Hello newbie to site. I have a cobra 29 ltd classic cb on a 21 Peter built 389 with a co-phase setup. I’m upgrading the stock antennas to Wilson 2000’s. I will be picking up astatic PDC1 meter to tune my radio. My cb is encased to overhead and will be a more work to take down and put meter between cb and y cable. Can I disconnect right side antenna and just let cable hang and put the meter on the left side between y cable and antenna and tune 1 antenna and then repeat on opposite side tuning antennas 1 at a time or will it not work since cable is open? Or is it just stupid to do that way. I’m new to this but very easily taught but can’t find answer to my exact question so trusting u guys. Any input greatly appreciated thanks
-
To anyone looking to acquire commercial radio programming software:
Please do not make requests for copies of radio programming software which is sold (or was sold) by the manufacturer for any monetary value. All requests will be deleted and a forum infraction issued. Making a request such as this is attempting to engage in software piracy and this forum cannot be involved or associated with this activity. The same goes for any private transaction via Private Message. Even if you attempt to engage in this activity in PM's we will still enforce the forum rules. Your PM's are not private and the administration has the right to read them if there's a hint to criminal activity.
If you are having trouble legally obtaining software please state so. We do not want any hurt feelings when your vague post is mistaken for a free request. It is YOUR responsibility to properly word your request.
To obtain Motorola software see the Sticky in the Motorola forum.
The various other vendors often permit their dealers to sell the software online (i.e., Kenwood). Please use Google or some other search engine to find a dealer that sells the software. Typically each series or individual radio requires its own software package. Often the Kenwood software is less than $100 so don't be a cheapskate; just purchase it.
For M/A Com/Harris/GE, etc: there are two software packages that program all current and past radios. One package is for conventional programming and the other for trunked programming. The trunked package is in upwards of $2,500. The conventional package is more reasonable though is still several hundred dollars. The benefit is you do not need multiple versions for each radio (unlike Motorola).
This is a large and very visible forum. We cannot jeopardize the ability to provide the RadioReference services by allowing this activity to occur. Please respect this.
Help tuning co-phase antenna
- Thread starter Joshwyle
- Start date
If the antennas are new they should be identical and resonate below mid band or ch19 area. If so yo trim the same amount off each antenna and walk them into the best match around ch19, etc. You want to tune them as a pair with the co-phasing harness connected.You can’t disconnect one and use the other with the co-phasing harness connected. I used to keep an 18ft length of RG58 around with a connector on one end and lugs on the other end for tuning the whips with mounts individually on troublesome installs.
That’s kinda what I figured. So if I put meter between cb and y then trim equally. They are new and seem really long. They appear to stick a bit higher than trailer so I’m sure a good bit will need to come off. I’ve read on some sites that having it higher than trailer would get best distance/reception but don’t understand how that could be done if u trim for swr? I definitely want to get as much distance as possible. Do any of my settings (squelch, rf gain) need to be in any certain position?
Also cb has set meter. I know they aren’t reliable but do they hv to be set for proper function
And there is not a am/fm antenna so I’m assuming it’s integrated into the antennas aswell. I may be wrong. Trying to learn at fast pace lol
Also cb has set meter. I know they aren’t reliable but do they hv to be set for proper function
And there is not a am/fm antenna so I’m assuming it’s integrated into the antennas aswell. I may be wrong. Trying to learn at fast pace lol
slowmover
Active Member
You aren’t going to change antenna length very much. A 53’ van is usually 13’3”. Antennas to 14’ works fine. It’s my goal to get closest to that.
Away from buildings and other trucks. No powrtlines. Keep doors shut and hood closed.
I then get out and get both antennas on ground to measure and adjust whips.
Wilson 5000 or 2000 needs two small drain holes opposite one another on bottom drilled into coil plastic. Condensation is otherwise a problem.
Use correct wrench size, not vise-grip. Etc.
Once good take down again and test for being snug overall. Clean stud befote back into mounts (alcohol, similar).
After, cover connections with silicone RESCUE TAPE then a couple layers of Scotch 88 or whatever you have. Secure with zip tie.
Be aware that ice is a problem come winter. Get it off (gently) before hitting road.
Be regular about removal and cleaning. 3-4/times year is good. Blue Beacon can’t get it all. Polish up with some FLITZ.
Now you have an average radio system. If you want something that performs, start reading in this sub-forum. What you don’t hear — and who can’t hear you — exceeds what you presently can expect.
Good luck!
Away from buildings and other trucks. No powrtlines. Keep doors shut and hood closed.
I then get out and get both antennas on ground to measure and adjust whips.
Wilson 5000 or 2000 needs two small drain holes opposite one another on bottom drilled into coil plastic. Condensation is otherwise a problem.
Use correct wrench size, not vise-grip. Etc.
Once good take down again and test for being snug overall. Clean stud befote back into mounts (alcohol, similar).
After, cover connections with silicone RESCUE TAPE then a couple layers of Scotch 88 or whatever you have. Secure with zip tie.
Be aware that ice is a problem come winter. Get it off (gently) before hitting road.
