a slight learning curve with any SDR but it is very very well worth it.

 

[Omega-TI]

@Omega-TI Before you purchase a commercial loop antenna, you should find some wire and string it around the room using various configurations (folded dipole, off-center fed dipole, end-fed wire, etc.). @KB2GOM offers some great ideas of easy to build antennas that might work in your room. Wire is cheap and you may find it will provide better performance than a loop. Please share what antenna you find works best for your environment.

I own the original RSP1 SDR and two RSP1A SDRs. The original RSP1 has worked great for many years and is now reassigned to HF radio pan adapter duties. It is the perfect SDR for my HF activities (Ham, Shortwave, AM DX, etc.). The two RSP1A SDRs run 24/7 monitoring systems across the VHF and UHF bands. I recognize that you asked about Shortwave, but don't discount the fact that you can easily move a RSP1A up into VHF/UHF frequencies at a moment's notice. If things are boring on SW, you'll appreciate that your SDR can monitor everything from 1kHz to 2000 MHZ.

Thanks, I've decided to take your advice on the wire. I think I can hide it from view behind the curtains and around the inside window frame. I'll check out Printables.com to see if there are any pre-designed antenna items I can print up on the Prusa.

Yeah, you got me figured out! HF is only one aspect, MW and VHF are on my list. I find using the spectrum analyzer display and waterfall feature a big advantage in finding frequencies.

 

[Omega-TI]

The HF+ Discovery is 768 kHz maximum but for most purposes that is fine on HF; if using 10 MHz, one cannot often separate stations visually in the display.

The 10MHz is just a starting point, I can always zoom in later, but that was a major factor in my decision making.

 

[Omega-TI]

Okay . . . I don't think you specified what frequencies you want to hear, and I get that you don't want to do a project . . .

nevertheless, I have thought and written about your particular problem (which I also have). In addition, I have used all of the below, which are well under your budget but would require "some assembly" (bear in mind, I am, emphatically, NOT a technical guy):

The horizontal room loop: Jock designs a Horizontal Room Loop to cope with reception issues

A short amplified dipole: amplified shortwave antennas – The SWLing Post

An indoor end-fed: The Satellit 800, the Tecsun PL-880, and two indoor antennas – an afternoon of experimentation

For vhf/uhf, I've had very good experience with this: Homebrewed Off-Center Fed Dipole - The RadioReference Wiki

And if you find the above non-responsive or just plain dumb, no harm, no foul; and I wish you well in your search for a solution.

Oh wow! Thank you for those links. I'll check them all out tomorrow. I'd like to today, but my honey wants me to give her attention tonight.

It occurs to me that velcro command strips could be just the thing for the window frame loop. The wire could be held in place by the velcro as I'm making each loop. What do you think, 100 or 200 feet of wire?

 

[Omega-TI]

I have very poor experience on the GA-800 antenna from the same company which is more expensive, doesn't have a tuning knob and is advertised to have wider frequency range.

The biggest problem is the power unit which contains a switch-mode converter and spews plenty of RF interference over the bands.

The frequency range seems exaggerated too - on mid-VHF the amplifier does nothing, except that turning it on adds noise from the power unit. Lower LF and VLF are unusable due to the noise.

It does receive signals, and it's possible to get rid of the RF interference with a different power injector and a non-switching power source. I've tried this but haven't tested it very thoroughly yet (will do at some point). But I think it doesn't make sense to pay 120...150 dollars to get a mediocre antenna that requires your own modifications to be useful.

When the loop is standing on the power unit and you turn it, the BNC connector often loses contact briefly. So build quality is also not quite 100% of what I expected for such price.


I don't know if this applies to the GA-450 or not, but I would be hesitant to buy that antenna either, unless I could see some thorough reviews first.


As for other loop antennas:

I also have the Youloop and I would say it's better and more worth its price, but not trouble-free. As the manufacturer warns, it requires a high sensitivity receiver, or perhaps a high-quality preamplifier, otherwise it doesn't receive much. Its build quality is also not satisfactory; I haven't even used it much and it already has very annoying contact problems either in the two connection boxes or in the SMA connectors of the antenna pieces (semi-rigid coaxial). The good thing is that it can be folded and transported easily and it doesn't need any extra power.

The MLA-30 seems to be popular and cheap, I don't have one but I might consider it if I needed a cheap general-purpose HF loop. Some people have criticized the performance of the amplifier.

Thanks for the insight. I'll remove the 450 from my list.

