• To anyone looking to acquire commercial radio programming software:

    Please do not make requests for copies of radio programming software which is sold (or was sold) by the manufacturer for any monetary value. All requests will be deleted and a forum infraction issued. Making a request such as this is attempting to engage in software piracy and this forum cannot be involved or associated with this activity. The same goes for any private transaction via Private Message. Even if you attempt to engage in this activity in PM's we will still enforce the forum rules. Your PM's are not private and the administration has the right to read them if there's a hint to criminal activity.

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    To obtain Motorola software see the Sticky in the Motorola forum.

    The various other vendors often permit their dealers to sell the software online (i.e., Kenwood). Please use Google or some other search engine to find a dealer that sells the software. Typically each series or individual radio requires its own software package. Often the Kenwood software is less than $100 so don't be a cheapskate; just purchase it.

    For M/A Com/Harris/GE, etc: there are two software packages that program all current and past radios. One package is for conventional programming and the other for trunked programming. The trunked package is in upwards of $2,500. The conventional package is more reasonable though is still several hundred dollars. The benefit is you do not need multiple versions for each radio (unlike Motorola).

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Fun with the Railroad Astro Spectra

AM909

Radio/computer geek
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Joined
Dec 10, 2015
Messages
1,369
Location
SoCal
I assume the A/D button toggles the A and D LEDs in the display? How about re-purposing one of those LEDs for a really clean solution?

Or are there maybe translucent replacements for the hole plugs around the A/D button, either for light-up buttons or indicators (maybe even one pre-printed MON or BUSY)?

One random component source shows a 5 mm LED drawing 15 mA having a voltage drop of about 3.4V. So, hook up a resistor from 13.8 V to the LED anode (usually the longer lead) and an active-low COR/TOR/TOS signal to the LED cathode (shorter lead from flattened side of lens). The resistor would be about (13.8 - 3.4) / 0.015 = 693 ohms. A 750 ohm, 1/4-watt should work. This assumes the COR can deliver at least 15 mA and is OK with being pulled up to the 13.8V supply.
 
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