New Whistler WS1080

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Ed6698

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I am trying another experiment with the WS1080, have always used rechargeable batteries for years. I want to see what kind of battery life I get with some alkalines. I bought some new Duracell Duralock AA, put them in scanner and changed the switch to alkaline. Just want to see what kind of life I can get with the 1080. I am not going to use them on a regular basis, but I found some on sale and figured I wanted to stock up on some AA for just in case. Will post back later my results.
 

marksmith

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I find the battery compartment door harder to get off than what I think is needed but I guess that is better than it falling off. Still making my way through the EZScan software to get the results I want. Seems it could use an update compared to ARC500 that I used with the RS mobile. Had it with me in the Columbus area yesterday and it seemed to work just fine with over 3000 items loaded into it for the County. Radio wise I believe it is going just fine. Tried to get a case for it at Universal Radio yesterday but they didn't have either in stock. Actually, everything the guy I was with and I wanted they didn't have available. Was a very disappointing trip to the candy store. Think I might try to find another antenna to use on the WS1080 to see if it will outperform the stock duck but it seems to be good enough. Thinking about finding a mobile now...
That radio does ok on the stock antenna, but for an upgrade for 700-890mz trunked radio systems I would suggest:

1. Radio Shack 800mz antenna
2. Laird 806 BNC

Both substantially improve the frequency range noted above. They do it somewhat to the detriment of VHF, but it depends on what you are trying to listen to. Strong vhf still comes in.

Does not seem to be much of a negative to 380-400 mz which also contains some digital government trunked systems.

Mark
BCD536HP/HP-1E/HP-2E/BCD996XT/BCD396XT(2)/BCD996T/PSR-800/PRO-96 +
 

Ed6698

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I have the results with using some Duracell Duralock AA in the WS1080. This is with using the LCD on when scanner locks on channel, LED and LCD on with EMS and FD. This was done over a couple scanning sessions. The batteries are not totally discharged, they will run it for a little while after turning it back on after it has sat some. I got a total of about 10.5 hours with alkaline. I get better results with my rechargeable Panasonic Eneloop Pros, definitely would not use alkaline batteries on a regular basis, but they would be good in a pinch.
 

Ed6698

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Well I just had another 2 of a set of 4 Energizer 2300mah go bad after about a little over 1 year of use. The 2 reported the HIGH error on the Maha MH-C9000 charger, so I disposed of the whole set. I will now cycle in my new set of Panasonic Eneloop Pros in their place. No more rechargeable Energizers for me, they seem to last about 1 year or so and then just gradually start failing. This is the 2nd set that have gave out like this. Eneloops have given me the best results, I have tried Duracell and Energizer rechargeable, sticking with Panasonic Eneloops for now on.
 

SCPD

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Well I just had another 2 of a set of 4 Energizer 2300mah go bad after about a little over 1 year of use. The 2 reported the HIGH error on the Maha MH-C9000 charger, so I disposed of the whole set. I will now cycle in my new set of Panasonic Eneloop Pros in their place. No more rechargeable Energizers for me, they seem to last about 1 year or so and then just gradually start failing. This is the 2nd set that have gave out like this. Eneloops have given me the best results, I have tried Duracell and Energizer rechargeable, sticking with Panasonic Eneloops for now on.

I never liked the Energizer batteries .. I found they are total crap. I use Duracell or Eneloop now and have had no problems. I prefer the Eneloops but cannot find anywhere that sells them here.
 

retropcdos

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I never liked the Energizer batteries .. I found they are total crap. I use Duracell or Eneloop now and have had no problems. I prefer the Eneloops but cannot find anywhere that sells them here.

The old Energizer batteries I agree were crap at best. The new pre-charged and ready to use ones are great, nothing like the old ones. I have some from 2 year ago with ton of cycles on them holding full mAh. They are LSD type "low self discharge" type. Eneloops pro's are the best.

I use the modified version of the Maha mh-c9000 SkyRC NC2500 , which doesn't give me issues.

The issues with batteries going bad is mostly due to people use to little current, or way to much current using those 15 minutes quick chargers, when charging them. The rule of thumb for NiMH batteries is to charge at 0.5C (where C is the cell's capacity in mAh) and discharge at 0.25C... it is not recommended to charge at a rate below 0.33C or you risk the charger missing the -dV signal that signifies a full charge and that what overcharges them and destroys them over time. I learn this the hard way myself.

