Makes sense. Also, I edited my question after you replied.
Do you think one would fit from what you recall of being in there?
Internal GPS Mod Tech Support/Q&A
- Thread starter jonwienke
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Makes sense. Also, I edited my question after you replied.
Do you think one would fit from what you recall of being in there?
They aren't. I'm not sure why. The filenames reflect the correct date and time (YYYYMMDD_HHMMSS.jpg).
No. They appear to be about the same thickness as the modules I use, which require a cutout. So I guess that would be reason #4.
No. They appear to be about the same thickness as the modules I use, which require a cutout. So I guess that would be reason #4.
Dang, thanks for saving me the trouble.Hi Jon......so after doing this does this look like something you will be offering as a mod down the line? Any idea on an estimated cost?
I haven't taken the plunge yet as I'm standing back for the parade to pass....but sure looks interesting and at some point I'm sure I'll have to add to the collection. You did great work on my BCD436 but will definitely want "mobile scanning work the way it always should have" on the SDS!
Awesome Jon. That inches me closer to buying the SDS.
I have to say it most have taken some "guts" to crack open a $ 700 scanner that you hadn't had even 24 hours and tinker with it. I'm glad you did as I don't think I could have removed the first screw!!
Thanks,
Did you find a place on the circuit board opposite the hole in the case for a screw to go?
The tape is a breathable waterproof tape, it allows it to "breath" during altitude changes.
Do we know exactly what message types the radios are looking for? I found the GnssTooKit program and can change some parameters in the ATGM336H but am trying to figure out exactly what the radio wants.
Is it getting the data from the $GPRMC and/or $GPGGA sentences?
Is it getting the data from the $GPRMC and/or $GPGGA sentences?
Whatever the ATGM336H sends by default is the ones the scanner doesn't parse. IIRC there are 3 different NMEA sentences that include coordinates somewhere. The ATGM336H sends one or two, but they aren't the one the scanner wants.
I've pretty much given up on anything other than the Reyax modules. They work without needing extra logic converter circuitry, and they don't generate any detectable RFI. RFI is an issue to some degree with every other module I've tried, including the ATGM336H.
I've pretty much given up on anything other than the Reyax modules. They work without needing extra logic converter circuitry, and they don't generate any detectable RFI. RFI is an issue to some degree with every other module I've tried, including the ATGM336H.
Can the uniden 996 series programming cable be used as a GPS input? I have one hooked to a homepatrol and my comport attempting to send in saved known good GPS data from a repeating file using RealTerm. I'm wondering if the pins are the same and if I need to use a null modem.
I got it.
I disabled all but GGA and RMC messages. It's recognizing it now. I did have to use a null adapter.
I'm going to wrap it in some Kapton tape and then copper tape and try it in the HomePatrol.
I disabled all but GGA and RMC messages. It's recognizing it now. I did have to use a null adapter.
I'm going to wrap it in some Kapton tape and then copper tape and try it in the HomePatrol.
Markb
Member
I figured that was what the hole is for. I wonder if removing it or plugging it will cause issues with altitude changes, like speaker distortion?
Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
No. The headphone jack and USB ports are not sealed behind the port covers. The port covers don't seal well enough to hold a vacuum, and if enough pressure built up inside the scanner to cause speaker distortion, it would pop the USB port cover.
I finally narrowed down how to get the ATGM336H to play nice.
Use the GnssToolkit3 software then go into PCAS settings and turn off the BDS constellation by unchecking the box. I left it as GPS only. Then write and save to flash. That switches the GNRMC and GNGGA sentence prefixes to the proper GPRMC and GPGGA prefixes. From there it works fine and is immediately recognized. You can go in and turn off other extra data and change baud rate as well. I trimmed it down to only those two formats since it's all we are using with this application.
My initial frustration came from not using Save. The settings were being reset on power loss because they were not permanently saved into flash.
Last edited:
SDS100 Internal Install Notes
You can get the new Reyax module on eBay for $15+shipping: https://www.ebay.com/itm/REYAX-RY82...t-12V-Flash-antenna-module-RS232/183150562491
The catch is that you have to change the default settings to output the correct format NMEA sentences (they should start with GP instead of GN). To do that, you need to download U-Center here:
https://www.u-blox.com/en/product/u-center
You'll need a way to connect the module to your computer, some type of RS232-USB adapter configured so that outputs are connected to inputs. You don't need the RTS, CTS, etc.
Once you get U-Center installed and the module connected, open up the Configuration Viewer (Menu \ View \ Configuration View). You'll see a list of categories on the left. You'll need to make the following changes in each listed category:
NMEA
Filter: QZSS, BeiDou should be checked
Main Talker ID: 1 GPS
GSV Talker ID: 1 Use Main Talker ID
ITFM
Broadband Interference: 3
CW Treshold: 15
Antenna type: 1 Passive
Enable should be checked (must do this first)
GNSS
Enable GPS, SBAS, GLONASS, all other enable checks should be off
After changing the settings in each category, click the Send button at the bottom left, then Menu \ Receiver \ Action \ Save Config.
