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Power question

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mmckenna

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That's some good advice up above.

If you intend on adding any additional radios, or if you plan on swapping out the CB for an amateur radio, then you might want to use something a bit bigger. In other words, pull one wire now rather than having to repeat all this if you add another.
14 or 16 would be fine for your CB. You'll probably find a small cost difference, but keep in mind your labor is the expensive part.

Soldering your connections is always best, so it might be worth picking up a 30 watt or larger iron and practice on some scrap wire. The soldered connections will provide a strong mechanical connection with lower resistance than the crimps. There are probably some good tutorials on the web, rather than one of us trying to explain it here.

Don't use wire nuts. They are fine for inside a protected environment that isn't moving/vibrating. In an engine compartment, or anywhere in a vehicle, not a good choice. Crimped and soldered with a layer of heat shrink tubing over the top is best, but that's getting to be a bit much for a first timer. Soldering and crimping are good enough, but make sure you have a good crimp tool. I've seen a lot of crimped connections fail.
A layer of electrical tape over everything will help protect it.
Ideally, you want to keep the number of connections to a minimum.

100% agree on the wire loom. Routing your wire carefully and covering it with split loom tubing will make it disappear. Done right, a casual glance under the hood won't show anything out of the ordinary.

Get your wire from an auto parts store, if you can. They usually have the stuff that's rated for use in an engine compartment where heat, gas, oil, etc. are common. Don't use solid house wire, make sure you get the right stranded stuff.

Pay close attention to how you get the wire inside the cab. There is a large rubber boot under the brake master cylinder area that'll work. You'll need to make a small hole through the outer edge to route your wire. Be careful not to damage any existing wires, and stay away from the edge of the hole through the fire wall. Use some RTV sealant after you run your wire to seal the hole back up.
 

mmckenna

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That's a good question, and I don't feel qualified to answer that. I've always used a little bit of silicon sealer and never had an issue.
I'm sure someone on here with some chemistry background can provide a detailed answer.
 

k7ng

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Silicone rubber sealants (RTV is a brand, there are others too) applied from a tube all require a solvent which is supposed to evaporate or break down after the compound is dispensed - this is how the material 'cures' or sets over time. Many of these sealants are not intended for use around electronics and contain acetic acid (that's why some of the sealants smell sort of like vinegar). The acetic acid exuding from the silicone compound will eventually corrode copper wire, circuit boards, etc.... anything with copper. Aluminum much less so. There are sealants made especially for electrical/electronic use that contain other solvents instead of acetic acid... One RTV formulation, I don't remember what it was called, uses oil of wintergreen. Pleasant smelling and doesn't corrode copper.
 

mmckenna

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Well, yeah, any antenna mounted below the roof line with the cab in the way is going to suffer with performance issues, that's why some of us suggested mounting on the cab roof.

Ground plane will be an issue mounting it off the side of the fender since the ground plane will be lopsided. Usually not a big issue, but the radiation pattern will be slightly directional towards the hood.
Again, mounting on the cab roof is the recommendation since it would give you a better ground plane under the antenna. Mounting in the dead center of the cab gives it equal ground plane all around, resulting in a more omni-directional pattern.

Now, of course, thousands of people have chosen to mount the antenna off the fender anyway, and it'll work just fine. It's not ~ideal~, but we are talking 4 watt CB radio here. We do the best we can with the limitations we are given. It'll work just fine if that's what you want to do.
 

mmckenna

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Depends on experience and if you have (or are willing to purchase) the right tools. Also depends on the cab model (regular/extended/crew).

If you have the crew cab, I think you can pull the center dome light and access the underside of the hood. The extended cab (my 2005 and my work truck) has the same dome light set up, so it was the same as the crew. The regular cab is a bit more difficult since you need to drop at least part of the head liner.

You'll need either a 3/4" hole saw or a 3/4" chassis punch. They make a specifically designed "NMO Hole Saw" that is the right tool for the job (about $20-$30).
Basically you drill the 3/4" hole from the outside of the cab (measure thrice, cut once really applies here).
The NMO mount drops in from outside the truck and the retaining nut on the outside holds it in place. The tricky parts are making sure you know what's underneath where you are drilling, you want to avoid wire harnesses or cross braces. This is why using the dome light hole makes life easy...
Routing the coax from the mount to the radio can take some time. I've found that a straightened out coat hanger with a hook fashioned on the end is useful for grabbing the coax and pulling it from the mount to where you are going to route the cable down to the radio. You do need to avoid air bags, but you can route around those if you think carefully about it.
Removing some trim on the side pillars allows you to route down to the radio. Since you'll probably have the "A" pillar cover off to get to the sun roof circuit, might as well run down there to under the dash.
Route the cable carefully under the dash to the radio. Install connector and be done.

There's something to be said for taking your truck to a professional radio shop and having them do the antenna mount install for you. While doing it yourself isn't horribly difficult, it can be frustrating if you haven't done it before. A shop will have the drill bit to make the hole and can even install the connector on the end of the cable for you. Asking nicely would probably even get them to put the antenna on their analyzer and tune it for you.
Might be worth the $$$ to have a shop do it. Unless you plan on installing a lot of radios, investing in the tools to do it right may not make sense.
If you want to try it yourself, we'll be happy to walk you through it in more detail.

