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NMO antenna mount installtion on aluminum F-150

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K7MFC

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As compared to steel, which isn’t nickel, copper, or zinc alloy, either?

Right, thus the source of my confusion on the topic. I never saw much conversation regarding galvanic corrosion with steel, but lots of discussion with Ford and the aluminum bodies.
 

jonwienke

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You can use any decent sealant on electrical connections, and they will connect just fine if you tighten them properly. You don't want to use silicone, because it contains acetic acid, but most any sealant will work well. Seal the connection, and galvanic corrosion isn't an issue.
 

SteveC0625

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Galvanic action requires two dissimilar metals PLUS an activating chemical like road salt. Very, very little road salt ever makes it to the roof of a pickup truck or passenger car. A properly installed NMO with gaskets further eliminates the problem. As McKenna mentioned, we’ve been installing NMO’s on aluminum ambulance bodies since the mid-1970’s with zero issues.

This is not something to worry about. And it’s one more reason to drill the hole instead of any kind of bracket kludge.
 

K7MFC

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As promised - some pics:

nBQV9hK.png


First hole drilled - measure thrice, cut once! I used a Laird 3/4" NMO hole saw, and slid some cardboard on top of the headliner to collect the metal shavings and the slug.

lXMFTV0.png


Antenna test fit - I will be using a Larsen tri-band for the BCD996P2, and I have yet to decide what antenna to use on the CS800D (shown is a Laird 5/8 wave UHF antenna).

AaHQZH7.png


I put on a couple Laid rain caps for now until I complete the rest of the install.

I found the headliner removal in the 2019 F150 to be a little more difficult than my 2015. I found this post on the F150 Forums that detailed the removal process. I needed to remove all trim pieces for the A and B pillars on both the driver and passenger sides, and also needed to remove the passenger sun visor and the rear passenger garment hook to drop the headliner enough to fish the over and down through the B pillar. The coax was the then run in a channel under the front passenger floor scuff plate, and into the cabin fuse box area under the glove box. I will then run the coax over to the center of dashboard when ready to install the radios.

After dropping the headliner, I discovered two structural cross members: one running across the width of the roof, connecting each B pillar, and one running from the center of the rear window to the center of the horizontal cross member. The first hole I drilled was a little forward of that horizontal cross member, and installation of the antenna mount was easy. The second mount was not as easy; I drilled the hole, and needed to fish the coax though the "U" shaped channel of the cross member and out one of the holes on the underside of the cross member.

I'll make a more detailed post in the Shack Pictures forum in a few weeks when I get the radios installed in the truck, stay tuned..
 

mmckenna

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Looks good. Looks much better compared to hanging them off the hood or headache rack.

I had the same channel down the center of my 2011. I just ran the coax back to the hole by the dome light and installed a grommet.
 

AI7PM

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So many have said they couldn't/wouldn't roof mount because of those channels/frame members. I found them to be an easy self feeding chase to the rear of the cab, where my RF decks were going anyway. Nice work, you won't regret having done it correctly. For the 800D, Laird, Comtelco, and Larsen make a dual band that's 18-19 inches tall. I've used all three with good results when mounted as you have.
 

03msc

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So many have said they couldn't/wouldn't roof mount because of those channels/frame members. I found them to be an easy self feeding chase to the rear of the cab, where my RF decks were going anyway. Nice work, you won't regret having done it correctly. For the 800D, Laird, Comtelco, and Larsen make a dual band that's 18-19 inches tall. I've used all three with good results when mounted as you have.

Yes, the Comtelco A1531B is a solid performer. Of course, Laird and Larsen make solid antennas, too.
 

K7MFC

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Thanks! The Comtelco A1531B is exactly what I need. Ordering one now.. I think I will also swap out the Larsen 150/450/800 for the newer Larsen 150/450/758.
 

Firekite

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What advantage does that antenna have over a Larsen NMO2/70SH? I do wish Larsen would make it in black, though, rather than chrome. Personal preference, I guess.
 

K7MFC

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Looks like the Larsen NMO2/70SH covers 144-148 MHz and 440-450 MHz, vs the Comtelco A1531B's coverage of 140-170 MHz and 440-470 MHz
 

Firekite

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Looks like the Larsen NMO2/70SH covers 144-148 MHz and 440-450 MHz, vs the Comtelco A1531B's coverage of 140-170 MHz and 440-470 MHz
You think there’s some magic in the Comtelco version that covers a broader band of frequencies better than others? Or do some give more conservative and purpose-specific specs while others list everything it might could be used on without blowing out the radio? At least they weren’t as brazen as some, posting lofty gain figures in there.
 

03msc

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You think there’s some magic in the Comtelco version that covers a broader band of frequencies better than others? Or do some give more conservative and purpose-specific specs while others list everything it might could be used on without blowing out the radio? At least they weren’t as brazen as some, posting lofty gain figures in there.

Not sure; haven't done testing. But I do know it is a solid antenna and great performer. I suspect the short 2/70 Larsen is, too.
 

AI7PM

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I can't find my old install notes, but the Comtelco did sweep a bit broader. May have a bit to do with the metal mount and spring size, as well as larger diameter whip.
 
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