Radio for mountaineering

[andrewrankine]

Hi everyone,

I am a climber looking for a radio for mountaineering. Last year I was on Aconcagua and most teams were using radios for weather updates and logistics. This year I am going to climb Mont Blanc in France/Italy, Mount Elbrus in Russia, and a couple other peaks in Kosovo, Albania and Macedonia.

I was thinking of getting a radio to use in the case of an emergency and was wondering what is commonly used in the mountains. I don't know if it is possible in foreign countries without a license, but being able to talk on the radio with my climbing partners would be also be good. Is that possible?

Lastly, I live in the US and would like to be able to use either MURS or FRS to talk to my climbing partners while on a route, if it is possible. But the main thing is emergencies.

I was looking at a BaoFeng UV5R or similar for this use because it is inexpensive and can pick up a wide range of signals for foreign countries. But is it possible to use in the US or in foreign countries legally-- or without being caught? From what I understand, it is permissible to use a frequency in an emergency situation?

 

[ladn]

I can't address operating in a foreign country. Perhaps other users familiar with non-US use can help out. You should check with the communications management agencies in the countries you intend to visit.

However I can address your choice of radios. Mountaineering isn't a casual hike. You probably use high quality mountaineering and survival gear and your radio equipment should follow the same lines since your life may depend on it.

The Baofeng and other ChiCom radios are fine for casual use, but they aren't made for mission critical usage. Look into similar units from Yaesu/Vertex, Icom or Kenwood. Yes, they cost more, but so does a high quality tent compared to a Big 5 weekly special.

One commonality among many countries' radio regulations is Amateur ("ham" radio). I suspect all the countries you intend to visit have an amateur 2-meter band allocation that is similar to what we have in the USA (144-148 MHz, or part thereof). Many countries also have reciprocal licensing with the USA. You can check with the ARRL (Home) for more specific info on this. Getting a technician license for you and your team members is easy and gives you plenty of frequencies and operational modes to work with.

 

[mmckenna]

If you are looking for a communications solution for emergencies, you really only should be considering a Personal Locator Beacon (PLB) or a Satellite Phone. Having both, I can tell you that a properly registered PLB should be your first choice. This is the specific situation these devices are designed for. They'll get you help in the quickest amount of time. They use a specifically set aside system that is used for emergencies, and will get your call for help into the right hands. Anything else is a crap shoot. Satellite phones are good, but you would need to know exactly who to call. In a real emergency, having the time and focus to dial a phone number, explain the situation in the right language and provide location data is going to be a rarity. PLB's will do this all for you by pushing a button.

Two way radios for "emergencies" are a very poor choice. Unless you have the specific information and permissions, you will NOT get to the right people. Being able to speak the local language, provide location is going to be a problem. Popping up on public safety frequencies is not the right way to do this. Usually someone doing that will get treated as a hoax, also, it doesn't follow the pre-established routines that most dispatch centers will have. Legal issues are compounded, confusing and will usually land you in a heap of trouble.

Two way radios might be a good choice for talking to other members of your team, but that should really be it. Knowing all the rules and regulations for the different countries is going to be a task on it's own. Programming the right frequencies in will be possible, but these radios are not necessary legal for use everywhere. In the USA, most of these Chinese radios are not even legal for use on FRS, GMRS or MURS.
If you are going to be climbing in different countries the best solution it to source local radios. Most countries have different rules and regulations, and "personal" type radios from one country are not necessarily legal in another.
Amateur radios can be a good option, but having a reciprocal licensing agreement would be necessary, unless you are going to get licensed in every country you go to. Also, the big issue with amateur radio is just that, amateurs. There is no guarantee that anyone will be listening, speak the right language, be willing or even capable of helping you. using an HF radio might be a good option, but carrying the radio, batteries and antenna can add up to quite a bit.

A PLB is the right tool for the job and will get you help quickly. Cost might be a bit more, but it's well worth it.

 

[k1agh]

For what i understand if you have an amateur license you can operate in another country as long as that country allows it. I would ask someone who works in a mountaineering supply store or an expert on what is used. I also agree with mmckenna on the plb or sat phone.

 

[prcguy]

A PLB is an excellent choice and many countries have reciprocal amateur radio licensing but you usually have to apply for the license well in advance of your trip.

Last time I climbed anything taller than the local mountains was Mt Whitney (14,505ft) and I carried a Yaesu VX-3R, a couple of spare batts and an aftermarket antenna that works much better than stock. The VX-3R is a tiny little radio and the batteries are equally small and light. Every ounce counts when hiking and I was real happy with the setup.

