Car Install Question

[ani216]

Hi Everyone,

I am new to this and i have a few questions. I am doing a mobile install in my car (2007 Chevy Aveo 4dr) consisting of:

1 Yaesu Mobile Ham Radio
1 Whelen 6 pack strobe controller
1 Blue Strobe Light
1 Wig Wag control unit

I am thinking about mounting a backboard on a hinge in the trunk so this way i can lift it up if i need to get my spare out. As far as the switches in the front i already have them mounted but with no wiring running to them.

The question is i am trying to figure out how to terminate the wiring into my trunk as that is where i would like to have everything. Should i use a relay? fuse blocks? Any help ESPECIALLY with pictures would help.

Thank you,

Andrew

 

[WX4EMT]

Andrew,
My only absolute in mobile wiring, "Everything MUST be fused". What I like to do is run big wire to the switch panel and sub unit (strobe pack, radio, controllers, etc.) and run little wire with relays between switch and what is being switched. This is for several reasons.
1 smaller diameter of wire mass running front to back.
2 lower ampearge in the control runs equal less fire danger
3 if designed right is quite expandable later on when you want more toys.

Also consider running all wires inside plastic "split loom" tubing to help protect the wires.

Here is an example:

 

[code3cowboy]

Running power to your trunk you will need to use a heaver gauge wire than you would think. A little extra will account for whatever line loss you have, and will provide the extra juice you need when a new cool toy comes in the mail and needs power with your code 3 stuff.

Take your big power and ground to a fuse panel like the one in the picture above, then use that to supply your relays.

I mount everything to a board and mount that board to the vehicle.

Also run a wire from your fuse panel ground stud to the chassis at the back of the vehicle even though you have a wire from the panel to the battery. Just a little insurance.

Use a multiple conductor wire between your switches and relay board, it makes everything easier.

 

[WX4EMT]

Wiring

Well said Cowboy! As you can see from the pic above I covered up the primary wires with tape to prevent an accidental shorting because #4 wire will carry a LOT of juice. This is all ran off of the 30 amp accessory lug that GM so generously provides. Sure it's fused but 30 amps is a lot of current to heat things up with before the fuse lets go. This configuration powered 2 100 + watt Motorola Syntors without a hitch even WITH siren running.

Safety and adequate wiring cannot be over stressed. Besides, having a trick setup is all well and good but if you have a *****in' heavy duty wiring system running everything----- It'll be really trick! And SAFE!

 

[brentoli]

Do you fuse your ground wire if its going to the chassis?

 

[WX4EMT]

Fuse the ground side

Do you fuse your ground wire if its going to the chassis?

I have gotten into some heated debates about this very topic, truthfully, I can see the arguments for both sides but personally I don't do it.

Pro's: Immediate protection for reverse hookups
Protects other components during heavy static discharge (lightning)
Isolates component completely

Con's; Unnecessarily redundant
Costs more
Takes more time to set up / install
Components are allmost ALWAYS otherwise grounded making ground side fuse pointless.

Conclusion: Don't waste your time installing ground side fuses just be careful when hooking up components NOT to reverse wire them and stay away from lightning.

 

[ka8ypy]

From an installers standpoint:

Run a heavy gauge power wire from the battery to a high amp fuse or circuit breaker as close to the battery as possible (50 Amps plus depending on the toys you plan to play with), then run the power to the rear where you will have all of your electronics (except the HL Flasher).

Use a fused distribution block such as one in the pic above, one with a ground distribution would be even better.

Add relays for those items that do not have a relay already built into them (the strobe pack and the wig wag will already have these).

For items not mounted in the rear, place a fuse as close to the power source as possible. (the wig wag, which should go under the hood).

Is the Blue strobe a stand alone or powered off of the strobe supply?

Use copious amounts of split loom, electrical tape to seal the ends, and tie wraps.

Make sure all ground points are factory, if not, ensure that you are grounding to bare metal.

Dan
Slick Top Solutions

 

[ofd8001]

I agree with all that has been said above, and adding the following. On our department cars, we also run a large (#8) ground wire directly from the negative terminal back to the trunk, which is where we have all of our equipment. It is probably redundant, but chasis grounds can be funny at times. So in addition to the chassis ground, we have that ground going back to the battery. As time goes along and corrosion cab build up and grounds vibrate loose.

There's a high temperature type of wiring that we have come to love. It is easy to work with and to dress-up.

You may wish to consider the use of a color code, particularly if some wires are always hot and others hot on ignition, some are not hot at all, etc.