Be regular about removal and cleaning. 3-4/times year is good. Blue Beacon can’t get it all. Polish up with some FLITZ.
Now you have an average radio system. If you want something that performs, start reading in this sub-forum. What you don’t hear — and who can’t hear you — exceeds what you presently can expect.
Good luck!
Last edited:
slowmover
Active Member
The AM/FM is part of OEM antenna spec. Coax runs thru a multiplexer.
High perf CB would start with quality coax (OEM isn’t). CB-only.
It would also need separate antenna mounts to go on the arms (factory isn’t very strong; be careful with those 5000’s on mirror heads).
The KW mounts on lower arms is best among all types.
Solving AM/FM becomes a separate issue. Dedicated antenna plus its own coax.
Doing both of these would increase performance of CB and the AM/FM.
On this 379 it’s near roof center, front. Single CB on back of sleeper is only okay (roof best) and only works with flat or low tanker.
Most men won’t want the expense and headaches. For those that do, mobile CB becomes something others won’t believe when you try to tell them.
Add a KL203 for a taste.
In big trucks, using a large car is cheating as it’s easier.
Whom it is owns that tractor determines much.
.
High perf CB would start with quality coax (OEM isn’t). CB-only.
Bob's CB (TGT-RG59-18CQ-Y-NIP) - Co-Phase, RG-59AU Coax, Black, Amphenol PL-259 Connector(s), FME Rotating Nipple Female Crimp(s) with Co-Phase Y-Adapter, 18ft, Coaxial Cable
Bob's CB (TGT-RG59-18CQ-Y-NIP) - Co-Phase, RG-59AU Coax, Black, Amphenol PL-259 Connector(s), FME Rotating Nipple Female Crimp(s) with Co-Phase Y-Adapter, 18ft, Coaxial Cable in Coaxial Cable
www.bobscb.com
It would also need separate antenna mounts to go on the arms (factory isn’t very strong; be careful with those 5000’s on mirror heads).
The KW mounts on lower arms is best among all types.
Solving AM/FM becomes a separate issue. Dedicated antenna plus its own coax.
Doing both of these would increase performance of CB and the AM/FM.
On this 379 it’s near roof center, front. Single CB on back of sleeper is only okay (roof best) and only works with flat or low tanker.
Most men won’t want the expense and headaches. For those that do, mobile CB becomes something others won’t believe when you try to tell them.
Add a KL203 for a taste.
In big trucks, using a large car is cheating as it’s easier.
Whom it is owns that tractor determines much.
.
Last edited:
slowmover
Active Member
Do any of my settings (squelch, rf gain) need to be in any certain position?
SQ off
RF Gain down
Mic Gain, down
Talkback, off
Radio Volume, down.
Use a multi-meter to test Voltage. At key-up with engine idling (once the rest is good) want to see no more than a 1/2V drop. Turned back up.
More than that and it’s Power to BATT and NEG to closest GRND for best practice. Fuse POS only.
Fuse tap is the usual 1/2-step that’ll work okay. But it’s not quiet in high performance terms.
At Box under drivers foot if they still have it there. 12-AWG Marine (tinned copper, high strand count). That’ll also run the KL203 (88 Radio).
This speaker up above drivers left ear. (BOBS CB, also).
With what you have and these you’ll find that CB traffic will jump out better. Antenna is biggest part.
Also,
ASTATIC 636 mic or DX-956 mic.
Better radio, someday, and additional noise-quieting is where things change to 21st Century.
The above is about as far as most guys take it.
Change to a GALAXY DX-959 for the best of the old school CBs as it includes Sideband. Some just don’t want modern.
Modern = similar $$, but vast performance increase as DSP filter uncovers what radio receives, but can’t clean up understandably. Benefits go on from there.
.
SQ off
RF Gain down
Mic Gain, down
Talkback, off
Radio Volume, down.
Use a multi-meter to test Voltage. At key-up with engine idling (once the rest is good) want to see no more than a 1/2V drop. Turned back up.
More than that and it’s Power to BATT and NEG to closest GRND for best practice. Fuse POS only.
Fuse tap is the usual 1/2-step that’ll work okay. But it’s not quiet in high performance terms.
At Box under drivers foot if they still have it there. 12-AWG Marine (tinned copper, high strand count). That’ll also run the KL203 (88 Radio).
This speaker up above drivers left ear. (BOBS CB, also).
With what you have and these you’ll find that CB traffic will jump out better. Antenna is biggest part.
Also,
ASTATIC 636 mic or DX-956 mic.
Better radio, someday, and additional noise-quieting is where things change to 21st Century.
The above is about as far as most guys take it.
Change to a GALAXY DX-959 for the best of the old school CBs as it includes Sideband. Some just don’t want modern.
Modern = similar $$, but vast performance increase as DSP filter uncovers what radio receives, but can’t clean up understandably. Benefits go on from there.
.
Last edited:
AB5ID
Member
If you have access to a small dummy load, you can disconnect one antenna and connect it to the dummy load. Then, you can go ahead and tune the active antenna. Afterward, swap the dummy load to the other side and tune the remaining antenna. This can all be done using the built-in SWR meter on the Cobra 29 Classic.
slowmover
Active Member
Up to that height works for highway. I’ve no problem with it over quite a few years.
