Kenwood radio Power issue

[nick223]

I have a TK 7360 or 7180 model number slips my mind right now.
Anyways, I have 2 in a console one of them in the last week loses power upon key up when emergency lights activated or that’s how I got it to shutoff and the radio doesn’t turn back on. The way it turned back on for me is when I started to unscrew the console ( maybe lose wire) It then turned back on.

This was a factory install job just for an fyi

I looked to see if The antenna was on the rig.It was. (Did a radio check it was good)
I tighten up all the ground screws behind the driver seat
Checked the coax and antenna connection to the radio it was good and secured.

checked the power coming out or the radio it looked good.
radio looks fine doesn’t look like anything was spilled on it.


closed the console back up. Started to key up the radio , vehicle off, vehicle on, lights off, lights on, shoreline plugged in and not. Everything working just fine.

Just had one of those feeling so I opened up the console again playing around with the wire and the radio reset Again coming back on.

so I replaced the crimp connection.

Button up the console and did all the testing again and ita working. Still no issue yet with powering off or resetting

I just wasn’t sure If someone had an idea or a suggested if it happens again.
I’ll add some pictures

 

[kd4efm]

a loose or bad ground can sometimes cause the radio to reboot, I have even seen this with a loose pl259 and good grounds...
I have had my nx5700 with a loose antenna connection, cause my whole tri-deck to reboot.

Check your grounds and make sure you have a good antenna ground also.

 

[KK6ZTE]

a loose or bad ground can sometimes cause the radio to reboot, I have even seen this with a loose pl259 and good grounds...
I have had my nx5700 with a loose antenna connection, cause my whole tri-deck to reboot.

Check your grounds and make sure you have a good antenna ground also.

Absolutely, it sounds like the ground wire for the console is overloaded or the nut is loose (Troy consoles have short studs for ground that still need an actual chassis ground connection, the mounting bolts aren't sufficient.) Typically, if it was just the radio ground, the siren/lighting being on wouldn't affect it. Fiberglass roof with NGP antennas?

Is this a LEADER installation? I hate those terminal strips with jumper wires. I've had to fix a few for AMR. Garbage work.

EDIT: I see it's Osage. Looks like same crap though. Ideally they'd use something like this, but it costs more than a few crimp connectors and a $0.50 terminal strip. ST Blade Fuse Block - 12 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover - Blue Sea Systems

 

[bharvey2]

Don't confine yourself to just looking at ground connections. I've seen radios reboot when transmitting with any weak or poor connection in the power supply leads, positive or negative.

 

[mmckenna]

The last two photos look like someone did the heat shrink tubing with a lighter. Not impressive. Based on the photos, I'd be looking at every single one of those connections, especially the crimps.
I'd also make 100% sure all the grounds are good.

I had a radio that would randomly restart, finally tracked it down to a bad ground. Wasn't loose, just a very long path to ground, and static electricity would occasionally make it reset. Fixed it by running a ground strap from the chassis to a nearby ground point.

 

[westcoaster]

If a fella were really ambitious, he'd be soldering all those crimp connections....

It would remove all doubt as to how solid they are and how solid they are going to be for the life of the installation....

Just the crimps, you wouldn't want to be soldering the screws on the terminal strip....

 

[mmckenna]

If a fella were really ambitious, he'd be soldering all those crimp connections....

It would remove all doubt as to how solid they are and how solid they are going to be for the life of the installation....

Just the crimps, you wouldn't want to be soldering the screws on the terminal strip....

Properly installed/crimped connectors are good, and shouldn't need soldering. Issue in mobile installs is that the solder wicks up the stranded wire a bit and makes it inflexible. That can lead to issues in some cases.
Trick is using proper full cycle crimp tools and the right crimp connectors for the job. I avoid the butt type connectors. If the wire is too short, run a new one.

However, a touch of solder on the very end where the wire pokes out a bit would be an option. Just not too much solder.

 

[cmdrwill]

The radio's power ground should be short and go directly to the vehicle body near the radio. In this case the 'terminal strips' are suspect.

Each radio should have it's own ground lead.

 

[AK9R]

The last two photos look like someone did the heat shrink tubing with a lighter.

The butt connectors in the third and fourth photos look a little like the "no-crimp" connectors that have a ring of low-temp solder inside a piece of shrink tubing. Summit Racing® Heat Shrink Self-Solder Wire Splice Connectors SUM-890112

Definitely held the connector a little too close to the flame, though. And, shrinking heat shrink tubing using a flame is a possible sign of questionable workmanship.