SDS100 Scroll Control Knob Misbehaving

[trentbob]

I could say something re my experience with MFJ gear...but I'll be diplomatic and refrain.

I appreciate your diplomacy and restrain and I too will use the same, a lot's happened over the past year.

This attitude of you're the only one with the problem so stop complaining it's not big enough for Uniden to do anything about has kind of subsided and been replaced with collaboration of Mind's to solve these issues, quite successfully I might add.

I've noticed a few people who used to call others with legitimate issues haters and complainers are now those who are collaborating with other members to solve these legitimate issues.

I'm glad to see this change, it was bound to happen as the number of people being affected by the same issues grew.

These are Great Radios despite the QC problems. My hats off to those who have solved some of the issues here on RR through practical discussion and brainstorming.

 

[trentbob]

Good luck and definitely report back and let us know if this worked.
I'd imagine it will but only if you can manage to get some of the cleaner into the switches housing.

Thank you Kruser, they are water resistant not waterproof LOL. Wrenching on the four sds200s I maintain at work is one thing but opening the sds100 I don't know.

Thanks for your input.

 

[trentbob]

If anyone on this thread hates their sds 100 because of the knob looseness and can't live with it I will be happy to buy it from you.

I don't recall anybody here saying they were a hater. I personally like my sds100 and being free of some of the other issues I would like to keep this particular model, nevertheless...

I would never sell a radio to anybody that had a defect like this even if they wanted to buy it anyway.

By the way we are not talking about a loose knob here, just so you know, did you read the thread?

Enjoy your Sunday guys.

 

[palmerjrusa]

I don't recall anybody here saying they were a hater. I personally like my sds100 and being free of some of the other issues I would like to keep this particular model, nevertheless...

I would never sell a radio to anybody that had a defect like this even if they wanted to buy it anyway.

By the way we are not talking about a loose knob here, just so you know, did you read the thread?

Enjoy your Sunday guys.

I agree, performance-wise, the SDS100 is a great scanner.
The proviso is you must get the filter settings correct, that makes the difference here between no reception of a poor signal from a surrounding county and 100% readability.

 

[Ubbe]

I've used my 780 and BCT15 much more and longer during 15-20 years and their rotary controllers still work as new while the 536 only lasted one year. Also the 536 keypads lettering had worn out so that the avoid button are blank and channel button only have CH left on it, while the same type of rubber buttons on the 780 looks like new. Uniden must have choosen cheaper and lower quality components for their newer scanners.

/Ubbe

 

[jonwienke]

I'm kind of hoping the scanner isn't as "water resistant" as Uniden claims since that might work in my favor...

Having been inside a bunch of sds100s, you're definitely going to have to take the radio apart.

 

[palmerjrusa]

Having been inside a bunch of sds100s, you're definitely going to have to take the radio apart.

I've just applied some of the DEOXIT to the rotary control knob from the outside.
I'm going to allow at least 24 hours to see if this approach has any effect.

How difficult is it to get inside this scanner?

 

[jonwienke]

I've just applied some of the DEOXIT to the rotary control knob from the outside.
I'm going to allow at least 24 hours to see if this approach has any effect.

How difficult is it to get inside this scanner?

You have to pull the knob off the shaft and then remove the screws securing the back panel (6 total iirc, 2 in the battery compartment). Then you have to remove a couple more screws securing the motherboard to the case inside. Then you have to carefully wedge the board out of the case, there is sealant holding it in place in a couple of areas, including around the knob shaft. Gentle but persistent pressure will pop the sealant loose from the case, and then you just have the keyboard ribbon cable to disconnect. There is a small clip that slides partway out of the connector to release the cable. Then you can pop the display board and motherboard apart to get at the encoder.

 

[palmerjrusa]

You have to pull the knob off the shaft and then remove the screws securing the back panel (6 total iirc, 2 in the battery compartment). Then you have to remove a couple more screws securing the motherboard to the case inside. Then you have to carefully wedge the board out of the case, there is sealant holding it in place in a couple of areas, including around the knob shaft. Gentle but persistent pressure will pop the sealant loose from the case, and then you just have the keyboard ribbon cable to disconnect. There is a small clip that slides partway out of the connector to release the cable. Then you can pop the display board and motherboard apart to get at the encoder.

Then I won't be even trying, I tried before fixing an iPod that was supposed to be theoretically possible and all I did was trash it in the process.
If I'm not able to resolve this problem and it gets worse I'll probably be sending it off to Uniden to repair it.

