There were two posts in this thread warning not to let Walcott inside the radio, one of which was from @slowmover. Sure, a defective radio or something loosening up during shipment is a possibility. However, in this case, it seems Walcott's techs did work on the OP's radio.
-
To anyone looking to acquire commercial radio programming software:
Please do not make requests for copies of radio programming software which is sold (or was sold) by the manufacturer for any monetary value. All requests will be deleted and a forum infraction issued. Making a request such as this is attempting to engage in software piracy and this forum cannot be involved or associated with this activity. The same goes for any private transaction via Private Message. Even if you attempt to engage in this activity in PM's we will still enforce the forum rules. Your PM's are not private and the administration has the right to read them if there's a hint to criminal activity.
If you are having trouble legally obtaining software please state so. We do not want any hurt feelings when your vague post is mistaken for a free request. It is YOUR responsibility to properly word your request.
To obtain Motorola software see the Sticky in the Motorola forum.
The various other vendors often permit their dealers to sell the software online (i.e., Kenwood). Please use Google or some other search engine to find a dealer that sells the software. Typically each series or individual radio requires its own software package. Often the Kenwood software is less than $100 so don't be a cheapskate; just purchase it.
For M/A Com/Harris/GE, etc: there are two software packages that program all current and past radios. One package is for conventional programming and the other for trunked programming. The trunked package is in upwards of $2,500. The conventional package is more reasonable though is still several hundred dollars. The benefit is you do not need multiple versions for each radio (unlike Motorola).
This is a large and very visible forum. We cannot jeopardize the ability to provide the RadioReference services by allowing this activity to occur. Please respect this.
Dang Ford..Could use some help on my antenna....
- Thread starter billdean
- Start date
The Quad5N2/QT-60PRO really doesn't need anything done to it except for the frequency mod. Sure, it can be tweaked and peaked and messed with, but it really doesn't need it. They perform great right out of the box.
The only reason I can think of to have a "tech" inside of one would be to set the power correctly to drive an amp.
The only reason I can think of to have a "tech" inside of one would be to set the power correctly to drive an amp.
niceguy71
Active Member
billdean
if there are no stickers on either side of the radio...... you could take the 4 screws out, gently lift the speaker cover off and make sure the jumper is in there and make sure when they cut the white wire... that the wire didn't lay up against something
there are several good video's on the correct position of the pins..... wouldn't it be nice to just put the jumper back on and be done with it.
probably not the problem...... but it's just a thought.
I would like to know if they cut the white wire or unsoldered it??? I have seen several very professional companies unsolder the white wire and remove it???? they seem to think that makes them more professional.... but to me I don't want any heat inside my brand new radio unless it came that way from Anytone..... what if some Bozo put too much heat and caused some other problems?
don't mess with any anti tamper stickers as that will void the warranty... not sure if the company you got it from replaced the ones they had to break open to modify the radio
do people still know who BOZO is?
I think once the radio is modified, the warranty is void, unless you can undo the mod somehow? Different situation, but I waited until the warranty was up to do the cell phone mod on my PRO-2006 scanner, which required clipping a diode. I realize that is not an option with these export radios, if you want to use them on Chs. 1-40.
niceguy71
Active Member
well it has to have a warranty from the place that sold and modified it.... so I am wondering if they replaced the original anti tamper stickers with some of their own?
That is exactly what I think happened. It seems to be a software issue to me. They changed the software.
Maybe a bad one but I think there tech screw up.
Amazon is the way to go for sure. Maybe there are some good techs somewhere, but how to you find one.
You're probably right. That is why I think the Radioddity QT 80 is a much better deal. You don't even have to get into the radio to modify it to get the CB Band. Press a couple of button and turn it on And, you can re-set it back to factory just as easy. No clipping wires or moving jumpers. No stickers to worry about.
Why of course!
Yes they sure did. It's unacceptable to me if something loosens up. Do it right! No cold solder joints !
slowmover
Active Member
No such thing as infallible radios. Not 40-years ago, and not today.
Search some CB magazine archives and show us the 75W SSB-capable mobile for $75. As that’s what $300 translates to re 1980 with an inflation calculator built on the badly biased CPI. As before, it would have been a couple thousand if using 1980 components & methods.
This is a non-starter, given:
1). Not allowing Walcott to get into it (especially if it’s simple DIY).
2). The sea can container in which it arrived had an understood number of radios that will fail. There’s no sending something this inexpensive back to the factory or to a factory service center.
I think the lot size is likely 500-radios split between a few retailers. 10% loss?