If you want to install an status indicator LED, use one like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/100pcs-3mm...reen-Clear-Lens-2-Pin-Leds-Light/222873908834
Connect it between the PPS output and ground, with a 2.8K current limiter resistor in series with the indicator LED The spacing between the front panel LEDs is 5.5mm center-to-center.
The most difficult part by far is shown here: https://1drv.ms/u/s!ApJIS-l4xqPtgvgVm6kArQYQF88J_w
The GPS data wire (yellow) connects to the second pin from the left of the USB connector as shown. The shield is soldered to the board in multiple locations, so I don't recommend trying to remove it. You need to solder through the hole, which is roughly 1/4" square. Bending the tab out of the way gives you a bit more room and visibility, but it's still very tight.
You'll want to make a 90-degree bend near the end of a solid wire (like the excess lead of the resistor you'll eventually use for the LED), Apply a small blob of solder to the bent tip, position the wire on the correct connector lead, and apply heat. A good connection will bend the wire before breaking the joint. Verify continuity (should read about 12KΩ to ground), and more importantly, verify that you haven't bridged any adjoining pins with excess solder. Fixing that is a total PITA (ask me how I know).
With the settings above, the module will use both GLONASS and GPS satellites to calculate a position, but you can only choose one timepulse reference. So the module will only indicate a satellite lock with the LED if it sees enough GPS satellites to calculate a position, but will calculate a good position fix from GLONASS satellites even if it can't see any GPS birds.
The template for making the cutout for the GPS module is here: https://1drv.ms/x/s!ApJIS-l4xqPtgup_zxqtNGZ7CCxghg
Zero is the center of the belt clip screw hole. Dimensions are in mm. Measure twice, cut once, etc.
The module outputs 9600 baud, so you'll need to set the scanner accordingly.
You can get the new Reyax module on eBay for $15+shipping: https://www.ebay.com/itm/REYAX-RY82...t-12V-Flash-antenna-module-RS232/183150562491
The catch is that you have to change the default settings to output the correct format NMEA sentences (they should start with GP instead of GN). To do that, you need to download U-Center here:
https://www.u-blox.com/en/product/u-center
You'll need a way to connect the module to your computer, some type of RS232-USB adapter configured so that outputs are connected to inputs. You don't need the RTS, CTS, etc.
Once you get U-Center installed and the module connected, open up the Configuration Viewer (Menu \ View \ Configuration View). You'll see a list of categories on the left. You'll need to make the following changes in each listed category:
NMEA
Filter: QZSS, BeiDou should be checked
Main Talker ID: 1 GPS
GSV Talker ID: 1 Use Main Talker ID
ITFM
Broadband Interference: 3
CW Treshold: 15
Antenna type: 1 Passive
Enable should be checked (must do this first)
GNSS
Enable GPS, SBAS, GLONASS, all other enable checks should be off
After changing the settings in each category, click the Send button at the bottom left, then Menu \ Receiver \ Action \ Save Config.
If you want to install an status indicator LED, use one like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/100pcs-3mm...reen-Clear-Lens-2-Pin-Leds-Light/222873908834
Connect it between the PPS output and ground, with a 2.8K current limiter resistor in series with the indicator LED The spacing between the front panel LEDs is 5.5mm center-to-center.
The most difficult part by far is shown here: https://1drv.ms/u/s!ApJIS-l4xqPtgvgVm6kArQYQF88J_w
The GPS data wire (yellow) connects to the second pin from the left of the USB connector as shown. The shield is soldered to the board in multiple locations, so I don't recommend trying to remove it. You need to solder through the hole, which is roughly 1/4" square. Bending the tab out of the way gives you a bit more room and visibility, but it's still very tight.
You'll want to make a 90-degree bend near the end of a solid wire (like the excess lead of the resistor you'll eventually use for the LED), Apply a small blob of solder to the bent tip, position the wire on the correct connector lead, and apply heat. A good connection will bend the wire before breaking the joint. Verify continuity (should read about 12KΩ to ground), and more importantly, verify that you haven't bridged any adjoining pins with excess solder. Fixing that is a total PITA (ask me how I know).
With the settings above, the module will use both GLONASS and GPS satellites to calculate a position, but you can only choose one timepulse reference. So the module will only indicate a satellite lock with the LED if it sees enough GPS satellites to calculate a position, but will calculate a good position fix from GLONASS satellites even if it can't see any GPS birds.
The template for making the cutout for the GPS module is here: https://1drv.ms/x/s!ApJIS-l4xqPtgup_zxqtNGZ7CCxghg
Zero is the center of the belt clip screw hole. Dimensions are in mm. Measure twice, cut once, etc.
The module outputs 9600 baud, so you'll need to set the scanner accordingly.
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