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Help with antenna placement on 2024 F450

mmckenna

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Absolutely. You guys have been awesome. Once I'm complete I'll try to do a video or lots of pictures and document the process for others to use and learn from. It's all about giving back, not just taking. Thanks!

That would be appreciated, thanks.
I had a 2018 F350 as a personal truck, and a 2017 F350 as a work truck. Installation was easy on those.

I've got a 2025 F-250 on order for personal use. I'll be moving my radios over. I was going through the Ford Upfitter/body builder guides the last few evening looking to see what's changed since 2018. Looks similar enough. But extra photos/info is always welcome.
 

sumradioguy

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Joined
Oct 12, 2024
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I ordered the service manual from HELM, but it won’t be here until tomorrow. I’ve also got the Body Builders Layout, but it’s pretty sparse on schematics and doesn’t explain how to remove most of the trim. So, I’m on YouTube, checking how others have done it until that $330 USD service manual arrives (ugh, costly, but worth it.)

I’ve tackled nearly every piece of trim on this truck, and let me tell you, some pieces are almost impossible to remove without causing at least a little damage. The A-frame handles are the worst, closely followed by those coat hangers in the back.

If you’ve got the upfitter package, I’ve found a solid way to run a wire from the upfitter fuse box into the truck. I'll document it for anyone who needs it. Sure, you could use fuse taps, but I didn't want to risk introducing crosstalk into my +12V rail, so I went with a 10AWG line from the battery. Some people use an unused PTO wire in the dash, but it’s only 22AWG. Even though the radio doesn’t pull more than 1.5A, I’d rather not use that small of a wire for power. But hey, that’s me—I’m a bit OCD regarding electronics, especially wiring and routing. Lastly, there are 4 passthrough wires somewhere in the dash people have found, but they are really small as well. They COULD handle the 1.5A load most radios will use, but I still decided to run the 10awg dedicated power wire instead.

I’ll be mounting the radio in the center tray and will fabricate a mount to make it sit flush. Bulletproof offers a mount that does the job too, but it’ll set you back about $100.

All that said, Ford has done an excellent job with the wiring harnesses and electronics in these new Superduties. I'm extremely anal about my wiring and quality of work, and Ford has impressed me so much that I had to level up my work to match theirs. You'll be impressed as well with the quality Ford puts out in the new trucks.
 

mmckenna

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If you’ve got the upfitter package, I’ve found a solid way to run a wire from the upfitter fuse box into the truck. I'll document it for anyone who needs it. Sure, you could use fuse taps, but I didn't want to risk introducing crosstalk into my +12V rail, so I went with a 10AWG line from the battery.

On all the other Ford Super Duties, I always run a 6 gauge from the battery + terminal to a 60 amp circuit breaker, then 6 gauge to behind the seat. That connects to an ATO fuse block. I then feed the radios from that.
While the individual radios don't pull 60 amps, in the work truck, one radio pulls under 15 amps, the other pulls around 20 amps. Since they both support trunking, it's a realistic expectation that they can both be transmitting at the same time, at full power. I always add more capacity than what I need, and some extra fuse positions for expansion. On the work truck, I'm running the amber LED strobe off the same feed.

All that said, Ford has done an excellent job with the wiring harnesses and electronics in these new Superduties. I'm extremely anal about my wiring and quality of work, and Ford has impressed me so much that I had to level up my work to match theirs. You'll be impressed as well with the quality Ford puts out in the new trucks.

Yeah, they did a nice job on these trucks, at least on the 17 and 18's I've worked on. Having multiple available power sources for different needs is handy. There's a 5 amp circuit taped off behind the passenger kick plate that is hot on start/run that I've used for driving the timer relays that power up the radios when running. The timer keeps the radio on for 30 minutes after ignition/retained accessory power shuts down.

I never tap existing wiring on any of my trucks unless the circuit is specifically designed for it. Never had an issue with RFI or other problems. Takes longer to do it right, but in all my years of doing it this way, I've never had a failure.

These full size trucks are probably some of the easiest vehicles to install in.

Sounds like you are doing it right. That'll make a big difference in performance and reliability. Far too many hobbyists take the quick/easy way out, but pulling trim/running wires absolutely is not in everyone's skill set.
 

slowmover

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Pulling interior not for the faint-of-heart. There are those who employ a body shop to do this as it’s bread-and-butter in their line of work (added for those reading along and feeling daunted).

My son has a 2024 Ram 3500. While there are plenty of differences, I’ve found it useful to look across other brands as this has been part of my experience with Kenworth, Peterbilt, Freightliner and Navistar. Am linking this that he keeps up with your work.

His will be at FT-891 Yaesu and little Tarheel.

.
 

sumradioguy

Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2024
Messages
18
A quick question. Wouldn't a large 36"x24" sheet of aluminum bolted to my headache rack be better than the small 16" (long) x 48" (wide) area behind my moonroof? Assume all pieces of metal are properly grounded. 1.jpeg2.jpeg3.jpegI have the piece so I'm going to use a thick nmo mount and try it.

Again, I don't mind drilling the hole in the third brake light area - I even have the tape and measurement on top ready.. but since I have this large piece of aluminum, why not try it?

Obviously it looks ugly right now, but I'd fabricate it, round out the corners, paint it black, etc.

Thoughts?
 

RFI-EMI-GUY

Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Messages
7,350
A quick question. Wouldn't a large 36"x24" sheet of aluminum bolted to my headache rack be better than the small 16" (long) x 48" (wide) area behind my moonroof? Assume all pieces of metal are properly grounded. View attachment 171823View attachment 171824View attachment 171825I have the piece so I'm going to use a thick nmo mount and try it.

Again, I don't mind drilling the hole in the third brake light area - I even have the tape and measurement on top ready.. but since I have this large piece of aluminum, why not try it?

Obviously it looks ugly right now, but I'd fabricate it, round out the corners, paint it black, etc.

Thoughts?
You might want to give this article a read:



1730236036285.png
 

slowmover

Active Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2020
Messages
2,634
Location
Fort Worth
I’m liking this guy more & more.

Ideas:

IMG_6661.jpeg

A rear-of-the-cab-roof spoiler is indicated for cleaner airflow.

IMG_6663.jpeg

Simple Wing

or
Wing + Cover
Clarification is that pickup bed on latter has a half-cover extending from tailgate towards cab. The open area equalizes pressure on both sides of the tailgate.

IMG_6664.jpeg


Whether or not an aero fabrication produces lower fuel burn it will have these two tendencies as confirmation of being “correct”:

1). Ride noises will subside.
2). Crosswinds-handling will improve.


— Fuel Economy is a half-century interest of mine. I spec’d my pickup to maximize this as leverage to driving skill improvements which is the actual key.

Men lie about MPG
Yes, I understate it.

.
 
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