I'm curious what router(s) you feel are acceptable. One of the thing that will make anyone feel the need to reboot a Cisco router is the Internet provider updating firmware in their hardware on their end. I have Brighthouse for Internet and when they push updates for our cable DVR, it wrecks our internet access. I stopped hosing my own email and web site here at home because of all the tinkering they do. I only have my scanner being hosted on my domain.
I have been doing home networking for a long time and I beat my head on the wall too many times.
One of the problems is the "Industry" keeps changing standards and adding features and the overall Wifi modulation and standards are evolving. I am a firm believer that I prefer not to be on the bleeding edge of progress.
Here is where I am today, there may be other products that work, but I have found something that works for me and I stick with it.
1. I REFUSE to use an combined cable modem/router. This configuration give the ISP access to the router for firmware updates and the support monkeys can "reset" your device. "Resetting" and "Power Cycling/Rebooting" are 2 VERY different things. "Reset" puts the device back to factory defaults which you ONLY want to do when rebuilding your network.
So I will actually purchase a standalone modem if needed to get away from the ISP combined boxes. This does mean at times you may have to upgrade as the ISP implements new technology for their network. But it is a small price to pay for keeping support monkeys out of "your" network.
2. Do not think you can walk into BestBuy, MicroCenter, RadioShack, Staples, Office Depot, Target, Walmart and buy a router and expect it to work!! Get this idea out of your head now. Also do not think you can find a reliable router for under $50, its not going to happen.
3. Router firmware is the headache for anyone. I find that FEW SOHO router manufactures can develop and deploy router firmware for the products they sell. I often use free Open Source router firmware and find it far more flexible and far superior to anything that the router vendors offer.
4. I have found at least to date, that some of the Linksys/Cisco boxes are good with 3rd party open source firmware and most of the Asus routers have been stable. But with any vendor, I find it takes 18 months after the box is release for the firmware/drivers to be stable. Case in point, Intel WiFi products never work out of the gate, wait 18 months for the 3rd-6th round driver and they may work as expected. Even with Asus I have had problems with stability, dropping connections and hangs, but far fewer than other vendors and usually they are faster to solve these issues.
5. This comment will get a lot of heat, but I do not care. I try to keep things simple. Wireless G has been around for a long time and works and I have kept WEP on most networks for Legacy reasons. But for faster wireless and the fact that some of the newer firmware will not even support WEP, I have moved some of the networks to WPA/WPA2. I use the KISS method for the most part. I am far less worried about someone hacking a WEP network than the Asians, Indians, Russians accessing my accounts elsewhere or Malware/Virus/Phishing on a local machine. WEP is the least of my worries.
6. As for hardware, it is not a bad idea to have a stable "test" box on hand to rule out/eliminate problems. Routers are cheap compared to man hours. I swap out "known good" boxes all the time to identify and resolve problems. Along with using "Ping" programs to isolate if the problem is "internal" or "external" to a network.
7. So my mainstay "rock" that I have been using for years is the Linksys WRT-54GL. This is the WRT-54G box that runs Linux and has larger flash memory and a better processor than the stripped down Version 2+ of these boxes. I then use DD-WRT firmware in these boxes and they are ROCK solid. No hangs, no drops, no power cycling, just MASSIVE Uptime. But due to wireless N and AC implementaion and so forth, on some networks I have moved to the Asus RT-66U for good luck. I have also used some of the newer and more advanced Asus units as well as some of the lower cost Asus boxes with limit problems, but I have had some issues with earlier firmware. So far to date, I have not reflashed any of the Asus boxes with 3rd party firmware. I had bricked a few early on and found it was just to big of a PITA to sort out and the Asus firmware for the most part has done a good job.
8. Netgear, as mention, I toss them in the trash like used diapers. I had a LOT of problems and bad experiences years ago with Netgear, stayed away for many years. Had a customer recently on a cable system that was convinced to upgrade to the latest/fastest service. They sent out a combo Netgear Modem/Router. The piece of trash was EXACTLY as I expected, nothing more than another dirty diaper. It took a lot of convincing to the end customer to move to a stand alone modem and just put their oil router back in place, this was about a year ago and there has been peace and harmony since!
9. Be careful with advanced features on any router. Often these features are not fully tested/vetted and can become a real nightmare. Things like Parental Controls and Scheduling I usually stay away from and tell people these things rarely work correctly.
10. When a wired option is available, I try to use it. I open use a wired option as a way to test or eliminate problems as well. Also I prefer static IP addressed for items that never leave the home for things like printers, NAS, Smart TV's, Thermostats, BluRays, Network Streaming devices and so forth. I put these addresses at the top of the address range outside for the DHCP window.
11. Wireless signal coverage, what can I say. This is a big PITA as well. Wireless coverage works better horizontally than vertically. Do not expect good wireless coverage in a home where the wireless router is in the basement and 2-3 floors above you expect good wireless coverage. I run CAT5 to the core of many houses and install a WAP on the main floor up high near the ceiling in many larger houses, often inside a main coat closet or panty. Some houses I deal with I need multiple WAP's to get good wireless coverage. Each wall with drywall on 2 sides can kill wireless signals quickly. Book cases and cabinets, large flat screen TV's, large SubZero type refrigerators, metal duct work inside walls and even Low E glass with metal vapor deposited on the glass can kill wireless signals. Even include leaky microwave ovens and other wireless things impacting networks to include neighbors wireless phones. I have seen and deal with it all.
Bottom line is you need to look carefully at how the network is set up, what equipment is being used, what the DHCP address range is, how many static IP addresses are implemented, how good and reliable is the wireless coverage and what items may even kill the WiFi network. Starting with a stable and reliable router or WAP and having a spare WiFi router to isolate or test with can save a lot of time and headaches..
Also understand what the term "Reboot or Power Cycle" means and how this is different than the term "Reset" which is used far too often and incorrectly. Pushing any button usually "Resets" the device to default settings and should only be performed when you plan on totally reconfiguring your network and you have a few spare hours on hand.
Think before you act, pay attention and observe. These are key traits are required with dealing with networks and troubleshooting.
As great as it is to have networking implemented in the 536HP, it is adds a lot more complexity and issues for the end user.
Good luck.