The benefit to mounting it on the cab is that you get the best possible ground plane under the antenna, you get a professional looking install, and it'll work better in the long run.

When it comes time to sell the truck, get a cellular antenna with an NMO mount and replace the CB antenna with it. Tell the buyer that you had "great cell phone service" with it and they'll be happy. Done right, an NMO mount shouldn't subtract from the vehicle value. I've installed a lot of NMO's on personal, family and friends cars, even some leased cars, with no issues. If you turn in the car the dealers don't care as the used cars often get put out to auction.

If you were local, I'd be happy to help you do the installation. I've done it for a few people over the years. I'm on the other coast, though. Kind of a long drive for a free antenna installation....
 

Awz1287

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I will call and get some prices for local shops. If it's reasonable I may just have someone do the install. If not I will probably attempt it myself.
How would I go about finding a local shop. I did a Google search for radio installation and just came up with stereo places. What search terms should I use.
 

mmckenna

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Phone book might be your best bet.

Stereo shops may say they can do it, but I've seen some pretty bad hack jobs done by stereo/alarm installers. One of the departments at work decided they could save a few bucks by having the local stereo shop do 800MHz radio installations on their bus fleet. Didn't end well.
Different types of tools, different training, different requirements.

Just a quick web search showed these guys: https://comspeco.net/mobile-radio-services/mobile-radio-services.html
Not sure how close they are to you.
 

k7ng

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I found some permatex ultra grey gasket maker and sealant. The guy at the auto parts store said it was non corrosive being it says senor safe. Is this accurate?

I am hesitant to recommend anything beyond what I have already, since I don't have a tube or a spec sheet in my hand. A spec sheet, usually available from the Web should tell you what you need to know. You maybe can semi-trust a store employee but YMMV.
 

Project25_MASTR

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Try searching two-way radio shops in Google or Motorola shops.

Usually will have telecom services or communications in the name.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

SCPD

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Okay here goes.
For your radio, the uniden 980, which I own also. Take the positive wire to the battery. Use quality fine strand wire from a stereo shop. Depending on the length of the run, #8-#10awg should be plenty adequate. For the ground, use a seat bolt to frame or check under the dash where the steering column comes through. There is normally a large steel plate there that is welded to the vehicle chassis/frame. Negative wire can go to either of these places or a good from ground.
Next, install an exhaust bonding kit from your exhaust pipe to the frame. These are sold at most auto parts stores and are made of 1" flat braid grounding straps. Take this to the frame. Also bond all body panels as well using 1/2" ground straps if possible and keep them as short as possible. Make sure to use NO-OX Special "A" on all connections. You can get this off eBay for about $8 for a small tub of it or 2. It looks like this
346276bb74ab9508c77be80d1a173d07.jpg
0ec3d207e22b1743ccc050a21ae53582.jpg

Next will be installing the radio in a spot that is easily accessible and not directly in the sun as the display will be hard to read.
Then the most important thing. Antenna.
This is the most over looked areas of most installs and will make or break how well your signal is transmitted and your receive works. A good magnet mount antenna can help find the best place on the vehicle to either drill a hole or use the magnet mount. And contrary to what many think, which is to stick it dead center of the roof, you will find that either forward or rear of the center of the roof will be the best mounting location. This isn't always the case as every install is different, so use the magnet mount as a template per say to find the "sweet spot". This will be the place you will want to either mount the magnet mount or drill a hole. Also don't worry too much about the hole as it can be covered using a small shark fin antenna like the ones you see on many vehicles today. Hard mounting is truly the best way. It keeps you from having headaches later on. Magnet mounts even with a good runner boot will scratch your paint, discolor it, and will also collect moisture and/or water after a heavy rain. They take a lot of maintaining. Been there and done that. Look into a good hard mount. Breedlove mounts are great and the hole needed is about 5/8" or so. Use a Unibit to drill this out. That is if you intend to go this route. This will also help keep your coax from getting pinched or damaged from either people, or just shutting doors or trunk on it. Even the smallest pinch will affect the impedance of the coax and will make for a headache as I said before. Again, all this can be avoided with a good hard mount. Again, check out Breedlove mounts. They are made very well and they make a wide variety of mounts. I'm sure there is one that will fit your needs. Then the antenna. Get one that is as tall as you can tolerate. The Sirio performer 5000 is the main one I recommend. I've installed a few of these on different vehicles with the 3" SO239 Breedlove hard mount and every one tuned about perfect. This was done using an antenna analyzer as well as an electrical 1/2 wave tuned coax jumper for a set frequency.
If you just plan on using a magnet mount, then just tune antenna for lowest VSWR at whatever frequency you want to talk around the most, like 27.205 which is channel 20. This will give you enough bandwidth to cover the CB band easily with a good VSWR across the 40 channels.
Oh yes, I almost forgot. Make sure to use the supplied fuse that comes with the radio as well as a good fuse at the battery. Most stereo shops will carry the wire and in line fuse an holder.
This should complete your install. You don't have to do everything I me riled above, like bonding all body panels to the frame, but I would at least do it to the exhaust and also the hood. The more bonding you do the better. And as far as crimping and soldering wires as well, this is a touchy subject. I used to install 4/0 wire to 24vdc 2000 amp power plants and we always just crimped wires. Quality connectors are the key and a good crimper as well.
This is why a couple of people recommended trying to find a shop that does installs of the type you need. Burndy makes good lugs and don't need to be soldered if you install them correctly. Trust me.
As far as the hard mount and antenna goes, here is an example of the mount and antenna I recommend.
3531a10e2895539c5dc8cdee7e48685e.jpg
73cf3af2276f9c732f7bb613bbc56d9a.jpg

