09 Ford Escape

[ILMRadioMan]

So these escapes are pretty interesting boogers.

But here is the setup.

Like most others: front & back corner strobes, wigwags, visor lights. Siren. Radio.

All are controlled by switches. Lights on 1 relay controlled by switch. Siren on 1 relay switched. Radio ignition wired to red switch with soft power off programmed.

800 MHz Blade antenna on NMO roof mount.


Here is the inside drivers area

Here is the switch area

Here is the radio mounted in the arm rest

Now here is the fun part. We ran the power to the rear. The power is fused at the battery, AND at each relay. There is the empty storage area under the rear carpet.

Hadnt finished split looming everything at this point, but you get the idea.

 

[ILMRadioMan]

For anyone that has one of these SUV's the rear storage area is a GREAT place to mount a radio for a remote mount

 

[hoser147]

Looks Great nice clean install.......

 

[swstow]

very,very nice

 

[code3cowboy]

A unitrol 80k has a smaller footprint and is perfect for a u/c install plus you can use a progressive switch to control both the lights and the siren. You can even put them into some massive sterio amp enclosures for Narc cars.

 

[avguy]

That's awesome.
Very "stealth".

 

[crazyboy]

Very Nicely Done!

 

[KM4WLV]

Now thats pretty damn sweet !!!

 

[Thunderknight]

How did you pull power to the back? Under the vehicle or through the interior? If the interior, did you have to drill the firewall, or was there something useful to go through?
Thanks

 

[ILMRadioMan]

How did you pull power to the back? Under the vehicle or through the interior? If the interior, did you have to drill the firewall, or was there something useful to go through?
Thanks

We didnt drill any holes in the firewall.

Behind the steering column there is a premade hole with a removable rubber seal. We just pulled the seal out and ran the power that way.

Then we ran it under the kick panels under each door. Next to the seat on either side there is a plastic piece that is a hump covering the wheel well area. We pulled the cable out there, then unbolted the black plastic storage area container. Drilled holes on this plastic to bring the cables to the storage area.

We did a few remote heads like this too, and the standard control cable will make it, as long as the radio is on the same side the you run the control cable through.

 

[Thunderknight]

Thanks for the reply! This thread gave me some good ideas.

 

[Yanith]

Help i need to remove my stereo

wow awesome wish i could have a siren

i just got a new 09 tribute and i would like to install a Mazda 02+ GROM iPod Adapter Direct Interface(GROM-I2-MAZ) but i don't find any easy ways to take the stereo out. do you happen to know how to do it? i don't want to break anything, and some guys here were trying to charge 385 to install it (just for labor), even when i have my own cables.

 

[Jkendr23]

The radio removal takes about 20 minutes. The radio/climate control panel removes as 1 unit. You will need a hook tool and a hand driver/small ratchet with a 7mm and 8mm socket, a towel or some cloth to prevent scratches to your dash panels, and a flashlight (optional). Using a hook tool, hook the air vent grille above the radio. I hook the vent at the lower right corner and pull straight toward the rear. Do this for both sides and the vent grille will release. There is a wire attached to this, so carefully place the vent grille up onto the top of the dash above the vent opening. Do the same at the panel below the radio/climate control. This is just above the center console (The fit is a little tighter here so use some patience!). After removal, disconnect the wires from the rear of this panel and set it aside. A this point, you should have access to four 7mm screws that hold the radio to the dash. Two are above the radio near the vent area and two are RECESSED where the lower panel was removed. You may have to look for the lower screws using a flashlight, especially if your vehicle has the glossy black panels. These 2 screws really know how to hide! After removing the four 7mm screws, you will be able to pull the radio from the dash a few inches. There is a braided wire strap (perhaps for grounding?) that is attached to the right-side radio frame with an 8mm screw. Remove this and you should be able to pull the radio out enough to access the cables that plug into the rear of the radio. That's all there is to it! Remember to re-connect all cables when re-installing! Please post pics!

 

[1150RT-P]

Nice job. Any pictures of the outside of the vehicle w/ lights?

 

[cforput]

What is a hook tool?

Does anyone know what Jkendr23 meant by a "hook tool"? Is this just any type of "hook" that you can insert into the air vent grill to help pull it straight out?

I need to get to my radio behind the cover.

 

[medic_david]

wigwag question for ILMRadioMan

Can you tell me how you were able to isolate the highbeams? I have an '08 and when I tapped into the highbeam wires found they are on the same circuit. So how did you get them to alternate? Did you have to cut the wires and rewire them completely through the flasher? I have a Code3 700 flasher and a 360RS model. Can you advise which will work or work better?

Thanks-

 

[ILMRadioMan]

Well as you can tell its been about a year.

However, if I remember correctly there is a wire into the lights that controls the high beam. On the first one I believe we just took a multimeter and flipped the high beam on and off to see which wire had 12v on and off.

That would be my suggestion for you.

However, it IS one of those wires.

 

[ILMRadioMan]

And for product suggestion, I have always been satisfied with code 3 products, so that would be my suggestion.

 

[medic_david]

Thanks, I have identified that wire, but if I splice into it, and use either model flasher, they don't alternate. They just flash simultaneously, though I can hear the flasher working correctly. Apparently they are both on the same circuit, my question is how can I break that circuit and still have normal use of the high beams? Any help or thoughts would be much appreciated.

Thanks again-

 

[KJ4NFP]

My two cents...

Regarding the "wig-wag" question. I face the same issue with impala installs. I choose not to use the pre-fab units. You will have to physically cut the circuit connecting each high beam. I usually do this at the passenger light. Once the mating wire is cut, wire left and right to each end - one to the passenger and one to the other end of the cut wire that goes to the driver side. Most generic flashers I have found keep that circuit normally closed until the falsher is cut on. That would mean that your high beams will work normally until the flasher is activated by the driver. Check your flasher before the install to be sure it functions this way. I typically use code-3 or galls equipment.

RJC
kj4nfp