Havis Charge Guard Installation

[daugherh]

Hi experts and enthusiasts alike! I'm looking into installing a Charge Guard unit to protect my batteries from draining again. (well, 2x now).

I currently have this setup in my truck:



What I'm thinking of doing is this (using the charge guard without ignition sense.) I do have ign sense wiring at the install area but my understanding is CG doesn't have to have it.



Any suggestions or does my plan work?

 

[kb4mdz]

Exactly how I have mine set up.

 

[ramal121]

That is fine. There are three modes the charge guard can run. First is AC. This is the legacy operational mode and works with almost any installation. I'd use this first. Second is DC mode. If AC mode is flakey you can try this to see if it works any better although it may not be any better with a smart alternator. If all else fails use ignition (with a sense wire attached). This also works with non automotive power sources.

 

[nokones]

Just connect both the radio power + (normally red) and ignition sense (sometimes yellow) wire leads together at the power + point on your power guard unit. That way you the radio will power on by the control head and automatically power down according to the voltage setting spec of the guard unit.

 

[daugherh]

Hey All,

Finally got around to ordering the ChargeGuard but when I was planning out the install I got to thinking about a few different scenarios to fit it in with my current setup. I utilize ignition sense to turn my radios on/off but I've installed a toggle switch between the Ign Sense fuse and the radios in the event I need to take a phone call, have passengers, etc. to easily disable the radios or shut them down without needing to manually push each power button. Because of that I've thought about the following scenarios for installation mainly because I've heard it's not a good idea to supply ign sense power without the radio body having battery power. Can ya'll look at these setups and voice opinions about the better option?

A: How my initial idea was. Install chargeguard as above and leave ignition sense as is. Could potentially lead to ign sense power hitting before main power does.



B: Ign sense switch as is, but controlling power up and CG (using ign sense). Would provide power to bodies and CG at same time, but when powering down would soft off with ign sense and then body off when CG timer expires.


C: Ign Sense switch (radios) controlled by CG. Could lead to bodies/ign sense getting power at same time only once the CG has turned on from engine start. Could lead to hard power off (non graceful) if CG timer expires. (Heard this can cause issues with radios after multiple hard power offs).


D: Similar to C except that the CG uses the ign sense from the vehicle key rather than relying on AC or DC mode. Could still lead to bodies/ign sense getting power at same time only once the CG has turned on from engine start. Could lead to hard power off (non graceful) if CG timer expires.



Please provide your thoughts and suggestions - even feel free to offer an installation idea I haven't thought of yet. I'll be doing the install in about 2 weeks once all the parts arrive so still have time to change the plan.

Thank you all for your expertise!

 

[mmckenna]

What radios are you using?

Some can be set up to do a 'power switch memory', where it'll remember the power switch setting when power is restored. If they do that, you could simplify all this by skipping ignition sense to individual radios, and just run the ignition switch circuit to the charge guard.

Put a toggle switch on that and you could control the radios.

If the radios won't handle that, option D is probably what I'd do.

I take it you are using the charge guard to prevent the parasitic draw of the radios from draining your battery when the vehicle is not used?

 

[daugherh]

What radios are you using?

Some can be set up to do a 'power switch memory', where it'll remember the power switch setting when power is restored. If they do that, you could simplify all this by skipping ignition sense to individual radios, and just run the ignition switch circuit to the charge guard.

Put a toggle switch on that and you could control the radios.

If the radios won't handle that, option D is probably what I'd do.

I take it you are using the charge guard to prevent the parasitic draw of the radios from draining your battery when the vehicle is not used?

Hey @mmckenna I'm currently using a Motorola XPR 4550 and a 5550 but hope to soon upgrade to a Kenwood NX5700/5800 setup. Not sure if either have the memory feature - but that would be neat to have.

Otherwise I feel like option D is a solid choice. I plan to have the CG set to the minimum time anyway (I think 5 sec) so that should give the radios time to power down before mains are disconnected.

And yes, this is to prevent parasitic draw. I've had 2 batteries go flat within a year because of it (unless I remember to cut the main breaker off under the hood if the truck is parked more than 3-4 days.)

 

[mmckenna]

Hey @mmckenna I'm currently using a Motorola XPR 4550 and a 5550 but hope to soon upgrade to a Kenwood NX5700/5800 setup. Not sure if either have the memory feature - but that would be neat to have.

The Kenwood radios do. You can set that and then as the charge guard supplies power, the radio will remember the power switch setting and act accordingly.

Otherwise I feel like option D is a solid choice. I plan to have the CG set to the minimum time anyway (I think 5 sec) so that should give the radios time to power down before mains are disconnected.

And yes, this is to prevent parasitic draw. I've had 2 batteries go flat within a year because of it (unless I remember to cut the main breaker off under the hood if the truck is parked more than 3-4 days.)

Yikes, 3-4 days? I've got a Harris XL-200M and a Kenwood NX-900 in my work truck wired direct to the battery with the radios internal timers triggered by ignition. I can leave it a week without issues. Much beyond that I do need to open the circuit breaker.

So the charge guard sounds like what you need. I think the D option would be the best now, but you can simplify things when you switch to the Kenwoods, if you want. Or, keep using ignition sense with the Kenwoods.

 

[daugherh]

Thank you @mmckenna for the expert level answer. I think I'll go with D for now until the upgrade happens!

 

[ramal121]

If you want a soft power off for the radios (with the instant kill switch), then diagram "B" is what you want to use.
"D" will drop power on both leads at the same time.

 

[daugherh]

@ramal121 that's a good catch about D dropping all power at once. Until I can upgrade radios to have the power memory that mmckenna mentioned I think B is better than D. Thank you!