 

[UTE-GE]

Your going to pleased with the RSP1A and the support from the company. Your biggest choice now is the antenna.
A long wire is the easiest and you CAN use outside at your location. You just need to be stealthy. Of course I don't know the lay out of your location, but you can put it outside when you want to listen and bring it back in when done. Maybe if your clever you could keep it outside if hiden well, they are not easily seen.
Many options that you can figure out. You can buy a pre built for around $80 or buy the "stealth" wire roll and build your own.
All depends on you.

POLYS-26-FOOT Buy No. 26 Poly-Stealth Antenna Wire by the Foot

No. 26 Poly-Stealth Antenna Wire- strand copper clad steel, black abrasion resistant PE jacket. Often referred to as "kite wire". This tiny wire packs amazing strength into a small package. Excellent for backpacking. BACKORDERED

amateurradiosupplies.com

Ultimately though, for HF, you will want to keep your eyes peeled for an active loop. Sign up to QRZ.COM and watch the swap meet forum diligently and jump fast.

Bought my Par long wire from the original owner in 08(?) and slooped it at about 45degrees in a tree and was amazed pulling in Europe and at times the Mideast depending on conditions

The W6LVP loop is such a step up its not even close when it comes to noise floor. I can use it in the house with all the normal noise around and null it out. Outside is obviously ideal.

Also about the W6LVP, the owner is an true stand up person.
Mine got blown over one time and broke a BNC. I figuired i could open it up and fix it. Not possible due to all the heat absorbing "goop" he put in.

I contacted him and told him what happened.
So, what did he do? I sent in the old broken one and he sent me a brand new replacment for the cost of shipping.

 

[Omega-TI]

Your going to pleased with the RSP1A and the support from the company. Your biggest choice now is the antenna.
A long wire is the easiest and you CAN use outside at your location. You just need to be stealthy. Of course I don't know the lay out of your location, but you can put it outside when you want to listen and bring it back in when done. Maybe if your clever you could keep it outside if hiden well, they are not easily seen.
Many options that you can figure out. You can buy a pre built for around $80 or buy the "stealth" wire roll and build your own.
All depends on you.

POLYS-26-FOOT Buy No. 26 Poly-Stealth Antenna Wire by the Foot

No. 26 Poly-Stealth Antenna Wire- strand copper clad steel, black abrasion resistant PE jacket. Often referred to as "kite wire". This tiny wire packs amazing strength into a small package. Excellent for backpacking. BACKORDERED

amateurradiosupplies.com

Ultimately though, for HF, you will want to keep your eyes peeled for an active loop. Sign up to QRZ.COM and watch the swap meet forum diligently and jump fast.

Bought my Par long wire from the original owner in 08(?) and slooped it at about 45degrees in a tree and was amazed pulling in Europe and at times the Mideast depending on conditions

The W6LVP loop is such a step up its not even close when it comes to noise floor. I can use it in the house with all the normal noise around and null it out. Outside is obviously ideal.

Also about the W6LVP, the owner is an true stand up person.
Mine got blown over one time and broke a BNC. I figuired i could open it up and fix it. Not possible due to all the heat absorbing "goop" he put in.

I contacted him and told him what happened.
So, what did he do? I sent in the old broken one and he sent me a brand new replacment for the cost of shipping.

Do you have any recommendations on trustworthy places to purchase the RSP1 from? The SDRPlay site charges $33.07 for shipping, and then there could be a customs delay on top of that. I'm sure there is a cheaper and quicker alternative. I'm ready to order now.

 

[R0am3r]

You can purchase the SDRplay RSP1A with free shipping from Ham Radio Outlet. If you find another vendor, make sure you are buying the RSP1A (not the older RSP1). And avoid that Chinese knockoff copy of the RSP1. Purchase the genuine version of the RSP1A.

SDRplay SDRplay RSP1A

RSP1A - Radio Spectrum Processor 14 Bit SDR Receiver/includes SDR-UNO Software

www.hamradio.com

I don't believe the USB cable comes with the RSP1A. You will need a USB-B to USB-A cable. I recommend you purchase a cable with the built-in ferrite chokes.

Robot or human?

 

[KB2GOM]

Oh wow! Thank you for those links. I'll check them all out tomorrow. I'd like to today, but my honey wants me to give her attention tonight.

It occurs to me that velcro command strips could be just the thing for the window frame loop. The wire could be held in place by the velcro as I'm making each loop. What do you think, 100 or 200 feet of wire?

Not know the exact "geography" of your room, I would start with enough wire to cover the perimeter of your room, plus a lead-in to your SDR. My "horizontal room loop" runs around the perimeter of the room on the top of window frames and book shelves (you can see a photo in the link). The first attempt was done simply with masking tape. Later I used map pins, stuck into the tops of the window frames, to hold the wire in place. Velcro, however, sounds like it might be a really great idea.