I’ve had the QT60 in service at 8-months. 2,700-hours, easily. Think any of the wieners on Reddit, etc, had that? My experience is more common for big truck, granted.
Did any of the others build 12V power to a 30A minimum? As that’s my way of ensuring a rig that might hit 22-24A stays easily under the limit needed (with amp & etc).
Big Truck Radio 12V Source Upgrade
Semi-truck tractors come pre-wired with a fused 10A or 15A harness which connects to a standard radio cord via binding posts (in almost all cases). Problem is that it’s both noisy (from fuse panel), and consists of a minimal wire gauge which allows for a greater than .5V (3%) volt drop while in...
A). Turn it on and leave it alone.
B). Overbuild supporting systems.
My money is that on examination most of the wiener radio rigs won’t pass an installation inspection.
When’s the last post on any CB forum where using a clamp ammeter during high heat, extended operations to determine total draw was a point of discussion? Do they even check for no more than 3% volt drop. No, it’s not in a Tik-Tok vid and k0bg intimidates 6th graders.
A friend of mine — with whom I conducted that legendary truck-to-truck range test (13) years ago — recently retired that dual final upgrade GALAXY 959 after almost twenty years.
The truck in which it’s installed went from 750k to 2.3-million miles over that stretch. Most owners don’t know how to keep a truck that long (on second engine) and this translates to little things like “radio”.
The guys at home wanting to work them hard should get licensure and look at an ICOM 718 HF radio as all overseas American embassies used to have. A whole other level of construction.
If they want a portable then a Yaesu ft450d on the used market.
One isn’t supposed to use them this way, but why bellyache when for about the same money bought used they’d be ahead.
.
Last edited:
slowmover
Active Member
Can’t adjust any part of TX, but having Mike at Scott’s Radio do the QC power up and adjust RX would be worthwhile, IMO. He was a beta field tester for the factory and only a handful of other men qualify similarly.
The very recent long case QT60 software upgrade was on his radar, as was the similarly recent SWR protect software change on QT80.
Many videos. See the one done for @jcrmadden and his Washington a few months ago.
Understand, too, that there’s a whole slew of genius owners who’ll trod where never they should. From changing components to messing around in the engineering menu.
These latest radios really do need nothing.
1). The price is a giveaway bargain. All of them.
2). None need anything special done.
The work NEEDED is in
.
slowmover
Active Member
That’s a typical complaint about Galaxy. Only had one radio exhibit that problem and it was my Pilipino Uniden PC-76 bought circa 1997, not the 3-4 Galaxies I’ve owned and used hard (knock on wood, ha!)
.
slowmover
Active Member
Those stickers supplied by PRESIDENT with fan kits. Or have Mike at Scott’s do a conversion (call ahead).
Ask at Bells, Bobs, wherever you buy.
.
I have seen a lot of Scott's videos. I like the fact that he sends out a video with each radio he tunes. He is only 100 miles from me. I didn't realize that until just recently.
slowmover
Active Member
I’ve re-routed myself a couple of times in big truck to get to correct CB repair man.
I agree on the wiener rigs. 10 ga straight to the battery, Neg lead as short as possible. Bonding jumpers on my pickup. Radio grounded. NMO27 mounted on top of my roof. Maybe something I have over looked.
Clamp on. I have two Flukes. VOMS I have a few. and all though 3% maybe exceptable for NEC standards it sill to much when it come to voltage drop at 12v dc. 1% would be better. Keep them runs short.
niceguy71
Active Member
On the 5555 n II and QT-60 the jumper slides on two tini tiny pins .... I noticed they slide on and off really easily..... I think if I was to shake one of my radios I could get the jumper to slide off the pins..... So even "doing it right" it could easily come loose..... not really anyone's fault if it was upside down in the delivery truck and it vibrated loose
Im sure the manufacturer thinks the end user will do the modification before installing it.
Maybe their not all that loose ... But I know one of my radios I lifted the jumper off like it was just sitting on the pins.... And I dropped the jumper back down on the correct two pins... And again it just kind of fell in place.
I have been using that radio for over a year .. no problems.
slowmover
Active Member
I’ve had as much as $200 into big truck 12V power cable. Marine/grade 4AWG and hellacious long total circuit length.
Test for Negative Ground is what I always try to recommend. Todays vehicles are adhesive-bonded over being welded.
Very good series to recommend:
.
Last edited:
slowmover
Active Member
Ah, that’s just you & Universe getting in synch.
Side-effect is that you can now dance as well as Micheal Jackson.
.
Last edited:
Similar threads
