• To anyone looking to acquire commercial radio programming software:

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    For M/A Com/Harris/GE, etc: there are two software packages that program all current and past radios. One package is for conventional programming and the other for trunked programming. The trunked package is in upwards of $2,500. The conventional package is more reasonable though is still several hundred dollars. The benefit is you do not need multiple versions for each radio (unlike Motorola).

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President George FCC

Digger73

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My career job required one to always know where you were and lived for years with a mic for an umbilical cord to the world. So when you urgently needed backup, the cavalry would know where to head. So, I guess out of habit I noted my odometer when entering the whiteout….arithmetic was what I used to report vehicles in the snowbanks and where the local Sheriff’s Office was policing a crash in blinding blowing snow. The mile sticks were covered with snow as the exit signs were mostly so. I decided to move on as I certainly did not want to sit in the blinding snow waiting to be struck even if I was able to take an exit. I admit I usually blow off weather warnings thinking that they are often overstated…learned something during this. Many drivers with CBs were keeping the conversations alive and stating appreciation to each other for the updates. CBs probably prevented the multi-vehicle pileup like the photo Slowmover put up depicts.

On the G2 FCC, I have NRC enabled for both xmit and receive. I also enabled ANL and Hi Cut. Seems quiet. I am aware I am receiving much further that I xmit, but usually I am not raising anyone. Still trying to determine it is related to the great reduction in users of CBs. When I do reach some I ask about modulation it is reported that it is perfectly clear. I have the President Dynamike and have moderately boosted the modulation level on all bands. The radio appears clear

I have a rechargeable SWR meter that digitally displays FWD, REF, ANT, and SWR. (And the charge level of the device). Out of the box the xmit wattage was 2.69 watts. I watched a YouTube on another President radio and stumbled upon the sequence to open the service menu after determining the radio could be expanded to higher levels. Now the wattage displays under 4.29 watts and under 4.12 watts ANT. The SWR on the Stryker is 1.1 on the device, but the radio SWR sez 1.0. The K40 I am using today is 1.2 on 20 and 1, and 1.4 on 40.

So, I continue to learn and trying to catch up with the craft after sporadic participation in recent decades.
 

Digger73

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Back to the speaker comment by Slowmover, I just have the two-Cobra and that no name brand at present. Because I have a long suffering wife who has been burdened with me for many decades, and would not enjoy the verbal racket that we do, it is not a fixed installation. It have it fixed up on a wood stand that is belted in her seat. The speaker rests at the top of the miscellaneous cavern at the front of the console tilted up and toward the rear. No obstructions. It seems clear and I do not know what I would gain getting something more expensive. The Wilson was more expensive and worked once. Probably needed to be disassembled and soldered up like the guitar electronics I deal with. I will look at more speakers, but should just focus on something else.
 

slowmover

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Back to the speaker comment by Slowmover, I just have the two-Cobra and that no name brand at present. Because I have a long suffering wife who has been burdened with me for many decades, and would not enjoy the verbal racket that we do, it is not a fixed installation. It have it fixed up on a wood stand that is belted in her seat. The speaker rests at the top of the miscellaneous cavern at the front of the console tilted up and toward the rear. No obstructions. It seems clear and I do not know what I would gain getting something more expensive. The Wilson was more expensive and worked once. Probably needed to be disassembled and soldered up like the guitar electronics I deal with. I will look at more speakers, but should just focus on something else.

Might be a headset you favor. I used to use an earpiece when ex-wife was along. A KES-5 firing forward from the footwell is very good (eBay $15). The combination of its high efficiency and the carpet will take the edge of the worst hash.

A KL203 will allow: Hear, and Get Heard. They’re compact & reliable. Just fine on both AM & SSB. DC power to 20A capable is ideal overkill (won’t come near that, it’s rounding up from additive fuse values). You need it: most men won’t hear us otherwise.

— I needn't say your awareness when en route is commendable, you already understand.

The lightning strikes once two smart guys start identifying & confirming observations with one another on-air. This wakes up the somnolent.

Pattern-recognition as a dynamic comes into play as others sometimes start to visually note exiting vehicles and where one Interstate lane is starting to slow/crowd.

The combination of chatter, lane-changing, exiting and some slowing is proof-of-validity with no actual warning first heard.

When I say that, CB is for the Few, this is what I mean.

(There are those wanting to be spoon-fed. The answer is the same as with precedence in a military order. I get those pieces identified with what I can assume is best rig around — and confirmed — I then TXmit that “order” once then allow others to carry the ball).

Order, from out of (incipient) chaos. This is duty to self & others (when two or more are gathered in My Name).


FWIW, your “peers” are the pilot vehicles surrounding an OVERSIZED load. They don’t always use AM-19 (monitor), but when you hear them it’s the same problem set tackled you’ve been about. Some are outstanding.