Height is Might.
Point is, short antennas give up performance.
Clearances marked 13’5” usually have some give in that.
If you wind up above 13-5 some, you’ll be fine. Much taller than 14’ is where problems come in.
Your 2000 model Wilson’s will work out height-wise once tuned. Won’t take much (adjust height via set screws adjusting whip length).
Trees are trimmed to 15’ nationwide to ensure that fire trucks can get to locations. But it’s best to avoid lane next to big old trees. Branches droop after rain and especially with snow/ice.
Replacement whips are sold online and at Petro/TA. Inspect for other damage and keep on.
As to “got some”, re-read. DIY beats paying a tech who has to work fast. No one wants to pay for the time it takes to do things right. Same for upgrades. You want, To Hear and Get Heard?
The guys on TruckerReport give advice for dumb guys as that’s the audience, even though plenty of them know more.
The average truck driver radio rig is poor. Barely gets out much over a mile or two. You choose which guy you’ll be, and how important is communications with everyone around you.
There are levels of performance. Better antennas is right start, and adding external speaker is a minimum that will help you hear better. You’ll find it a pleasant first step.
The guys who then add a big amp after that have no clue of what matters. Better performance upgrades are available to extend reach of whom you can hear, and, in turn, who can hear you.
Won’t find it on YouTube as a How To.
.
Last edited:
slowmover
Active Member
Don’t need to worry this. Just mount and go thru tuning steps. Point is that they won’t be too tall, which is what some might try to tell you.
The antenna is already the correct length for its design. Tuning changes are minor.
How high is the top of the mirror? 8.5-9’? Then it’ll be right at the mark given the 10” lower shaft as it’s 5’ tall.
You’ll see this antenna set on other trucks like your own. I ran a set on a 579 for a long time, and before that on a 367.
There’s a shorter lower shaft (5”), but I doubt you’d want or need it. Getting the coil up a little high works well.
.
The antenna is already the correct length for its design. Tuning changes are minor.
How high is the top of the mirror? 8.5-9’? Then it’ll be right at the mark given the 10” lower shaft as it’s 5’ tall.
You’ll see this antenna set on other trucks like your own. I ran a set on a 579 for a long time, and before that on a 367.
There’s a shorter lower shaft (5”), but I doubt you’d want or need it. Getting the coil up a little high works well.
.
Last edited:
slowmover
Active Member
You're welcome.
Thx for measurement. That makes it 13’ 5” +/-.
Off to a good start. Should you want to step it up again, you know where to go.
.
Last edited:
slowmover
Active Member
1.0?
1.2 to 1.4 is considered very good.
1.5 - 2.0 is acceptable (no worry, but try re-tune)
2.0 and above isn’t good.
www.wearecb.com
1.2 to 1.4 is considered very good.
1.5 - 2.0 is acceptable (no worry, but try re-tune)
2.0 and above isn’t good.
How to Tune a CB Antenna | CB World
In this article, we show you how to set the SWR on a CB radio antenna, offering step-by-step instruction, whether your antenna comes with an SWR meter or not.
www.wearecb.com
It’s better to use an antenna analyzer to see way outside the CB band so you know right away if it’s a tuning/length problem or something worse like a short, etc. If you see a legitimate 10:1 match on ch 1 and 40 then it’s probably not a tuning problem.
slowmover
Active Member
Walcott Radio
(Walcott, IA; across 80 from IOWA 80 truckstop).
Overclocked Radio
Gary, IN (at T/A; off 80)
Bobs CB
Strattanville, PA (just over line from Ohio; off 70)
Be aware these retail stores may not work on trucks. Called, “outside work”. Just the radios, in shop. All are good. I’ve used them all.
www.rightchannelradios.com
www.rightchannelradios.com
www.rightchannelradios.com
It’s not an antenna length problem. I suspect antenna stud questions. (E-Z to get wrong, I’ve done it several times.)
.
(Walcott, IA; across 80 from IOWA 80 truckstop).
Overclocked Radio
Gary, IN (at T/A; off 80)
Bobs CB
Strattanville, PA (just over line from Ohio; off 70)
Be aware these retail stores may not work on trucks. Called, “outside work”. Just the radios, in shop. All are good. I’ve used them all.
High SWR Troubleshooting Guide
Can't get your CB antenna's SWR within a reasonable range? Going crazy trying to troubleshoot the problem? Our guide can help.
www.rightchannelradios.com
How to Identify a Faulty SWR Meter
While rare, a defective SWR meter can wreak havoc on your CB troubleshooting efforts. This article discusses how to determine if a faulty SWR meter is to blame for high SWR.
www.rightchannelradios.com
How to Troubleshoot the Stud Washer
The CB antenna stud washer, when improperly installed, can result in high SWR and poor transmit and receive performance! Make sure yours is properly installed.
www.rightchannelradios.com
It’s not an antenna length problem. I suspect antenna stud questions. (E-Z to get wrong, I’ve done it several times.)
.
Last edited:
