• To anyone looking to acquire commercial radio programming software:

    Please do not make requests for copies of radio programming software which is sold (or was sold) by the manufacturer for any monetary value. All requests will be deleted and a forum infraction issued. Making a request such as this is attempting to engage in software piracy and this forum cannot be involved or associated with this activity. The same goes for any private transaction via Private Message. Even if you attempt to engage in this activity in PM's we will still enforce the forum rules. Your PM's are not private and the administration has the right to read them if there's a hint to criminal activity.

    If you are having trouble legally obtaining software please state so. We do not want any hurt feelings when your vague post is mistaken for a free request. It is YOUR responsibility to properly word your request.

    To obtain Motorola software see the Sticky in the Motorola forum.

    The various other vendors often permit their dealers to sell the software online (i.e., Kenwood). Please use Google or some other search engine to find a dealer that sells the software. Typically each series or individual radio requires its own software package. Often the Kenwood software is less than $100 so don't be a cheapskate; just purchase it.

    For M/A Com/Harris/GE, etc: there are two software packages that program all current and past radios. One package is for conventional programming and the other for trunked programming. The trunked package is in upwards of $2,500. The conventional package is more reasonable though is still several hundred dollars. The benefit is you do not need multiple versions for each radio (unlike Motorola).

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New to CB and New to the Forum...

krokus

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Jun 9, 2006
Messages
6,203
Location
Southeastern Michigan
A transmitter like that could punch over a KW input with a pair of 4-400s.
the 4 jugs glowing purple are power supply rectifiers.
No clue what the top tube would be.
My Big Bertha equivalent had 6 purple glowers near the bottom, 10 KV at over 1 amp.
3 phase 220, 20 amp/phase just to turn it on.
Final is a 4XC-5000.
That looks a lot like the AN/FRT-39 that I had training on. Which was funny, as nobody had them installed at an operational base, as hey had moved on to the FRT-96.
 

jcrmadden

Member
Joined
May 10, 2024
Messages
271
It had only snowed a couple inches when it turned to freezing rain, and everything got a 1/2" layer of solid ice.

If the wind had picked up or if it had cooled a couple of degrees and turned back to snow, the extra weight would have brought a lot of trees and lines down.

Luckily it went the other way. The wind laid a little and it warmed a couple degrees, turned back to rain, and melted most the ice off during the night.

We were prepared for worse, but we're glad it wasn't.

I had filled and ran the generators the day before, plus had extra fuel and propane laid by in preparation.

It has definitely been a good couple days to stay indoors though. Finally took time to wipe down the guns, sharpen some steel, and oil up the boots.
 

T680

Member
Joined
Oct 6, 2024
Messages
203
It had only snowed a couple inches when it turned to freezing rain, and everything got a 1/2" layer of solid ice.

If the wind had picked up or if it had cooled a couple of degrees and turned back to snow, the extra weight would have brought a lot of trees and lines down.

Luckily it went the other way. The wind laid a little and it warmed a couple degrees, turned back to rain, and melted most the ice off during the night.

We were prepared for worse, but we're glad it wasn't.

I had filled and ran the generators the day before, plus had extra fuel and propane laid by in preparation.

It has definitely been a good couple days to stay indoors though. Finally took time to wipe down the guns, sharpen some steel, and oil up the boots.
When I was in training my days usually started with around an hour if driving before sun up with it raining and just above freezing. That which didn't kill me made me stronger, and made for some good pic of an ice covered grille.
 

slowmover

Active Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2020
Messages
3,347
Location
Fort Worth
IMG_7804.jpeg
Easter Sunday, 2025

Where I’m parked under the shade of pecan, cedar elm, red oak & pin oaks near the Brazos River. Beautiful place.

One of Texas most scenic rivers.

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But we’re inside the immediate flood plain.

My truck & trailer would disappear in the waters as seen from higher ground across road in 2021.

image000001.jpeg

I’m expecting my truck CB to be of help when we get warning ahead of time the upstream lake dam goes to release. Hitch & Go! (Many hours before crest, but zero reason to dally).

I would be among several hundred in my area looking to get past a couple of choke points headed out.

Maybe there’ll be others with radio. Just one other man with a decent rig can make the difference.

Ask the OP his opinion now he has high performance 11M gear.

Seat belts, concealed carry . . . and Citizen Band.

.
 
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niceguy71

Active Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2023
Messages
851
Location
Massachusetts
Seat belts, concealed carry . . . and Citizen Band.

