Chevy Silverado 2014 Install

[enine]

What is the battery charger your using? Do you have just one battery?
I run dual batteries but am finding that my shorter drives now they are not staying topped off.

 

[sfd119]

What is the battery charger your using? Do you have just one battery?
I run dual batteries but am finding that my shorter drives now they are not staying topped off.

I thought about dual batteries as the Silverado has a second battery tray. In my old truck I ran one and never really had any issue other than having to replace it sooner than most.

I use a NOCO Genius GEN1 10 Amp 1-Bank Waterproof Smart On-Board Battery Charger. They make them with the option to charge up to four batteries but I just went with one. I used a marker LED light as the "charging" indicator and tied it in with a 120v ac to 12v dc adapter.

 

[03msc]

This is one of those installs that needs a walk-around video tour of the outside (+ lighting) and then the interior "in action". It's just that good.

 

[enine]

Yea, I'm burning through two batteries every two years, kind of pricey.

I used to have a diode isolator but one post rusted off and NAPA had the voltage controlled separators (big reply) in stock so I used it. I think the batteries lasted longer with the isolator though.

 

[KG5KS]

Great looking install, what were the console model numbers anyway ? I have 2015 gmc sierra with 3 radio console and have out grown it. I guess you took out your middle seat/console to get this in.
Thank you
73
Kenny

 

[yaknamedjak]

How do you handle power-down on the 536HP?

Thanks

 

[sfd119]

How do you handle power-down on the 536HP?

Thanks

I don't. It stays in the on position and powers up and down with the rest of the console. I have no notable problems from doing this for two years. The only annoyance I have is I wish when I turned the truck back on (just leaving it off for a few minutes to get fuel) is it reboots the scanner because of the voltage drop. I'm still looking into some fixes on this though.

Great looking install, what were the console model numbers anyway ? I have 2015 gmc sierra with 3 radio console and have out grown it. I guess you took out your middle seat/console to get this in.
Thank you
73
Kenny

It's a Gamber Johnson Vehicle specific, model 7170-0237-02. I did take out the middle seat and the console uses those bolts.

 

[yaknamedjak]

I don't. It stays in the on position and powers up and down with the rest of the console. I have no notable problems from doing this for two years. The only annoyance I have is I wish when I turned the truck back on (just leaving it off for a few minutes to get fuel) is it reboots the scanner because of the voltage drop. I'm still looking into some fixes on this though.

Great to hear, thanks. The XTLs reboot as well, though, right? Just like any car stereo does when you go from acc->start.

Thanks

 

[safetyobc]

Very nice job!

 

[tcm4368]

Very nice. Love the craftsmanship.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[sfd119]

Great to hear, thanks. The XTLs reboot as well, though, right? Just like any car stereo does when you go from acc->start.

Thanks

No, just the 536HP reboots. When starting the truck, voltages will dip to 10-11 volts, everything else runs fine at that for the split second it drops. The 536HP is a sensitive creature that needs 12v at ALL TIMES other wise it will reboot. There's a thread here about it that discusses some possible solutions.

 

[yaknamedjak]

So I bought the same switch you did, have the chargeguard and bluesea box. I bought the version of the switch that can be surface mounted. How did you mount yours? And then how does the power cable physically go from the firewall to the switch? Not sure if I should try to flush mount the switch since then the power lead would run into the console, to the switch bolts which would be in it, but then would have to come back out of the console to the chargeguard since I want that accessible. Also what guage did you run between switch and chargeguard?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[sfd119]

So I bought the same switch you did, have the chargeguard and bluesea box. I bought the version of the switch that can be surface mounted. How did you mount yours? And then how does the power cable physically go from the firewall to the switch? Not sure if I should try to flush mount the switch since then the power lead would run into the console, to the switch bolts which would be in it, but then would have to come back out of the console to the chargeguard since I want that accessible. Also what guage did you run between switch and chargeguard?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I used industrial strength double sided tape to mount the Bluesea master switch. It's affixed to the console close to the bottom where the wires come out of the console to it. Since I do not use the master switch frequently, I'm not worried about it coming loose. It's pretty snug there.

In the past I was able to run a master power wire through the firewall with other wires. I cut into the boot and pulled it in there...it was a time consuming process. The 14 Silverado has a grommet in the door that I used for my main power wire and some other accessory lights. It will not get damaged there and there has been no water intrusion. I did not have to take the dash apart either. If you look up underneath where that grommet comes in, you can see it. I routed the master power down and above the dash where there are some other wires. It's out of the way and secured. Here's more info: Easy wires through firewall, thought I'd share - 2014 / 2015 / 2016 Silverado & Sierra Accessories & Modifications - GM-Trucks.com

As for the power wire, I used 8 gauge wire from the battery to the master switch. I also used the 8 gauge power wire from the master switch to the ChargeGuard and from the ChargeGuard to the BlueSea fuse box. The max voltage going through there would be one XTL radio transmitting at high power and that uses an 8 gauge. It's fused at the battery with a 30 amp fuse. I have had no issues.

 

[yaknamedjak]

I used industrial strength double sided tape to mount the Bluesea master switch. It's affixed to the console close to the bottom where the wires come out of the console to it. Since I do not use the master switch frequently, I'm not worried about it coming loose. It's pretty snug there.





As for the power wire, I used 8 gauge wire from the battery to the master switch. I also used the 8 gauge power wire from the master switch to the ChargeGuard and from the ChargeGuard to the BlueSea fuse box. The max voltage going through there would be one XTL radio transmitting at high power and that uses an 8 gauge. It's fused at the battery with a 30 amp fuse. I have had no issues.

Thanks a lot for all the detail. So the "in" (from the blu sea switch) and "out"(to the fusebox) leads to to the chargeguard are actually both in that large split loom in the photo, just incidvidually loomed within? Is that accurate?


Thanks again


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[sfd119]

Yes, they are both in the split loom. I believe it's 1/2" or 3/4" split loom. Hard to see in the photo but the wire going into the master switch come from the bottom of the console and up into the master.

 

[quarterwave]

Is the shore line plug auto-eject on key?
Where did you source it?

 

[sfd119]

Shore power is not an auto eject.

 

[omrail]

very impressive

 

[WD4JKH]

Is the shore line plug auto-eject on key?
Where did you source it?

We have used these type in the past. The eject trigger is connected to the starter, not the key/ignition.

Kussmaul Electronics Super Auto Ejects

 

[WD4JKH]

Nice installation!