SNR (as above) is worth your while. I use the same features. (Won’t need Hi-Cut after dark). Chase this farther.


As bad as Skip has been the past 17-18/months expect deterioration to reach untenability past 1300 EST till an hour or more past sundown. The last two daylight hours are a bear (plan to be off the road by 1500 local; in risk factor this is like being home from a night out well before 2300).

IMG_4390.jpeg

Look forward to more.

.
 
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slowmover

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KES-5 Speaker

I cut the carpet to drill then screw & glue the very sturdy bracket to the riser. A couple of snap-over toroids (M31 & 61) at each end (10’).

Same mil-spec water-resistant (heavy) speaker as you’ll find in fire, ambulance, police, etc, using KENWOOD. I bought take-outs in a lot of (5) for $60 on eBay.

— I can leave the Cummins idling and door open to my pickup and hear NOAA from 40-yards. Conversely I can listen to it windows open or shut on the highway.


Uniden Bearcat 906W Wireless Speaker/Mic

— Go back to Post #14 and consider using this as your shirt-pocket or sunvisor mount, spouse-friendly accessory. That link takes you to a post in the other G2 thread itself with (4) links.

.IMG_2378.jpeg
 
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Digger73

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Thanks for the tip Slowmover.

I attempted yesterday to fix the Wilson 5000 I purchased a while back. I had used it once with a Cobra 23 on a trip to where our daughter lives in OH. Seemed OK, but I had not checked the SWR with that radio. When I got the George FCC I hooked it up and of course receive was fine, but key the mic and the radio squealed like the scene in Deliverance. SWR warning and when I checked it with the internal SWR function it indicated 3.5 to 3.7. Then I ordered the Stryker which out of the box was 1.0 to 1.1. The antenna was installed in the base when I received the Wilson. Maybe with a drill, or someone really felt that tighter than tight was going to keep the antenna in place. This is the second Wilson product including the aforementioned speaker that has failed me. Perhaps it is an omen. I thought about drilling it out and seeing if I could adjust the antenna enough to get a proper SWR, but why? I guess its future lies with the waste management truck. The mag base can be used with another mast.

I am going to check out options for an earpiece solution. We have a long distance trip planned to reach snow for Xcountry ski and snowshoe activity and I prefer not to head up there without this comm. I began to look at amps to boost the signal strength in order to reach out in an emergency when cell is sporadic or non available. In the northern reaches of Michigan, you find a lot of dead spots. In reading it appears I will have to back off on the wattage unless the Italy 300 series can be used in this application. All new area for me, have not used an amp before.
 

slowmover

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A single final radio is easy as power so low.

KL203 is plug in and go. 3-5W input works fine.

KL503 needs a bit more set-up care.

Only time mine is off is when parked. Might turn on if someone on highway going past. No need to blast guys next to me. I’d always have it on otherwise.

The goal (re-stated) is to overcome the deficiencies of the other mens rigs. As most are in big trucks, this is quite real (they’re difficult to get performance with).

Mobile with a small amp ain’t hurting anyone versus not being heard at all. Figure up to ten miles or so talking with a base station and 5-miles+ with another mobile. (Conditions define success).

1-3/miles is commonest as other rigs not good performers. I hear them long past the point they hear me. (Everyone needs DSP).

Precedence is always RX. SNR, etc

Details apply.

Mobile Install Bible

.
 

slowmover

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Bump to 7:25

-p version less desirable than regular 203. The situation where pre-amp even “works” in mobile is far, far rural Great Plains in dead of night. Sorta. IOW, SNR is the angle to address. The circuitry in -p is different and considered less robust (though I’ve had no problem).

Radio is considered up to 5-amp, and 203 to 10-amp. 12-AWG is adequate to maintain under 1/2V drop at DK, but 10-AWG is no harder to work with (15’ total circuit length assumed). Did some rounding UP as it’s almost no cost increase.
Thermolysis is the tech question in play. Hot day and running A/C while idling in traffic with continuous back & forth. (Why to round upwards, IMO).

Radio wants 13.8V continuous. Keep it happiest.
FWIW, I’ve run highly similar off minimal wiring (big truck OEM provided power) with no problem short term.
There’ll be a point one day you’d be able to tell that the rig is starting to strain. Confidence comes with HD power cabling.

That one might also wish to add other devices to such also argues in favor of Do it Once, and Do it Right.
.
 
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Digger73

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Slowmover, taking your recommendation I obtained a NOS 203 amp and now comes the challenge of establishing capable 12V power to feed it. I have a Lincoln crossover and finding a place to wire this device may present a challenge. Maybe directly to the battery, but directing it through the firewall? The vehicle is a lease so I cannot drill holes. The cigarette lighter powers a GPS and the George and doing fine with the load. It is listed as a 20AMP max.

