SDS100/SDS200: Broken battery door clip due to large battery tightness

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2006walt

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This is off topic, however, I have to register the SDS100 and need the serial number. Is there a way to get the serial number from the SDS100 menu? Now that I have the large battery safely installed I hate to open the door and risk breaking the latch to get the serial number. I assume the S/N is inside at the battery compartment. Thanks
 

N8TXX

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Yes, Menu, Settings, See Scanner Information, Firmware Version (it shows firmware and serial number)
I'm with you, hate to touch it now, but if you do on a regular basis, I would have a spare on hand.
 

UnidenSupport

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Yes, Menu, Settings, See Scanner Information, Firmware Version (it shows firmware and serial number)
I'm with you, hate to touch it now, but if you do on a regular basis, I would have a spare on hand.
This is for the electronic serial number, not the serial number.
 

UPMan

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The ESN and SN are nearly identical except for the 4-6 digits. Where the SN has a "Z" the ESN has a "260".

Example:
SN 384Z88001234
ESN 38426088001234

So, you can easily derive the SN by looking at the ESN.
 

UPMan

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Registering the scanner (or any other product from any other manufacturer) does not create, instill, install, or preserve warranty. Only your original sales receipt does that.
 

TxScanner

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I always press down on the door very hard, when locking the latch. The door has foam on it, and if you dont press in on the door, good chance your going to break the latch. When you press the door in, it compresses the foam strips, and closes very easily.


Sent from my iPad Pro using Tapatalk Pro
 

TailGator911

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Also, fair warning - if you have the SDS100 hard leather case with a hole at the very bottom and you find your scanner to be a tight fit - DO NOT - put your finger in that hole and push as it is easy to forget about this flimsy clip and it will break easily. I didn't really even push that hard and it broke, but because it is so thin with no support behind it (a gap actually) it will snap in two so please be aware.

JD
kf4anc
 

rcool101

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Also, fair warning - if you have the SDS100 hard leather case with a hole at the very bottom and you find your scanner to be a tight fit - DO NOT - put your finger in that hole and push as it is easy to forget about this flimsy clip and it will break easily. I didn't really even push that hard and it broke, but because it is so thin with no support behind it (a gap actually) it will snap in two so please be aware.

JD
kf4anc
My Nylon case sticks too. What it is...is the plastic screen in front tends to stick together with the screen protector on the case. Loosen with your fingers and scanner comes right out after unsnapping the snap. Keep your finger out of that hole....LOL
 

dfw1193

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Well it has happened to me, the battery door clip has cracked and will no longer hold onto the battery door. Scanner has not been dropped, mishandled, knocked around, etc. I actually keep it in a case most of the time. I blame this pretty much on the extra "tightness" the large battery and new battery door had placed extra stress on the clip, thus making breakage more likely. Also the fact I would routinely change out the battery from large to small to get longer operating times and keeping both batteries charged. Creating more snapping and unsnapping of the clip.
As others have commented the pad inside is a bit thicker than the small battery door. Maybe for extra padding due to heavier battery? I realize its a size tolerance thing overall, but the fact exists that the large battery and door is a much tighter fit than the small battery & door.
Now I have a radio that will only work when plugged in cause neither door will stay on (at all). I guess I could use a plastic zip tie? Don't know if the clip is even avail, plus it looks like the radio has to be taken apart (looks easy enough) to replace due to pin running thru case holding clip in place. Hate to have to send it off for such, taking weeks to return.
Any comments?

Wrap it with electrical tape to hold the door on ... :-{
 

AvidHiker

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Pretty sure 3D printers for metals cost a small fortune, and the plastics that are used in the cheaper printers are not typically very strong.
 

mrkelso

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Anyone have a procedure for getting the old broken clip off? Does it require disassembly to get the bar out and take the clip off?
 

TailGator911

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But, the original snafu would still have to be reckoned with, when you open the scanner to install the 3d clip you void the warranty for any future repairs. It's more of an annoyance than anything else, so waiting out the warranty would be the way to go (for me, at least). I did a selfie repair that seemed to be holding, but has come unglued and now held together with black electrical tape. It's turned out to be a flimsy fix and I have re-wrapped it 3 times with a black fabric ponytail holder for a solid fix that keeps the battery and door seated perfectly. This method is holding fast and will last until whenever I decide to do the Uniden repair turnaround or they decide to sell these clips to their customers who are no longer in jeopardy of voiding their manufacturer's warranty. Whichever option proves feasible will work for me.

JD
kf4anc
 

TailGator911

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Hmm, I just found out (the hard way) that Gorilla Super Glue is nowhere near regular Super Glue. I bought a value-pak of sorts that had several different variants of Gorilla Glue including a small tube that read 'Super Glue' but had difficulty bonding with the broken plastic edges. I had to let it set a long time in order to solidify and it came undone way too easy to be called 'Super Glue'. I just re-performed Super Glue surgery with regular 'Crazy Glue' and voila! It seems to be holding nicely. Either 'Gorilla Super Glue' is very inferior to the original SG, or the Gorilla Glue Value Pack is severely outdated and expired. The regular SG is holding nice and solid. Now, set it and forget it. See what happens.

JD
kf4anc
 
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