If the OP decides on two way radios for casual and not life and death stuff, check out the Baofeng UV-3 series or some of the other small, lightweight and disposable cheap handhelds out there.

As a side note, when I reached the top of Mt Whitney I had a few quick DX conversations on 2m amateur while watching some hang gliders in the distance and they were passing over the White mountains at around 14,000ft and heading into the Owens Valley.

I later found out one of the hang gliders was a friend who I had previously set up with commercial radios for the hang glider and chase vehicle and they were using the radios while I was watching them but it never crossed my mind to check their frequency while on top of Whitney. Maybe next time....
prcguy

 

[Minus1]

Throughout the EU you can use any PMR 446 MHz handheld radio (8 FM channels) without a license. Widely available for not much money, but only 500mW, so only usable line of sight.
PMR446 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

[andrewrankine]

Thanks everyone. I think that for this trip it might make more sense to skip the radio. I have a PLB, but in many countries you will not be rescued unless you give them your credit card number and insurance info-- so it wouldn't always be helpful. On many peaks like Everest and Aconcagua I see people using radios, are they using VHF/UHF units like the BaoFeng (but higher quality)? On a lot of mountains like Elbrus and Aconcagua there are rescue frequencies that everyone is supposed to know. Is it ok to send on those frequencies in an emergency because the rescue service holds a license for those frequencies?

 

[robertmac]

Throughout the EU you can use any PMR 446 MHz handheld radio (8 FM channels) without a license. Widely available for not much money, but only 500mW, so only usable line of sight.
PMR446 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

But leave them overseas and don't bring back to North America.

 

[p1879]

I just finished two audiobooks about the 1996 Everest disaster. The frequent mention of radio traffic compelled me to look up this topic. It seems that almost all Everest traffic was in or near the 2M band. This may have been mostly large and commercial expeditionary groups. I am sure this is not a universal mountaineering practice, but may well apply on many 8000 m. peaks.
A frequency agile,and robust radio with a very stout battery pack would be the thing.Failing that expenditure- as one said here- a UV3 Baofeng or stronger TYT UV3R would be a big improvement over yelling.
One post I saw mentioned that the Kumbu Base camp in Nepal could communicate with the Tibetian/Chinese basecamp via VHF.

I doubt that you are planning an Everest climb at this point; that 2M tidbit is the only information I have on mountaineering frequencies. I am sure, as said here before, that murs/frs/grms and in some cases marine vhf are probably in use, especially in remote areas.
I seem to remember a rescue on Mt. Ranier or Hood where a small girl picked up the distress call from the climbers 45 miles away on her FRS radio.

p1879

 

[mikepdx]

You should check with the communications management agencies in the countries you intend to visit.

Exactly.

Would you (the OP) risk all that money, time, perhaps equipment
you have invested in your adventure being seized because you've
unwittingly smuggled in contraband (FRS, GMRS, Baofengs, etc)?
Note: Some countries aren't so nice.

Inquire with the locals in each venue.
Buy the best you can afford there and leave them there.
Consider it cheap insurance and part of the entire budget.

 

[majoco]

I would have thought that any country that has a great attraction for mountain climbers would also have a mountain rescue service. Here in NZ the MRS will hire you a fully licensed radio and a base station to check into twice a day. It's HF and everybody is on the same frequency so if you cannot contact the base then someone else will relay.

 

[sparklehorse]

I remember watching that series called 'Everest: Beyond the Limit' on the Discovery Channel a few years back. Organizer Russel Brice used two-way radios routinely to communicate with his climbers that were farther up the mountain from his tent in Base Camp. I'm almost positive the few times they showed the radio it was set on a 2M Ham frequency. So I think p1879 is correct, VHF Ham may be de rigueur on Everest and other major climb locations. Perhaps this question could be answered better by climber folk. Have you posted in climbing forums to see if there is any consensus on this topic?

.

 

[Minus1]

I would have thought that any country that has a great attraction for mountain climbers would also have a mountain rescue service. Here in NZ the MRS will hire you a fully licensed radio and a base station to check into twice a day. It's HF and everybody is on the same frequency so if you cannot contact the base then someone else will relay.

Both NZ and Australia have the great advantage of being not surrounded by other countries, and can therefore do largely what they want with radio spectrum. There is zero chance of an HF allocation happening in the UK, especially with EU lording over us. Even UK MRT teams don't have HF as far as I know.

 

[K5MPH]

Just find out what every one else is using and use that ..........