New SDR CommRadio CR-1

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nanZor

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Formal request for 10 meter FM bandplan

I guess I'm the only one here. :)

How about a more formal request:

Request:
When using the Automatic Mode for tuning for tuning 10-meter FM, include 29.6 as part of the FM bandplan. As it is now, it changes to ssb when rolling just below the FM repeater outputs to 29.6 mhz.

Justification:
Most activity on 29.6 is FM simplex. Of course the workaround is to use Manual tuning mode and set your mode to FM. Changing it so that FM is automatically set for 29.6 mhz when in Automatic tuning mode reduces knob / button manipulation.

Status: Not critical, but worthy of inclusion into any further firmware update.
 
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nanZor

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Formal Request - audio filtering on SSB

Request:

When using external speakers in ssb mode, the audio is not filtered on the high end of the spectrum, leading to listener fatigue. Changing the filtering from 2.6 to 1.9khz is not an effective workaround, as this is not a tone control.

Compared to many other radios, it seems apparent that there is no roll-off on the high end which should start from at least say 2K with a -6dB rolloff slope.

Justification:
While using external filtering is an option, this is mostly done from a passive standpoint and loads the audio amplifier, and for purists, clouds the excellent audio that can be obtained from the CR1a itself. Examples include most overpriced amateur audio speakers with filters, and even homebrew with diy RC filtering. Powered filtering is always an option, perhaps not so much in the field, but this now defies the "low power", small-battery concept that the CR1a shines in. In many cases, a powered audio / filtering setup runs 10 times as much power as the radio itself. :)

Suggested option:
Provide an additional setup window to allow for user-selectable audio rolloff with -6db per octave slopes, say starting with 800K, 1K, and 2.5K rolloffs. Doing this in the radio itself, rather than relying on lossy outboard filtering, would allow for a large range of external speakers (front-panel headphone output included) to show off one of the greatest features of the CR1.

Status: While I get by with a Yaesu SP-8, and also a Palstar SP30B (with diy RC filtering, non-polarized audio caps etc) in fixed-station use, I would much prefer not having to take them into the field with me and use other more rugged speakers instead. The bottom speaker is VERY cool, but is not always desired, and in many cases I'm using headphones. Even though the phones are quality RadioSport headsets, I still need the high-end rolloff to prevent long-term listener fatigue on SSB.
 
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nanZor

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Mirics chipset?

I feel SO much better now that I know what's going on inside the CR1a ..

To the best of my knowledge, it incorporates this chipset much like the Funcube Pro+ and SDRplay:

http://forums.radioreference.com/so...-mirics-msi3101-general-sdr-applications.html

Of course, instead of a computer, there is some very very cool engineering wrapped around it to make operations similar to a traditional radio, and not a user-supplied computer driven unit. I don't need a waterfall etc - not to mention that the entire package runs on about 100ma of current. Bravo.

After reading reviews of the SDRplay unit, it describes exactly what I am hearing in regards to the AGC during periods of no or very weak signal across the band: an elevated noise floor in an attempt to snag signals to give the agc something to work with, ie even with no antenna attached, a dead band sounds just the same as with the antenna attached.

This is not a flaw, it is just how the agc in the Mirics chipset was designed. Apparently, it is a somewhat complex algorithm, and not just as simple as changing a setting - ie, my request for lower gain won't do much probably as the agc will simple raise the whole thing back up again.

Now that I *KNOW* what is going on, I won't be spending time fretting about it, and enjoy some diy projects in an attempt to make a good little receiver even better, like enhanced passive audio filtering, and possibly later a *low power* audio dsp to take what's left of the edge off in ssb operations - think similar to the Icom R75 UT-106 af dsp...

Of course, if there are some tweaks to the firmware from CommRadio to enhance what is already pretty nice, I won't mind one bit.
 
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nanZor

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West Mountain Radio CLRdsp helps

Bueller ?? Anyone ?? :)

This small AF dsp unit is covered pretty well elsewhere, but a few words are in order....