I can back off the output power of the George to about 2.5 to 3.0 to keep protect the 203. I will not intentionally use it except in rural areas.
 

Digger73

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Jan 5, 2024
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Slowmover, taking your recommendation I obtained a NOS 203 amp and now comes the challenge of establishing capable 12V power to feed it. I have a Lincoln crossover and finding a place to wire this device may present a challenge. Maybe directly to the battery, but directing it through the firewall? The vehicle is a lease so I cannot drill holes. The cigarette lighter powers a GPS and the George and doing fine with the load. It is listed as a 20AMP max.

I can back off the output power of the George to about 2.5 to 3.0 to keep protect the 203. I will not intentionally use it except in rural areas.
 

Digger73

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I neglected to thank you for the video and the reference for the Mobile Install Bible. I guess my wife's vehicle is a crossover and mine is a proper SUV, as if that needed clarification.
 

slowmover

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You’re welcome.

Look to starboard firewall to get thru via HVAC lines (4; 2-ea heater core & AC evaporator). Search from both sides. I use a wire shirt hanger as fishtape.

Research via guys installing stereos. Or amateur gear. Vehicle enthusiast forums. Look for unused plugged entry.

What’s the Ford version? That’d be easiest to search.

I wouldn’t sweat it if I had to drill. Leave a plug afterwards. But I doubt you’ll have to.

ATC-fused at BATT+.

Neg to closest ground. (Tested).

Read k0bg for details.

.
 

Digger73

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Slowmover the recommendation for the Kenwood speaker was spot on. I hooked it up for a test today and it is a clear speaker that carries much more definition than the China knock off speaker I picked up at a truck stop. I found one new in the box for $49 which seemed reasonable. I still have not had the time to deploy the amp and enjoy the entire combo. This last weekend turned out not to be time of my own and now the wife and I are going backwoods skiing for several days while staying in a rented Upper Peninsula cottage. But, I will get to ASAP
 

slowmover

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Slowmover the recommendation for the Kenwood speaker was spot on. I hooked it up for a test today and it is a clear speaker that carries much more definition than the China knock off speaker I picked up at a truck stop. I found one new in the box for $49 which seemed reasonable. I still have not had the time to deploy the amp and enjoy the entire combo. This last weekend turned out not to be time of my own and now the wife and I are going backwoods skiing for several days while staying in a rented Upper Peninsula cottage. But, I will get to ASAP

Ears, for the win.
 

Rich602025

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Mar 31, 2024
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Digger73 I am not sure if I will get in trouble but can you explain how to get into the service menu I just bought a president george as well
 

Rich602025

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I just purchased a President George FCC and was able to access the service menu. The radio came out of the box putting out 2.69 watts in AM mode. I boosted the AM PWR HI and LO settings and now am seeing 4 watts. This radio's setting values appear to be limited to prevent users from exceeding FCC output values. Can anyone here advise what the meaning of USB or LSB HI or LO "DC" is? AM is straight forward in the description-AM PWR HI or LO. Thought I would ask before adjusting this one. Thanks.

Regards, Digger73
how do you like the president george
 

Digger73

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Rich,

Try this link for the service menu:


Delboy posted this YouTube video and I found it searching with Google that name with President George FCC. Slowmover posted it in this thread a while back, but I see it is now been designated as unavailable.

I really like the radio. I am using either the K-40 mag mount or the Stryker SR-10A mag mount antenna and a Kenwood external speaker. On the occasions when I find another user to converse with, the responses are that the radio transmissions are "clear as a bell" from this radio. The radio is fine. I am happy with it. In cross country trips later this year, I will see if it actually has more utility while traveling.

Bob
 

Rich602025

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Rich,

Try this link for the service menu:


Delboy posted this YouTube video and I found it searching with Google that name with President George FCC. Slowmover posted it in this thread a while back, but I see it is now been designated as unavailable.

I really like the radio. I am using either the K-40 mag mount or the Stryker SR-10A mag mount antenna and a Kenwood external speaker. On the occasions when I find another user to converse with, the responses are that the radio transmissions are "clear as a bell" from this radio. The radio is fine. I am happy with it. In cross country trips later this year, I will see if it actually has more utility while traveling.

Bob
this is for president george 2 I have the us version is the service menu the same
 

Digger73

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Based on the fact I got into mine with it, I believe it works for all FCCs. I wonder if you could do me a favor, as you peruse the menu choices please note the factory default settings. I wrote them down and the paper they were on has disappeared.

There is some noodling around to get the settings to work. Most require you to press the channel selector to enter a mode in which you can change and then dial the selector to change the settings…and I remember having to press PTT in there somewhere to bring the unit to the state where you can change.

Thanks
 

slowmover

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The service menu and engineering menu are separate. The latter to be avoided.

OEM is a matter of doing a re-set.

See op manual.
 
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