200mA does more damage than charging them at 500mA, 700mA or 1000mA and accomplishing a proper termination. If you want to play it safe for less heat, then charge at 500mA for 1900mAh and 700mA for 2450mAh, never charge higher capacity cells at 200mA. high quality cells can be charged at 1A without issue.

For Eneloops 2450 mAh cells for example, I'd recommend charging at 1200 mA and discharging at 600 mA. With some you have a 1000 mA limit, so just charge at that. For Eneloops 1900 at 0.5 = 950 mA.

 
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retropcdos

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The old Energizer batteries I agree were crap at best. The new pre-charged and ready to use ones are great, nothing like the old ones. I have some from 2 year ago with ton of cycles on them holding full mAh. They are LSD type "low self discharge" type. Eneloops pro's are the best.

I use the modified version of the Maha mh-c9000 SkyRC NC2500 , which doesn't give me issues.

The issues with batteries going bad is mostly due to people use to little current, or way to much current using those 15 minutes quick chargers, when charging them. The rule of thumb for NiMH batteries is to charge at 0.5C (where C is the cell's capacity in mAh) and discharge at 0.25C... it is not recommended to charge at a rate below 0.33C or you risk the charger missing the -dV signal that signifies a full charge and that what overcharges them and destroys them over time. I learn this the hard way myself.

200mA does more damage than charging them at 500mA, 700mA or 1000mA and accomplishing a proper termination. If you want to play it safe for less heat, then charge at 500mA for 1900mAh and 700mA for 2450mAh, never charge higher capacity cells at 200mA. high quality cells can be charged at 1A without issue.

For Eneloops 2450 mAh cells for example, I'd recommend charging at 1200 mA and discharging at 600 mA. With some you have a 1000 mA limit, so just charge at that. For Eneloops 1900 at 0.5 = 950 mA.


If your worry about overheating cell, or in a warm area, charge at 500mAh, just don't charge at 200mAh, or 250mAh

2700mAh Charge: 1300mA Discharge: 700mA

2650mAh Charge: 1300mA Discharge: 700mA

2500mAh Charge: 1200mA Discharge: 600mA

2300mAh Charge: 1100mA Discharge: 600mA

2200mAh Charge: 1100mA Discharge: 600mA

2100mAh Charge: 1000mA Discharge: 500mA

2000mAh Charge: 1000mA Discharge: 500mA

1000mAh Charge: 500mA Discharge: 200mA

900mAh Charge: 400mA Discharge: 200mA

850mAh Charge: 400mA Discharge: 200mA

800mAh Charge: 400mA Discharge: 200mA

700mAh Charge: 300mA Discharge: 200mA

650mAh Charge: 300mA Discharge: 200mA

600mAh Charge: 300mA Discharge: 200mA

Eneloops Pro 2450mAh

 
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Ed6698

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I know how to charge batteries, been using the Powerex Maha MH-C9000 for a while now. I did a lot of research on rechargeable batteries and chargers before coming up with what I have now. I won't buy the Energizers anymore for my scanners and they were the newer LSD 2300mah version, I have 1 set of 4 left, when they give out, thats it for them. Will only buy Panasonic Eneloops now.
 

retropcdos

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I know how to charge batteries, been using the Powerex Maha MH-C9000 for a while now. I did a lot of research on rechargeable batteries and chargers before coming up with what I have now. I won't buy the Energizers anymore for my scanners and they were the newer LSD 2300mah version, I have 1 set of 4 left, when they give out, thats it for them. Will only buy Panasonic Eneloops now.

Not trying to get you upset over it. Something wrong with 1 set of 4 left and 3 sets bad, especially owing a few myself and knowing they are pretty reliable? Only reason even said something, is because been using them for years myself and all still test at rated mAh, haven't had a bad set of the newer Energizers. I have bought quite a bit of them, so not just luck, or stating opinion without ever owning them, I have a few old ones have over 500 cycles plus on them. Some are from back in 2010 the original ones when they first started doing Pre-Charged. Haven't had a bad one yet. I had the first original Powerex Maha MH-C9000 charger and found it to not to termination correctly on one of the channels which will also cause your issue to, as had that issue with first Maha MH-C9000 and eventually mines stop working correctly altogether. So could be reason you are have batteries fail after a year. It is quite odd you have so may issues with Energizers PreCharge.The Eneloops may just be holding up better.

I did also a lot of research on rechargeable batteries and chargers, but also go by real-world experience with them.



 
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Ed6698

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Don't worry you were not making me upset. The Energizers might be good for general use, but they don't seem to hold up to heavy use. I have 2 of the newer revision Maha chargers and I don't have any issues with the Eneloops failing from heavy use. What I meant about sets is that I have 4 batteries left of a pack of 4, not 4 sets. I had 3 individual packages of 4 batteries, 2 batteries went bad from 2 different packs, 4 failed batteries in total. I have 1 pack of 4 left. When I charge my batteries I rotate the charging positions between both chargers each time, as I number each battery, so no single battery goes in the same station until it rotates through all the stations.
 
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retropcdos

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Don't worry you were not making me upset. The Energizers might be good for general use, but they don't seem to hold up to heavy use. I have 2 of the newer revision Maha chargers and I don't have any issues with the Eneloops failing from heavy use. What I meant about sets is that I have 4 batteries left of a pack of 4, not 4 sets. I had 3 individual packages of 4 batteries, 2 batteries went bad from 2 different packs, 4 failed batteries in total. I have 1 pack of 4 left. When I charge my batteries I rotate the charging positions between both chargers each time, as I number each battery, so no single battery goes in the same station until it rotates through all the stations.

The Eneloops by far are the best and longest run time, just bought a couple more sets of them.
 

stingray327

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I bought a Eneloops charger that came with 10AA and 4AAA. The charger only charges at one rate unless it's automatic.
The batteries that came with scanner are 2300.
The Eneloops are 1900.
Does this mean that the 2300 batteries will last longer between charges over the Eneloops that are 1900?
 

retropcdos

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I bought a Eneloops charger that came with 10AA and 4AAA. The charger only charges at one rate unless it's automatic.
The batteries that came with scanner are 2300.
The Eneloops are 1900.
Does this mean that the 2300 batteries will last longer between charges over the Eneloops that are 1900?


To be honest never try the 2300's that came with the scanner, may throw them on analyzer to see what they charge at and true rating The 2300;s sure last longer between charge over the Eneloop;s 1900's, if that the true rating? Your find most lie on the specs, or have to high self discharged rate. The longest ones that are LSD type are the Eneloop Pro 2550 mAh.

LSD type is not needed if you take them directly off charger and use them, it when they sit they self discharge themselves and some lose 30% percent of it's charge the first day and LSD hold charge a lot longer and only type I recommend, as if battery sit and hit below a certain point cells can be damage and even reverse polarity. It more in risk of reverse polarity if it discharged before the other battery in series, when being used in device. Reason why some people match the set, so they are at even charge and discharge at a even rate.

You mean these guys?



 
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stingray327

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Yes those are the batteries that came with scanner.
I bought the Enelope charger with batteries in a package deal from Costco. Two different color AA batteries and 4 AAA batteries.
What do you mean by LSD batteries?
 

retropcdos

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Yes those are the batteries that came with scanner.
I bought the Enelope charger with batteries in a package deal from Costco. Two different color AA batteries and 4 AAA batteries.
What do you mean by LSD batteries?

low self discharge which your Eneloop's are. They retain their capacity for up to 90% after one year, 80% after 3 years and 70% after five years, without having to be recharge. The Eneloops pro's holds 85% up to one year, but more capacity. While regular NiMH batteries lose most their charge 1 month and almost 5% for the better non LSD type to 30% first day on high capacity non LSD batteries, after being charge. Plus Eneloops can last 1800 cycles, before needed to be replaced.

The low self-discharge nickel–metal hydride battery (LSD NiMH) was introduced in 2005 by Sanyo, which is Eneloop, but now Panasonic. It has a significantly lower rate of self-discharge. By using an improved electrode separator and improved positive electrode, manufacturers claim the cells retain 70% to 85% of their capacity when stored one year at 20 °C (68 °F), compared to about half for normal NiMH batteries. They are otherwise similar to other NiMH batteries, and can be charged in the typical chargers.