 

[trentbob]

You have to pull the knob off the shaft and then remove the screws securing the back panel (6 total iirc, 2 in the battery compartment). Then you have to remove a couple more screws securing the motherboard to the case inside. Then you have to carefully wedge the board out of the case, there is sealant holding it in place in a couple of areas, including around the knob shaft. Gentle but persistent pressure will pop the sealant loose from the case, and then you just have the keyboard ribbon cable to disconnect. There is a small clip that slides partway out of the connector to release the cable. Then you can pop the display board and motherboard apart to get at the encoder.

Your skills are clearly superior and I might or might not be able to follow them correctly not because I don't understand them because of your good description of the process but my eyes and hands aren't what they used to be and with other issues like the cold solder and Q1 Q2 transistor issues I don't possess the nuances involved in the experience of doing this.

I've actually been comfortable with cracking open the SDS200s numerous times.

Not sure I can do the 100 nor do I think I should. The big question is... Will Uniden repair services follow your instructions the same way and when they get to the encoder... What then?

I do appreciate your skills and knowledge and I'm not sure this is a user repair and the fact that my 536s do this also, I'm not sure how Uniden Tech support even looks at this problem. It's not like it's a new issue. It could have been addressed before the SDS series was released.

This could certainly be a service you offer amongst the other potential repairs you could do on the side for a few bucks.

Not trying to be funny here, I'm serious.

 

[jonwienke]

Uniden is going to desolder the old part and solder a new one in its place. I don't have access to the replacement parts, so I probably couldn't do it for that reason.

The mobile units are much easier to open up and work on than the handhelds.

 

[Ubbe]

I've just applied some of the DEOXIT to the rotary control knob from the outside.

That would only lubricate the axle, if it gets past the rubber sealing that are supposed to keep the water out, and not the mechanical switches.

/Ubbe

 

[palmerjrusa]

Well, after 24 hours I can report the DEOXIT has appeared to make no difference whatsoever and the problem is as bad as ever.

There are two click positions that are really problematic, on the volume setting the slightest touch of the rotary knob can change the volume from 5 to over 10 or down to 0, the volume setting just dances all over the place. The same applies when in the menu settings, the highlighted setting will jump around crazily.

It was worth a try anyway.

 

[jonwienke]

Unless you take the radio apart to get the cleaner on the encoder contacts, it's not going to be able to get where it needs to be to work. My condolences, but I'm not surprised.

 

[palmerjrusa]

I've used my 780 and BCT15 much more and longer during 15-20 years and their rotary controllers still work as new while the 536 only lasted one year. Also the 536 keypads lettering had worn out so that the avoid button are blank and channel button only have CH left on it, while the same type of rubber buttons on the 780 looks like new. Uniden must have choosen cheaper and lower quality components for their newer scanners.

/Ubbe

Compare the "feel" of the scroll controls on the SDS100 and Icom IC-R30, two receivers at approximately the same price point. The R30's scroll control has a much more robust feel to it compared to the SDS100's rotary control. Same applies to the SDS200, a significantly more expensive receiver.

 

[jonwienke]

Feel has no correlation to the mechanical robustness of components. Feel only reflects the strength of the detent spring.

 

[minasha]

If the control is "jumping" like some say in this thread the problem likely will be solved by replacing the rotary control.
I had a bcd396xt with a bad control so I bought a dead bc75xlt removed the rotary switch and installed it in the 396xt.
which now works perfectly no skipping or jumping.

 

[trentbob]

Well, after 24 hours I can report the DEOXIT has appeared to make no difference whatsoever and the problem is as bad as ever.

There are two click positions that are really problematic, on the volume setting the slightest touch of the rotary knob can change the volume from 5 to over 10 or down to 0, the volume setting just dances all over the place. The same applies when in the menu settings, the highlighted setting will jump around crazily.

It was worth a try anyway.

Thanks for giving that a shot, it was worth the try. Good effort, now we know.

 

[kruser]

If the control is "jumping" like some say in this thread the problem likely will be solved by replacing the rotary control.
I had a bcd396xt with a bad control so I bought a dead bc75xlt removed the rotary switch and installed it in the 396xt.
which now works perfectly no skipping or jumping.

That's definitely a solution but is pretty extreme for many users that probably could not solder two wires together in free space!
Replacing the control in an SDS100 or 436HP is not something that many would ever consider.

At the same time, I'm glad you mentioned a 75xlt control will work in a 396xt. That's good info to know for those that can do this type of repair!

 

[richee2000]

my sds100 doing the same thing