That only works once you know where the power button is. The two physical buttons on the side more resemble power buttons than does the keypad-like real power button on the unit.As for quick start, hit zip and enter your zip code.
That only works once you know where the power button is. The two physical buttons on the side more resemble power buttons than does the keypad-like real power button on the unit.As for quick start, hit zip and enter your zip code.
I downloaded a PDF long before I bought my SDS-100s and read it "cover to cover". I also installed Sentinel and built my Favorites list. Upon receiving the radio there were still a lot of issues I didn't know as they were not covered in the manual....
Publishing paper manuals is so passe these days - a wiki is much easier to expand, and absolutely no publishing and distribution costs.
That whole ‘two sides to every story’ shows its face again!
Well, sort of. They said they couldn't take payment over the phone, so I sent in the payment info by certified mail, which showed they received it. I had to send a second letter certified which they finally processed. So no, the breakdown wasn't on my end.
Hi sure would be great if we could enter a Bank name on the BC125AT! 🤞Without going into too much detail, some components are EOL (End Of Life) and have to be replaced with newer ones that perform the same function.
This has already been done with the BC125AT. Other models will receive similar updates as needed. The SDS series should be good for a while, but I think other models are subject to these changes. In fact, the last several BC125AT versions have been for updated hardware with no new features added.
This may have been mentioned previously, and I overlooked it. If so, apologies for the duplication.
For portable database scanners, such as the BCD436HP & SDS100, i would hope that the next handheld model, whenever that happens, will have a more traditional socket for the SD card. The current usage, with essentially a metal cage to hold the card in place, can be frustrating to get a replacement card in place & secured properly. I would hope that consideration be given to instead use a socket for the card, whether accessible after removing the batteries (as in the HP-1 & HP-2), or on the side of the scanner, perhaps covered by the battery compartment cover, which is what Whistler uses on their TRX-1.
Yep. Where possible, unless replacing a failed card, where reformatting CPR does not help, I generally do not pull the cards out of my SDS100 or the 436HPs. I can pull the card if needed, but the thin metal cage can be easily bent, causing replacement & reseating to be more time consuming than desired.I don't swap out my SDS 100's SD cards often, but when I do I use a pencil eraser to slide the latch. Another little trick I use in regards to my SDS 200's / HP 536's is to use the tip of pen to press in to eject/replace it. I position it in the SD card slot, then push it in carefully when I replace them. I use this method because the record function is on all the time on all of them and swap out the SD cards approximately every week.
Yep. Where possible, unless replacing a failed card, where reformatting CPR does not help, I generally do not pull the cards out of my SDS100 or the 436HPs. I can pull the card if needed, but the thin metal cage can be easily bent, causing replacement & reseating to be more time consuming than desired.
Another little trick I use in regards to my SDS 200's / HP 536's is to use the tip of pen to press in to eject/replace it. I position it in the SD card slot, then push it in carefully when I replace them. I use this method because the record function is on all the time on all of them and swap out the SD cards approximately every week.
Joe - I thought I had come across messages about this before, and a search and quick scanning of all the posts revealed nothing to me, but it's been a handful of decades and then some. To me the volume control of the 200 is too sensitive. There's no physical stop on the pot, so I assume there is software involved somewhere. I'd like to think a simple scaling fix would be easy with no affect on anything else but who knows. Sometimes 1 "click" increases volume by 1, sometimes it takes 2 clicks. I'm sitting by my scanner and just now 1 click increased volume by 2. I use an external speaker and a change in volume by 1 is certainly noticeable. A minor detail that I don't know how to classify, but it would be nice.
I've noticed that within the usual, volume range I normally use that the detents for each click are not near as definitive as they were when new. If I turn the volume way up past, the normal max setting the detent click are distinct and easily felt again. I assume it's wear on the detents I'm not sure if it's nylon or metal detents. I might try a light bit of Caig Deoxit spray cleaner on my control.That sounds like a dirty pot. The only time it may take multiple clicks is when you are at 0.
(and no - I do not know why there are extra clicks below 0)
I'm pretty sure, my 200 has a physical stop on volume control your pot may have gone bad I'll recheck mine to make sure.Joe - I thought I had come across messages about this before, and a search and quick scanning of all the posts revealed nothing to me, but it's been a handful of decades and then some. To me the volume control of the 200 is too sensitive. There's no physical stop on the pot, so I assume there is software involved somewhere. I'd like to think a simple scaling fix would be easy with no affect on anything else but who knows. Sometimes 1 "click" increases volume by 1, sometimes it takes 2 clicks. I'm sitting by my scanner and just now 1 click increased volume by 2. I use an external speaker and a change in volume by 1 is certainly noticeable. A minor detail that I don't know how to classify, but it would be nice.