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TK-7180H Speaker Question

drdeputy

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I have a TK-7180H bought used. There is no sound from the internal speaker, so I have to use the dedicated EXT SPKR jack for sound. I would rather use the internal speaker. The 6-pin Molex connector has been cut off and the GRN & BRN are attached to what appears to be speaker wire. The remaining wires are just dangling, though the BLU had a butt connector so it was used for something, Anyone know what to re-connect to enable the internal speaker?
 

kd4efm

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Crack the head open, check speaker is there. Also should have a two pin plug with the speaker wire to the ctrl board.
 

drdeputy

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Crack the head open, check speaker is there. Also should have a two pin plug with the speaker wire to the ctrl board.
Case cracked. Speaker is connected by the 2-pin plug into the board in the faceplate. Hmmm....

Here's a photo of the jumpers which seem to be in the correct place on the main board?
 

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buddrousa

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sounds like the internal speaker is bad.
Disconnect the plug from main board and use an ohm meter and touch the solder tabs of the speaker and see what it reads.
OPEN bad Speaker
4 to 8 ohms speaker is good.
There should be a 6-pin white plastic connector on the back of the radio, with a jumper between pins 4 and 5. If that jumper isn't there, the internal speaker won't work.
his is what the speaker jumper and plug looks like, sorry for the bad quality.


ai3.photobucket.com_albums_y95_uncleben03_kenwoodplug.jpg
 

drdeputy

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sounds like the internal speaker is bad.
Disconnect the plug from main board and use an ohm meter and touch the solder tabs of the speaker and see what it reads.
OPEN bad Speaker
4 to 8 ohms speaker is good.
There should be a 6-pin white plastic connector on the back of the radio, with a jumper between pins 4 and 5. If that jumper isn't there, the internal speaker won't work.
his is what the speaker jumper and plug looks like, sorry for the bad quality.


ai3.photobucket.com_albums_y95_uncleben03_kenwoodplug.jpg
6.4 ohms. The 6 pin connector was cut off by whatever hack set the radio up (for the railroads by the code plug). The red, yellow and black are just snipped off. Green and brown are spliced to what appear to be speaker wires. Blue was connected to something, but now is just attached to a butt splice with nothing on the other end of the splice.

The other Kenwood radios I've seen just have the female 6 pin connector without any jumpered connector attached. I've had Midlands that were like what you described: no jumper and the internal speaker is disabled, but I'm not getting exactly what's going on here.
 

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buddrousa

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You have to figure out what color 4 and 5 is and tie them together.
Green and Brown

For the Kenwood TK-7180 6-pin speaker connector, the wire colors are: Red for HR2, Blue for GND, Yellow for OSP, Green for ESP, Brown for GND, and Black for HR1.

Here's a breakdown of the pinout and corresponding wire colors:

Pin No.ColorName
1RedHR2
2BlueGND
3YellowOSP
4GreenESP
5BrownGND
6BlackHR1
 
Last edited:

mmckenna

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6.4 ohms. The 6 pin connector was cut off by whatever hack set the radio up (for the railroads by the code plug).

I purchased a Kenwood TK-7180 many years ago on eBay and it was loaded with BNSF frequencies. Like yours, whoever removed it just hacked everything with wire cutters. Got a great deal on it, and all I had to do was make my own power lead. It had the KAP-2 wiring harness like yours.

You can remove the KAP-2 and see if that'll make it go. When the radios ship without the KAP-2 option, there is a connector in place on the board and there's a jumper across pins 2 & 3 which feed audio to the speaker. Might be worth trying that just in case there is a fault with the KAP2.
 

drdeputy

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You have to figure out what color 4 and 5 is and tie them together.
Green and Brown

For the Kenwood TK-7180 6-pin speaker connector, the wire colors are: Red for HR2, Blue for GND, Yellow for OSP, Green for ESP, Brown for GND, and Black for HR1.

Here's a breakdown of the pinout and corresponding wire colors:

Pin No.ColorName
1RedHR2
2BlueGND
3YellowOSP
4GreenESP
5BrownGND
6Black

I purchased a Kenwood TK-7180 many years ago on eBay and it was loaded with BNSF frequencies. Like yours, whoever removed it just hacked everything with wire cutters. Got a great deal on it, and all I had to do was make my own power lead. It had the KAP-2 wiring harness like yours.

You can remove the KAP-2 and see if that'll make it go. When the radios ship without the KAP-2 option, there is a connector in place on the board and there's a jumper across pins 2 & 3 which feed audio to the speaker. Might be worth trying that just in case there is a fault with the KAP2.
I think the jumper is in the correct place.....it's in an earlier photo above, at least I assume that's the one.
 

drdeputy

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I did connect brown and green. I got very scratchy sound out of the internal speaker. I’m going to let it sit until tomorrow and look it over with fresh eyes. The EXT SPKR jack still works perfectly, so I’m no worse off. Thanks to all for the info. I’ll look over everything again.
 

mmckenna

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I think the jumper is in the correct place.....it's in an earlier photo above, at least I assume that's the one.

The pin jumper is in the right place.
But without the KAP2 option, there would also be a 6 pin connector installed where the KAP2 is plugged in that has a jumper between pins 2 & 3 that is necessary to send audio to the speaker.

But if you are hearing that with the brown and green connected, then maybe that's not an issue.
 

drdeputy

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The pin jumper is in the right place.
But without the KAP2 option, there would also be a 6 pin connector installed where the KAP2 is plugged in that has a jumper between pins 2 & 3 that is necessary to send audio to the speaker.

But if you are hearing that with the brown and green connected, then maybe that's not an issue.
I also disconnected the 6-pin lead to the add-on board and that made no difference either. Looking at the original code plug from the railroad, they were using the PA because the triangle button was set to PA. Maybe I better leave well enough alone. I don't mind using an external speaker. I do mind it when things aren't 'right' and that will bug me for a while.
 

mmckenna

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I also disconnected the 6-pin lead to the add-on board and that made no difference either. Looking at the original code plug from the railroad, they were using the PA because the triangle button was set to PA. Maybe I better leave well enough alone. I don't mind using an external speaker. I do mind it when things aren't 'right' and that will bug me for a while.

Removing the 6 pin lead isn't enough. There needs to be a jumper from pin 2 to pin 3 to reconnect the speaker. Factory would ship the radio with that installed. Without it there, there's no way for audio to get to the speaker.
 

drdeputy

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Removing the 6 pin lead isn't enough. There needs to be a jumper from pin 2 to pin 3 to reconnect the speaker. Factory would ship the radio with that installed. Without it there, there's no way for audio to get to the speaker.
I thought you said the jumper for INT vs EXT on the sub board was installed correctly? Isn't that the pin 2-3 you're talking about in the photo?
 

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mmckenna

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I thought you said the jumper for INT vs EXT on the sub board was installed correctly? Isn't that the pin 2-3 you're talking about in the photo?

In the photo the int/ext jumper is installed correctly.

You —ALSO— need to put a jumper across pins 2 & 3 on the header where the KAP 2 plugs in.

Might be good to find the service manual online so you can see what I'm talking about.
 

AM909

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