For frequencies above 30 MHz, I can highly recommend Homebrewed Off-Center Fed Dipole - The RadioReference Wiki I have it hung vertically in a corner of the room, and it works like crazy as one enthusiast put it, "on most of the frequencies that scanner listeners are interested in."

 

[Omega-TI]

You can purchase the SDRplay RSP1A with free shipping from Ham Radio Outlet. If you find another vendor, make sure you are buying the RSP1A (not the older RSP1). And avoid that Chinese knockoff copy of the RSP1. Purchase the genuine version of the RSP1A.

SDRplay SDRplay RSP1A

RSP1A - Radio Spectrum Processor 14 Bit SDR Receiver/includes SDR-UNO Software

www.hamradio.com

I don't believe the USB cable comes with the RSP1A. You will need a USB-B to USB-A cable. I recommend you purchase a cable with the built-in ferrite chokes.

Robot or human?

Thanks, @KB2GOM I just ordered the cable & RSP1A from the links you posted. By buying from HRO instead of SDRPlay direct, I saved roughly $15.00 on the RSP1 more than enough to pay for the cable.

I appreciate you and everyone else's input and advice. It'll be fun to hook this baby up and retire the RTL-SDR.COM unit.

 

[dlwtrunked]

The 10MHz is just a starting point, I can always zoom in later, but that was a major factor in my decision making.

One of the things you want to note is that a screen display is usually limited to about 1024 pixels or similar. This means at 10 MHz, a resolution of about 10 kHz. So the software will need to do something like averaging which means weaker narrow signals will be hard to see. I find about 1 MHz on screen is about the most I would want with 10 MHz only nice for wide signals.

 

[UTE-GE]

HRO is a great place to work with.

Your going to have a blast when you get set up and going.

 

[Omega-TI]

One of the things you want to note is that a screen display is usually limited to about 1024 pixels or similar. This means at 10 MHz, a resolution of about 10 kHz. So the software will need to do something like averaging which means weaker narrow signals will be hard to see. I find about 1 MHz on screen is about the most I would want with 10 MHz only nice for wide signals.

True. My primary screen is 1920 X 1080 and I figured I would "zero in" once I find activity, but for finding where that activity is on HF will be nice... or so I think.

 

[Omega-TI]

HRO is a great place to work with.

Your going to have a blast when you get set up and going.

I think you're right! From what I've seen it looks super easy to set up. I got confirmation from both HRO and Walmart on my order. The power cord is set to arrive on the 12th, but if the RSP1 gets here earlier, I might just "borrow" one from one of my UPS's. I'm going to have to dig in my closet for the antenna that came with my RTL-SDR.COM unit as a make do until I decide on what I'm going to end up with. I also have an antenna switch somewhere as well that I'll put back into service. I've been rather lazy when it comes to unpacking some of my boxes after I moved into my retirement condo, so this will light the fire under my behind to start doing something about them... well at least until I find what I want... just being honest.

 

[UTE-GE]

well at least until I find what I want

 

[ka3jjz]

Keep in mind that any wire antenna that isn't a loop is going to be more noise-prone than a true loop. When working with indoor antennas, this is going to be a prime issue for you. As an aside, the YouLoop is intended to be used with SDRs since they've got a rather hot front end. A passive loop might just fit the bill for you, and as mentioned earlier, if you have the parts, it won't cost you anything to build. Active loops are fine, but they can overload the SDR, in which case you will again hear lots of noise.

Do you have a porch or balcony? If you're sticking with wire antennas, you can 'wire' it up as described here....

Guest Post: KK5JY’s Porch Loop Receiving Antenna

Many thanks to Matt Roberts (KK5JY) who has kindly given me permission to re-post the following article he recently published on his website KK5JY.net. Many thanks to SWLing Post contributor, Grayh…

swling.com

or this...

Build an affordable (but stealthy) Magnet Wire Vertical Loop antenna to mitigate condo QRM

Many thanks to SWLing Post contributor, TomL, who shares the following guest post: Magnet Wire Vertical Loop Antenna by TomL For those of you in a noisy condo like me, the environment does not give…

swling.com

And the official YouLoop site for the US, in case you don't have the parts (it's cheap)

YouLoop HF loop antenna – Airspy.US

v3.airspy.us

 

[WA8ZTZ]

The RSP1A has a SMA antenna connector.
SDRplay recommends a pigtail adapter to convert to a SO239.
The SO239 is a far more robust connector.

https://www.sdrplay.com/docs/RSP1Adatasheetv1.9.pdf