These "LSD", "Low self discharge" type cells are marketed as "hybrid", "ready-to-use", "StayCharged", "Duralock Power Preserve", or "pre-charged" rechargeables. Duracells, aka Duraloops some are rebadged Eneloop's. White tops, vents/no vents, Made In Japan
 
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stingray327

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low self discharge which your Eneloop's are. They retain their capacity for up to 90% after one year, 80% after 3 years and 70% after five years, without having to be recharge. The Eneloops pro's holds 85% up to one year, but more capacity. While regular NiMH batteries lose most their charge 1 month and almost 5% for the better non LSD type to 30% first day on high capacity non LSD batteries, after being charge. Plus Eneloops can last 1800 cycles, before needed to be replaced.

The low self-discharge nickel–metal hydride battery (LSD NiMH) was introduced in 2005 by Sanyo, which is Eneloop, but now Panasonic. It has a significantly lower rate of self-discharge. By using an improved electrode separator and improved positive electrode, manufacturers claim the cells retain 70% to 85% of their capacity when stored one year at 20 °C (68 °F), compared to about half for normal NiMH batteries. They are otherwise similar to other NiMH batteries, and can be charged in the typical chargers. These cells are marketed as "hybrid", "ready-to-use" or "pre-charged" rechargeables

So which battery and which rating is the best? Where do you find these for sale and how much do they cost?
 

retropcdos

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So which battery and which rating is the best? Where do you find these for sale and how much do they cost?

The Eneloop PRO 2550mAh are the best for high darn devices in my opinion. For value the Energizer precharged 2300mAh I tested all kind of different batteries and with lab equipment, not just the consumer made charger/Analyzer, over the years and two that have tested the best of the bunch. I would say Duracell, but know they change it up over the years. One batch could be a Eneloop rebadge and another not as good. They tested with mix results and can't recommend.

The only downside to the Eneloop Pro 2450mAh, or 2550mAh is they only last 500 cycles which is alot less then the 1800 to 2100 cycles the white Eneloops do. The Energizer precharged 2300mAh claim up to 700 cycles. It the con to larger capacity batteries.

B&H sell both as pro's used the for high drain devices. In other words great for scanners. I would avoid buying batteries on eBay as a lot of fakes floating around

Energizer AA NiMH Rechargeable Batteries NH15BP-4 B&H Photo

Panasonic eneloop pro AA Rechargeable Ni-MH BK-3HCCA4BA B&H

For charger go with a Powerex MH-C9000, or if you need 8 channels go with a Powerex MH-C808M. Charger that come with batteries are very basic and do damage to them over time as they don't have single individual channels and sent a larger voltage across both in series for the pair and if one is charge, it keep sending a charge to both till it reaches voltage, while overcharging the one that finish, so heat up that cell. Then you have timer based charger that relies on timer circuit and cut off power when time is up. If you batteries are somewhat charge, just keeps charging till time is reach overcharging batteries. Avoid these at all cost. Only sold to public as most look for cheap and don't know the difference, so a manufacturer will cut corners to get them to that price point. One last tip, never use a quick 15 minute based charger, a quick way to destroy batteries.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/con...9lZtfyalij1A7NxoC4cDw_wcB&Q=&is=REG&A=details

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/con...xaME5y4Jg9Aip0RoCksTw_wcB&Q=&is=REG&A=details
 
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stingray327

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retropcdos

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I see that the Panasonic eneloop Pro AA cost the most so that must be the best of them all..
This looks like a good deal here:


Panasonic Eneloop Pro Rechargeable AA Ni-MH K-KJ17KHCA4A B&H

I have never seen these batteries in any store that you can go to. Mail order it has to be?
Why is it that these new scanners go through batteries so much faster than the old RS Pro-43?

That is a good price and charger has individual management - delta V control, so will work fine.

Scanners draw more power due to vocoder needed for digital voice decode using CPU to follow truck systems and various other reason, I can't get into in this thread. Let just say new generation of scanners also have a computer built in to it to follow trucking system and various other tasks that quite complex, then have to decode p25, it not like the old analog scanners that just run though your banks. Plus scanners are niche market, so a manufacturer not going to invest to much time and cost in research and development, to put the best DC-to DC converters and power management system and optimize various other components and retool the PCB board over and over again revising circuits. They won't make no money at that point and more likely take losses. If they did well in a mainstream market like most "I" products and sold out within 24 hours, of them being released, people standing in line around the corner for them, it would be a different story.
 
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