Version II of Stryker 955 AM/SSB

[slowmover]

Seen several videos the past few months on V2, and it looks like a winner.

NRC = DSP onboard

Reports are that it sounds great on-air, and that sophistication is increased in several ways.

Bells CB (among others)


Old board

New version board


11-Meter conversion a DIY thing (see other sources).

$440.00 for what’s now the tops as nothing in a mobile install sounds better on-air than a Stryker; that matters when you want a response, and with the NRC (DSP) circuitry it’ll be great at your end.

1). With a proper roof-mount antenna it has the power for you to Get Heard; and,

2). With onboard DSP, you’ll Hear.

Thought I’d quit buying radios last year (bought two: a Lincoln II & a DX-959b), but it looks like the V2 955 Stryker will be one for this year.

I recommend those interested look around at videos and other forums where discussed.

There’s not anything wrong with what I own, but Constantly Buying Radio(s) is an affliction.

Anyone who’s been tempted to send out a radio for tune/align now no longer has a reason: Buh-bye 163 Mudduck Radio!!

.

 

[slowmover]

V2:

1). Amber Screen (color choice)
2). Vented case slots.

Frequency stability said to be awesome. You’ll like what you see & hear in the following:

Scott’s Radio (17”)

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[slowmover]

If $390-$450 is a little rich, then a no warranty Anytone AT-5555N II may appeal.

Same board and almost same radio. $260.

Note: there are several versions of the 5555, you want the version above (60W). Same heat sink on back, etc. Settings are via engineering menu and/or programming cable. (“Conversion” to 11-M is in start-up procedure, IIRC).

— Has DSP on transmit & receive same as the 955. SSB said to be very quiet.

— Stock mic also said to be best choice.

FWIW, I know a fair number of truckers using A-tone 6666 and they hold up in that environment. I’d expect same here. (Not the distinctive Stryker Sound, but just fine, IMO).

At this price buying two makes sense.

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[1Keto]

I happened to buy the striker 955v2. First radio I bought in a long time fantastic ears, but I'm going to need some help getting out from the house

 

[slowmover]

I happened to buy the striker 955v2. First radio I bought in a long time fantastic ears, but I'm going to need some help getting out from the house

Start a thread when you’re ready.

1). DC Power Supply + Misc (a system)
2). Coax plus Antenna (a system)
3). Station Ground (system also)

— Have some fun reading around, make some lists, assign a budget.

IMO, that which we focus upon (radio or antenna or power supply) are just components one will attach to systems. The systems you build are what matter the most for performance (will cause greatest headaches if not given priority).

Start with antenna. Type; and where you’ll mount it for best performance. Everything else will fall into place from there.

 

[slowmover]

Anytone 5555 V2

If anybody is wondering why this thread it’s because a whole slew of very good AM/SSB and mid to upper range CBs are not available.

“Backordered”

“Discontinued”

This one’s new, and a bargain for what it can do.

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[slowmover]

5555N2 in action (1:12)

DSP adjusted during RX


11-Meter Conversion


ANYTONE AT-5555N II

 

[slowmover]

 

[slowmover]

On the 955

Lester’s Customs (5:00)

 

[CDX951]

I just put a 5555N II in my truck yesterday! Looking forward to putting it through its paces over the coming weeks!

JD

 

[slowmover]

 

[slowmover]

I just put a 5555N II in my truck yesterday! Looking forward to putting it through its paces over the coming weeks!

JD

When you get to it, tell us about the truck, the install, antennas, etc. And what was the baseline radio for comparison.

Pics?

A U980, etc.

 

[slowmover]

@CDX951 in a new thread if you would. Thx

I shouldn’t have allowed this thread to have both radios, except the physical twin aspect.

 

[CDX951]

@CDX951 in a new thread if you would. Thx

I shouldn’t have allowed this thread to have both radios, except the physical twin aspect.

I'll start a new thread on the 5555N II soon. I like it a lot so far, but it's only been a week. I really need to upgrade/maintain my present antenna system,but have been holding off due to the "Come Get Your New Truck" threat rearing it's ugly head again! Totally different from what I have now.

JD

 

[slowmover]

I'll start a new thread on the 5555N II soon. I like it a lot so far, but it's only been a week. I really need to upgrade/maintain my present antenna system,but have been holding off due to the "Come Get Your New Truck" threat rearing it's ugly head again! Totally different from what I have now.

JD

Whatever they put me in I’m prepared. Have done KW, Pete, Plasticadia, Cornbinder. Just not Vulva.

 

[CDX951]

It'll be a Volvo if it happens. I have experience with a 2016 so I imagine a brand new one won't be that much different. I have wanted to try moving the antenna on the Cascadia (see profile pic) to the back of the sleeper. Not going to put that much work in just to get moved! If no new truck is in the cards I'm staying in this one! It's been real good to me.

