All I have is simulcast towers around me, so I won’t be able to receive any of the P2 around me since the 996p2 sucks with LSM. What exactly are you looking to see?
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All I have is simulcast towers around me, so I won’t be able to receive any of the P2 around me since the 996p2 sucks with LSM. What exactly are you looking to see?
milcom_chaser
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It doesn't matter if the reception sucks due to LSM issues. Want to see if it actual just passes the display info back to RH-96 on a Phase II system while trunking. There are menu commands that the RH-96 would not accept from a 996/325P2 in terms of P-25 phase II.
OK, I now have the version 2 working with the GPS connected and working. The schematic is correct but the photo on page 9 is wrong. Use pins 2,3, and 5 as the schematic shows.
Can you tell me what cord your using between the RH and the box, did you get an angled connector on one end?
I have a 3.5 mm stereo cable with a right angle plug at the remote head. I got it on amazon.
Here is the link:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0793KY93Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Also, I am running a separate audio cable for a remote speaker since the remote head does not provide the audio freed.
Here is the link:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0793KY93Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Also, I am running a separate audio cable for a remote speaker since the remote head does not provide the audio freed.
milcom_chaser
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Gold Plated... Perhaps there is a less expensive one thru Digi-key
Soonest I could do this is probably Monday. I live far enough away from a Phase 2 tower that my signal is too weak to pick it up. If it were still in my home I could test with my roof antenna, but it's now in the car and I won't be pulling it out for this. When I get to work on Monday, I'll be much closer to the tower and I'll see what happens. Although it's a Phase 2 tower, that doesn't necessarily mean the transmissions will be p2, at least that's my understanding.
If 8 bucks is too expensive, just get a stereo 3.5 with angled end for the rh96. Remember, you get what you pay for in this hobby.
Would it be possible to remove the entire front area (display/knobs) as one piece, and somehow lengthen the wires so the original display could be placed in one location, with the rest of the scanner brains under the seat or somewhere?
milcom_chaser
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Since these are well out of warranty, it may be worth looking into. If anyone else tries this, please let me know!
Don't know if the talkgroups shown are Phase 1 or 2, but the tower is a Phase 2 tower. For what it's worth, here ya go. No audio, just video...
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milcom_chaser
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Thanks for taking a moment to post that. Really appreciate it.
Ok in building my box I have several issues to be concerned about, 1st being dust. I work at a highly dusty area and sometimes when I come out to leave the dust blows out my HVAC air vents. With that in mind I had to build my box with tight tolerances. So here is a list of drill size's for various holes in the box.
1. Power supply hole- 27/64 makes this hole tight enough that you have to screw the plug into the hole and then attach the nut and washer.
2. Power wire to scanner hole- #24 drill bit or close to 0.150 as possible. Using the mentioned wire kit from Amazon this is a tight fit.
3. 1/8" jack hole- #1 drill bit or close to 0.228, again another screw the jack into the hole, add nut.
In setting up my HT board I used some small studs as stands and epoxied them to the board, set the board into the box to get an idea of the height for the USB hole. I marked it out and drill #24 holes in the corners and along the lines till I could get the plastic out and finish the hole with a small file or Xacto knife. I got the hole tight to the male part of the USB cable and push it in the case until the outer shield was flush with the outer case helping seal the hole. Once that was figured out I epoxied the HT board in place with the USB cable plugged in to set the correct depth in the case, If the HT board is flush to the case side then the cable will stick out away from the box and not seal as well.
Another issue I am dealing with is I have my scanner in the truck wired to 12v constant power (console) outlet and the RH is wired to power supply outlet at the dash (switched) so when I am driving I have the RH on and working, when I am parked and still want to listen to the scanner I can turn it on. So with the interface box having to power the scanner I need to add a switch to it so I can shut it down when the RH isn't being used.
1. Power supply hole- 27/64 makes this hole tight enough that you have to screw the plug into the hole and then attach the nut and washer.
2. Power wire to scanner hole- #24 drill bit or close to 0.150 as possible. Using the mentioned wire kit from Amazon this is a tight fit.
3. 1/8" jack hole- #1 drill bit or close to 0.228, again another screw the jack into the hole, add nut.
In setting up my HT board I used some small studs as stands and epoxied them to the board, set the board into the box to get an idea of the height for the USB hole. I marked it out and drill #24 holes in the corners and along the lines till I could get the plastic out and finish the hole with a small file or Xacto knife. I got the hole tight to the male part of the USB cable and push it in the case until the outer shield was flush with the outer case helping seal the hole. Once that was figured out I epoxied the HT board in place with the USB cable plugged in to set the correct depth in the case, If the HT board is flush to the case side then the cable will stick out away from the box and not seal as well.
Another issue I am dealing with is I have my scanner in the truck wired to 12v constant power (console) outlet and the RH is wired to power supply outlet at the dash (switched) so when I am driving I have the RH on and working, when I am parked and still want to listen to the scanner I can turn it on. So with the interface box having to power the scanner I need to add a switch to it so I can shut it down when the RH isn't being used.
I wonder if anyone knows if this will work for the 325P2 as they share the same firmware? Any thoughts?
The point would be that I have an RH-96 for my 396T and I was curious if it would work. Thanks for your reply.
milcom_chaser
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The point would be the 325p2 can be mounted in a box and located in the trunk of a vehicle or mounted under the seat - remote control of the radio...
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