The magnet mount shown is the Sirio PL145. Don't mind the coax missing. It's been cut as I use LMR240 for my coax.
And the Breedlove mount that will work with this antenna. Note it's an SO239 to SO239 mount as the Sirio antenna uses a PL259 type connector as shown.
2f6249ad5d03603c9841ee5dc6187e2e.png
21e6e0777f4b228fe5cd190cb1348512.png
317c560999d94087eaf3b2735d0da4cd.png

5cbdd73fd24bd76d1f59c4ca2e0e8077.jpg

Hope all this helps. Have a good day and be safe performing the install if you're going to do it.
Also forgot to mention, you'll also need a decent VSWR/power meter. Fortunately Radio Shack or some of them still carry them. They look like this. If you can't find one at RS, check eBay. Not too expensive of a meter, but they do work well.
03eeb30bbaa5219dee23b6c32158c291.jpg

If I left anything out, let me know. It's still early LOL!! Still working on actually getting up!!
 

Awz1287

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Thanks for all the help. I am off tomorrow so I will try to get the installation done. I called a couple places around an they wanted over $50 to do a roof install. Even though I have all the parts. One place said they only do business or public safety installs, even though radio and equipment sales are available to the public. I have a Crew cab so I my do the installation under the dome light, it is mostly centered. I may just go with the fender though, I will figure it out tomorrow. Hopefully it doesn't rain.

One Last question, if I do go with the fender. where on the fender is best? Up towards the windshield, towards the front of the truck, or more center?
 

prcguy

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Put the antenna on the roof if you can and keep it away from the front fender or hood in case of engine noise pickup.
prcguy

Thanks for all the help. I am off tomorrow so I will try to get the installation done. I called a couple places around an they wanted over $50 to do a roof install. Even though I have all the parts. One place said they only do business or public safety installs, even though radio and equipment sales are available to the public. I have a Crew cab so I my do the installation under the dome light, it is mostly centered. I may just go with the fender though, I will figure it out tomorrow. Hopefully it doesn't rain.

One Last question, if I do go with the fender. where on the fender is best? Up towards the windshield, towards the front of the truck, or more center?
 

SCPD

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Agree with prcguy. Don't use the front fender. Antenna won't work as well as it should and like said more possibility for engine noise or other issues.
 

mmckenna

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One Last question, if I do go with the fender. where on the fender is best? Up towards the windshield, towards the front of the truck, or more center?

Honestly? The part of the fender that's on the top of the cab, in the center.

Seriously, you've planned this out pretty well. You've done your homework. You've asked the right questions.

If you don't feel comfortable drilling the hole, it's worth the $50 to have someone do it for you. They'll have the right tools to drill the hole. They'll route the cable properly. They'll install the connector properly. And, if you ask nicely, they'll probably throw your antenna on the analyzer and get it tuned correctly for you.

Fender mounts will work, but you can really do better. There are a number of issues with fender mounts, as PRC hinted. Engine noise, risk of damaging the cable, lopsided ground plane, amateur look. The other issue is that the NMO mounts are designed to be mounted through the body. The outer part of the mount is waterproof. The underside where the coax connects to the mount isn't waterproof. The issue with these fender bracket mounts is that they leave the non-waterproofed underside of the mount exposed to the elements. You can waterproof them, but it'll be an ongoing fight.

Spend the $50, you'll be much happier in the long run. Knowing the antenna is installed correctly gives you a lot of piece of mind. It'll work better, trust me.
 

arkieguide

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For the power side of all my cb mobile units - it is easy to just mount a circuit breaker, to the frame under the hood, then wire to the radio, Wire from the battery + to one side of the breaker. I now have an extra ground wire from the battery _, to a 1/4 20 machine screw that holds the breaker's to the body, then ground the radio to the same bolt. I have a wench on my truck that is also on a circuit breaker, plus I have a pre-amp on a separate breaker. 20 amp for my cb, 30 amp for my wench, 40 amp for my pre-amp. Size the wire accordingly - #12 awg - 20 amps --- #10 awg for 30 amps. ---- #8 awg 40 amps for pre-amp.Simple easy don't have to fool with existing fuses are wire/
 
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