slowmover
Active Member
SkipShooter® Mobile Antennas
Have seen this question come up about rust. The SKIP SHOOTER antenna uses a common nail as the length-adjusting tip (held by an Allen screw). Yes, it will rust.
I’ve used a Dremel to polish the nail to a fair shine and used FLITZ to finish. This seems to work well for a period. The Dremel can also get inside the antenna a little ways (to screw head hole).
I’d imagine it’d be better to use a “nail” of a material which won’t rust easily (stainless, etc) as a substitute from new. I’ve seen the comment that the originals used a piece of solid brass rod.
The worst of my 4-5 pairs of SS antennas I hadn’t prepped (as above) had the nail stuck so tight that two pair of Vise-Grips couldn’t get it out (great care gripping shaft at base) so I resorted to the best rust penetrant:
50/50 Synthetic ATF & Acetone
PB Blaster, etc, is not at this level.
KROIL, Mouse Milk would be close.
A few drops around shaft and into Allen screw hole, then stand it in a corner.
The nail will come out the next morning. @CDX951, if it won’t, try again.
I’ve seen the admonition not to use “wax” on mobile antennas, but FLITZ (clean & polish) and REJEX (seal after removing FLITZ) have worked well for me on big truck antennas where 4.25/weeks of driving is higher in miles than 52/weeks for half of Americans.
The REJEX seal is a genuine help in wiping the antenna clean after winter storms, but especially in summer with high heat and the surprising number of bug hits they take.
Great top-load fiberglass antenna. Superior against its competitors in my experience. (FRANCIS no longer what it was, and FIRESTIK has truckstop retail availability nationwide, but it’s best to give that a friend getting started afterwards).
Low price, relatively. Can’t go wrong with a pair (one kept as spare). Only a few CB Shop retailers (see map of locations). I’ve also bought them from retailers not listed (CB Shops who keep a few on hand).
For big truck “co-phase” (a pair) I find that 90,000-miles lifespan is about right for the seven-foot version as high winds take their toll at speed. About a year.
No, the six-foot version — any brand — don’t have the last bit of sensitivity evidenced by switching between them and the sevens. The fives are adequate to get by for a short while.
Minimum 5’ tall and a total height to 14’ is best performance. Work both numbers as is best. I’d rather have a taller antenna from a lower mount topping at 14’ than a shorter one hitting the same height.
On a new model Freightliner Cascadia (2018+) antenna mount the 7’ SS top out at 14’, a height I haven’t had a problem with in pulling a 13’2” tall, 53’ dryvan or reefer. Getting above the trailer is a help. (You can tell). Same experience with Kenworth T680. Both with aftermarket antenna mount kits. (The KW piece mounts a larger plate over the mirror arm, the Cascadia kit is a whole new mount).
KW with 7’ SS (A TOP-GUN SS stud is best)
New Model Cascadia (6’ Firestik).
While a PREDATOR or SIRIO 5000
on a custom bracket that gets the coil away from the cab “may” be superior, they’re also likelier to grow a pair of legs and walk away.
Signal Engineering Golden Rod
So, am saying, don’t let a minor rust problem stop anyone from choosing then modding & prepping an excellent, inexpensive top-load antenna.
Aftermarket bracket kits now available for NAVISTAR. (Mod with bigger stud)
Peterbilt 579 is an exception: One is best off using a pair of mid-coil WILSON 2000 on the optional roof mounts (new cophase coax and UHF to Mini-UHF adapters fished from exterior).
Replace these stock antennas (polish out mount threads beforehand).
— With VOLVO and others with mirror-head mount, R&R a HD mount, or try another location.
Skipshooter is the default best choice for any big truck CB Radio System as initial choice & permanent backup. Remove, clean and zip-tie factory antennas and store them in side box. Reinstall you move out of truck.
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