JD

 

[slowmover]

Some random dude put this up at T-R as example of audio quality:

Different name but same basic radio.

 

[slowmover]

7’ Skipshooter pair with a TAC-Comm TRC-2 box sitting on front seat.

The PRO-COMM tilt-mount would be hard to beat. (17-18/degree tilt was the marker)

Power from mains on fuse panel (zero difference in noise from going to BATT); and coax thru a slit in grommet for door wiring then forwards to come “around” to mount; forward of where shown above: thru engine vent).

(Ignore experiment with ferrite. PALOMAR Coax Noise Filter, instead, at feedpoint works very nicely).

That was a milk tanker set-up. 70-mph Clovis, NM to Ft. Smith, AR run across Panhandle on IH-40 once up to Amarillo .

— Crosswinds 30-40/mph constant in season, gusts nearly double that at times. PVC to take strain off antenna base. (See MIKE 5511 DIY Lexan brace at T-R as alternative).

I ran that rig close to 90k miles in that service with those 7’ antennas and it wasn’t until a later job with double the miles and a different truck one got a bit loosey on starboard mirror (TN & LA live oak trees).

I ran a set of rear-mount on a Cornbinder that got above roof & trailer by almost a foot (and later a single on a 579) both with vans . . all’s I can say is to avoid cab-back if at all possible. The reflect off of the trailer is awful. You pass the other guy and he’ll disappear in a half-mile.

— I’d be headed up US-287 in Colorado past the scales at Lamar trying to get a read on the winds past Kit Carson, and I’d lose the bull haulers running south (drivers with Big Radios for others reading along). That stretch before the Limon scales on IH-70 was blow-over territory.

I was ready to try a mount welded-up to use the front tow hook and an extension to get a 102” way high.

In all seriousness, a bad antenna mount is enough to quit over these days. (I’m serious).

Here’s a 5’er blown apart by winds alone on IH-90 a few days ago near Hardin, MT a few days ago. Dust.

20+ vehicle pile-up.
Six dead.
12-seconds.



No one’s gonna care about our twenty-years if we get caught in this or the IH-81 wreck I’ve written about in the U-885 thread.

New jobs are easy. A clean record isn’t.

That New Version Plasticadia was one of only two tractors where talking Skip on AM or SSB was realistic. With a KL-7505v or a 203 (I also used an MFJ-945e antenna tuner after dialing in each antenna separately, then, together; no RF Bonds so as not to get Penske po’d at me) with 4-AWG, MBRP fuse and a quick-connect was the shiztz for being other than a large car.

I got called a lyin’ you-know-what I wasn’t in a metal cab, ha!

Time for shop service, disconnect, and bury box in sleeper. Stow antennas.
.

 

[CDX951]

Only reason I'm considering a back of sleeper mount is, as you can see in profile pic, I pull flats with a midroof. In order to get numbers right on antenna I had to lean 6' Skipshooter forward 45 degrees. Not crazy about that and feel like it may hamper transmit. I really need to get off my arse and get a field strength meter! Power is the same as yours. Battery ground straps on doors and sleeper cab shock.

JD

 

[slowmover]

(Anyone reading this should grok that this fellow driver has more savvy than me re this subject; I’m jaw-flapping):

An Anytone 5555N with that antenna and an antenna analyzer to set it up ought to be GTG. I’ve seen same claims as you that it’s pushing 70-80W .

— When I’ve RF Bonded door hinges I use the Dremel to clear off paint “behind” hinge bolts so that aspect is hidden. 3/4” braid curled inside split loom. Looks nice. Never any guff about it once I started down that road.

Sleeper rear from shock absorber bolt. Underhood from rear hood rest. Exhaust as it gets past sleeper.

Static bleeds from rear frame crossmember.

I try to avoid job apps where the tractor is a Freightliner as they ride like s#%^ since age/injury has made me sensitive. But if I run 70+ and the job keeps me west of the Mississippi, I might relent.

If so, I’ve the gear as above. This time, though, I’ll run the radio like the ones in this thread on the dash inside a TAC COMM TRC-1 Tactical Radio Carrier so it can be put away I’m away from the truck. Makes running power & coax extra-easy (12’ @ 20A means 8-AWG will work fine, and the dozens of feet of ANCOR 6-AWG I’ve got just that much the more so; to 30A+)

(Optional lid and/or front cover not shown).

My being stuck at home the past few months (don’t have your drama queen injury, sadly), has led me to the next stage of:

Wireless Microphone (main radio)
VOX mic
PRESIDENT Randy

to round out CB capability as I discussed in U-885 thread.