Bad Adapter ?

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GKolo

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I use a F to SO-239 into the bottom of my antenna, Its a RS brand, Can they go bad ? Mine is only about a year old but i have lost about 1/3 of my signal ??????
Just trying to trouble shoot before i change it out.



Thanks
 
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ermin

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I use a F to SO-239 into the bottom of my antenna, Its a RS brand, Can they go bad ? Mine is only about a year old but i have lost about 1/3 of my signal ??????
Just trying to trouble shoot before i change it out.

Thanks
Anything can go bad. Have you taken it apart to check for corrosion? Do you have a meter to check it? Check the coax going into the antenna and pl-259. One of the wires might of lost contact to the connector. A multi meter (available from RatShak for less than $23) can really help ou solve this.

73

Ermin
 

GKolo

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I have a new adapter from the shack already, I have asked Santa Claus for new coax.
Just was wondering if they can go bad ??
Of course i dont have a MultiMeter.
 

K9WG

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I assume this is an outside installation. If the connector/adapter is not sealed water can get into your coax and cause all kinds of problems. I have seen water go in several feet between the shield and center dielectric.
 

GKolo

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Yes it is outside way up on my massive antenna tower.....lol
I assume its water and your correct. When i take it down to replace the adapter and the coax i will use silicone and seal the dog snot out of it.

Santa Claus if your listening......COAX PLEASE !
 

Baskt_Case

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Yea, copper and water really dont get along well. Its plenty durable, but corrodes fast. I always use plain clear silicone, always have a tube of it around here, never any problems. I've cut open connections after years and everything is still nice and shiny.
 

GKolo

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Sure wish i had a coax crimping tool, I would take the extra 8 feet off the end of the coax off the end that is up now and see if that gets rid of the problem, Until i can order new.
What i need is a disgruntled cable tv employee who hates his boss and wants to help a brother out....lol
 

SCPD

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Weatherproofing RF connectors

This is the way I do it. This is a copy and paste of a word file I have had for several years now. Both of these 3M products are available at Lowes. I got nothing against Coax-Seal, the following is strickly the opinion of whoever wrote this article, please don't flame me. I have no idea what the "GBPPR" is, must be some sort of ham club:

Waterproofing RF connectors is a concept amateur radio operators fail to recognize. When you're dealing with weak signals or a repeater system with a dynamic range of 140 dB, that Radio Shack education just doesn't cut it.
There are alot of different ways to protect and waterproof your RF connections, some actually work!
Just because you've been doing something wrong for 30 years doesn't mean it's right!
All GBPPR members are required to follow this bulletin. If you put CoaxSeal directly on a RF connector, I will hunt you down and shoot you.
1. Wrap the entire connection once (or twice) with 3M Scotch Super 88 or 88T PVC electrical tape. Super 88 is recommended over Super 33 or the other crap because of its ideal temperature characteristics and the fact it's 20% thicker. Be sure to allow a significant overlap of each turn. It's also to best to wrap the tape up to connector, or the opposite way of intended water flow. This is done to prevent the electrical tape from wicking water in. You'll want to do this for each tape layer, if possible. Also, on the last turn, don't pull the tape hard, just leave it loose and press it down. This will help prevent it from unwrapping.
2. Make sure there are no air cavities or openings in the tape! Where there is air, there will be water.
3. Next, wrap the entire connection once (or twice) with 3M Scotch 2242 rubber electrical tape. Pull the tape so hard that it turns from black to gray, and wrap it tightly around the entire area previously covered with Super 88 electrical tape.
4. Wrap the the entire connection once (or twice) again with a layer of Super 88 electrical tape, just like in step one.
5. That's it! A fully waterproof seal, with the ability to remove the tape layers using nothing but a utility knife.
6. If you put CoaxSeal directly on a RF connector, I will hunt you down and shoot you.
7. If you put CoaxSeal directly on a RF connector, I will hunt you down and shoot you.
8. If you put CoaxSeal directly on a RF connector, I will hunt you down and shoot you.
It's often recommended that you spray clear-coat type sealants (Scotch-Kote) on your connection to make it waterproof. This is O.K. to some extent, but not recommdended as an end-all solution. These sealants contain acetone and other chemicals which can eat the rubber gaskets in N and Heliax connectors, along with the outer covering on some types of coax. They also break down in ultraviolet light (sun light), the sealant will then flake off. If you do need to use that type of sealant, for whatever reason, cover it with Super 88 electrical tape.
You can use spray clear-coat type sealants to waterproof non-critical connections, like to avoid dissimilar metal electrolysis, or in areas where it is just to hard to reach. Be sure to check the connection at least once a year though.
If you do need to use CoaxSeal, please apply a layer of electrical tape to the area first.
RF connections are somewhat waterproof to begin with, but wrapping the connection will help prevent the connection from coming loose due to vibration.
If the connection will be underground, you may want to apply Plasti Dip spray-on coating over the final tape layers.
It is better to be cautious and waterproof your connections on the ground in the summer than to stand around like an idiot in January wondering why nothing works
 

kb2vxa

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Makes better sense to use tape alone, the military uses it so if it's "mil spec" it must be the best. Wyandotte has it right, almost, the Army way takes it one essential step farther. When you spiral wrap overlapping turns and come to the end you're halfway there, spiral back over the first layer and don't stretch the last turn or it will slip under tension, unravel and fly in the breeze. Lay it at a 90 degree angle and wrap over itself, when the tape shrinks the tension won't reach that last turn and it will stick indefinitely. I've been doing it that way for more years than I want to remember and it has lasted for years.

Skip the silicone sealer, weather separates it from what it once covered, Coax Seal cracks and dog snot washes away in the first rain. Oh please, that Plasti-Dip may be a sure fire seal BUT you'll never get it off should the connection need servicing while the tape simply unwraps. One last bit of advice, cheap black vinyl electrical tape actually is best, it stretches easily while the 3M and other top of the line tapes are tough and tend to snap while you're wrestling with it.
 

K9WG

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Coax Seal cracks
I don't know what Coax Seal you used but I had mine up for 3 years in Indiana climate (90°+ in the summer to -10° in the winter) and I had one heck of a time removing it when I took the antenna down. The shell on the PL259 was just a shinny as the day I connected it.
 

KB5ILY

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i havent seen it at wallyworld, i am guessing hardware near the goop and sealers.
I have found it in the automotive section on the isle where the lights are. It will be around the tape (electrical, duct, etc).
 
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