.
don't even get me started on Seat Belts...

back around 94 they were pushing and pushing and PUSHING for it to be law in Massachusetts I held signs at voting places as it bothered me that much.... we voted it down a few times before it got approved in 94
I knew sweet mothers that even voted for it???? and they never wore their seat Belt and hated the damn things..... so I said why are you voting for it then??? and they said I want my kids to wear them????
at first the seat belt was only a secondary violation, so they had to pull you over for something else and catch you not wearing it before giving you a ticket and 7 years of insurance surcharges.
but now if they see you without it, they can pull you over and ruin your life.

all the cops I know never wrote anyone up for it... until the state started pushing campaigns to wear it ( Click it or Ticket) and it was mandatory in 2006... they actually had road blocks on the quiet main street.. you are in a long line of cars????? and someone in a suit up ahead talks to the driver of each car then it pulls forward...... when that guy points to a car .. a police officer points for him to pull over up ahead around a bend where no one else can see what is happening.... they caught thousands of people that way

I drive mostly to and from the post office / grocery store.. I hardly do over 30 MPH ... if someone wants to wear it.. then wear it but don't tell me what to do!!!!
I do wear it on the highways.. it's great, it makes me feel invincible and I then drive around 90 MPH talk on the CB and eat my lunch... unless I forget to put it on ..then I'm more cautious and drive right at the speed limit with no lunch.

ok now that my blood pressure is back to normal and the smoke has stopped coming out of my ears.... I'll stop typing.
everyone is allowed their opinion... that's just mine
 

Hdc30474

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Messages
57
I would suggest also running the negative lead all the way to the battery. Bonding ( low resistance electrical connection) of metal parts on vehicles is sometimes unreliable. The battery negative post will be bonded well to the engine and at least to the nearby frame if nothing is damaged or loose.

Unless you have a weak battery and leave the radio on in receive for days, it should not drain it too much. In receive it probably draws no more than 1/2 amp and likely much less than that.

The antenna base where the coax cable connects, needs to be bonded to the largest part of nearby metal of the frame. Magnetic mounts do not provide an electrical bond to the vehicle at the antenna. Metal hoods and quarter panels may not be bonded at all to the frame.

I also see people with Jeeps mount antennas on bumpers and tire racks very close to the vehicle. This not only blocks signal, but greatly detunes the antenna.

You MUST place a fuse on the positive lead as close to the battery as possible. The wiring from the battery may get damaged and short out to the frame. This could cause an electrical fire.
 

slowmover

Active Member
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Messages
3,347
Location
Fort Worth
I would suggest also running the negative lead all the way to the battery. Bonding ( low resistance electrical connection) of metal parts on vehicles is sometimes unreliable. The battery negative post will be bonded well to the engine and at least to the nearby frame if nothing is damaged or loose.

Unless you have a weak battery and leave the radio on in receive for days, it should not drain it too much. In receive it probably draws no more than 1/2 amp and likely much less than that.

The antenna base where the coax cable connects, needs to be bonded to the largest part of nearby metal of the frame. Magnetic mounts do not provide an electrical bond to the vehicle at the antenna. Metal hoods and quarter panels may not be bonded at all to the frame.

I also see people with Jeeps mount antennas on bumpers and tire racks very close to the vehicle. This not only blocks signal, but greatly detunes the antenna.

You MUST place a fuse on the positive lead as close to the battery as possible. The wiring from the battery may get damaged and short out to the frame. This could cause an electrical fire.

Recommended:

www.k0bg.com

As you put together today’s state-of-the-art:

.
 

Hdc30474

Member
Premium Subscriber
Joined
Feb 20, 2025
Messages
57
Recommended:

www.k0bg.com

As you put together today’s state-of-the-art:

.

Good site with lots of info.

I didnt want to get too detailed, but unless you bond every part of the frame and outer shell of a vehicle with grounding straps, parts will be at different potentials and may be a poor contact point for the negative lead of radio equipment or antennas grounds. I have had this issue a couple of times. Car makers are not interested in making sure car parts are well bonded together since 12 volts DC is not the same concern as 120 volts AC or more. Have you ever slid into the seat of a car on a cold dry winter day, grab the door to shut it and get zapped! The door isn't bonded to the rest of the car. There is some level of connection through the door hinge. I had an Acura that I learned to hold the door as I sat down. I could have put a grounding strap on the door, but I learned a knew habit. Hold the door as I sat down. Sliding into the seat created a static electrical charge which discharged through me when I touched the door to shut it. Sometimes it was enough to make my figures hurt.
Obviously it gets challenging at times with HF radios and all the modern electronics and ignition systems. This is quite different for aircraft. Especially with jet aircraft who's generators produce 115 VAC at 400 Hz. Not only is it a RFI issue, but a huge safety issue. Also an issue with lightening discharges near the aircraft.

I installed an HF rig in my 2017 Ford Explorer and of course had noise issues. A Ford Explorer is an SUV built similar to an F-150. I had concerns going into it that I had a challenge ahead.
Once I connected the negative lead directly to the battery, it went away. It saved me time in trying to figure out what parts needed to be strapped to stop the noise.

I was lucky with the antenna, I did find a good point to strap the antenna bracket to at the rear of the vehicle that worked well. It was the mount point for the rear tow hook.
 
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