I chose the stand-alone box that requires a separate speaker, rather than the one that comes with it's own speaker. At a cost of about 200 milliamps with my listening setup, (I'm not blasting a party speaker with it!) it comes within my own personal 300ma max portable power budget limitation. (rig + dsp)

The reason here is that while the dsp works well, the overall high frequency response on ssb is too high for me out of the CR1a. Different issues than noise itself! So for now I'm still using a Yaesu SP8 desktop speaker that has switchable passive high frequency rolloffs with the WMR dsp box in between.

I actually dislike highly processed audio, but at a minimal setting of about 9'oclock, this is enough to tickle the noise floor and tame things for long-term listening. Sounds similar to how my Kenwood TS590S does nr and beat cancelling - albeit automatically with only one knob!

What some reviews don't show is that this box still allows for placement of one or two fingers above the tuning knob - great.

Still, I'd like to see the high-end audio on ssb attenuated (or user adjustable) *prior* to my outboard dsp filtering, and of course any tweaks possible to get the existing noise floor down as well.

At least the WMR dsp allows me to chase weak-signals near the bottom limits, or withstand nets, qso's, utilities, or other non steady-state signals without ear bleed long term.
 
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nanZor

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Antenna recommendations are useless - or are they?

Normally antenna recommendations to match to a radio are pretty much pointless - like "best antenna for Icom R75?"

At the risk of turning this into an antenna thread, the Commradio deserves a mention about it here as it differs just a tad from a conventional analog radio.

We all know that everything from a coat-hanger to a 5-acre farm "works", along with every contentious piece of advice that goes along with all that. Much of this advice ignores the fact that you are an SWL who cannot transmit to activate remote tuners, or have a shack full of test-equipment.

Unless you know exactly what you are doing beforehand, I can recommend a "type" of antenna due to the way the Commradio sdr works. And that type is the "non-resonant" antenna matched typically by a transformer at the feedpoint with a reasonably short run of coax, like no more than 50 feet or so.

WHY?

Unlike a conventional analog receiver, you may not hear much of a difference in the noise floor when there are not many active signals on the band. You may not hear much of any noise-peaks or nulls when using a manual tuner, or trimming or cutting the antenna itself. Essentially, the signals are either there or they are not, so it may be hard to figure out if you are making progress especially if the bands are already weak to begin with.

Since an SWL does not have transmit capability, remote tuners are out of the question, and shack-tuners are hard to adjust by ear without hearing peaks and nulls. Of course, an antenna analyzer would do wonders. But do you know how to interpret it, as mere SWR readings are not really an indicator of efficiency?

The goal here is to provide relatively good multi-band response, without a lot of test gear. The non-resonant types provide that. Fortunately, as an SWL we don't have to worry about matching a transmitter output, so using a transformer at the feedpoint works reasonably well even with swr values that a transmitter might require it's own internal tuner or external tuner to match to allow for operation.

As swl's, we know that antenna reciprocity only goes so far - the biggest improvement for swl's comes from increasing the signal-to-noise ratio, not necessarily obtaining the purest match. Directivity, placing the antenna away from noise sources, killing common mode coax current with chokes may be more important to us than chasing a "perfect match".

So what is the typical non-resonant antenna? A 4:1 UNUN at the base, and a length of wire anywhere from say 8 feet to 120 feet, telescopic whips long or short, helically wound our linear etc. The key here is the transformer and a relatively short run of coax. The feedline should be rf-choked, unless you are specifically trying to make the coax do double-duty as a transmission line and a ground radial.

Examples - I've used my own hand-wound 4:1 unun on pvc attached to a line run up a non-conductive fishing pole. Later I tried an LDG 4:1 unun. Even later a balun-designs unun each with increasing efficiency. I use a commercial product now with an internal hybrid 5:1 unun at the base for the most part, but hesitate to mention it as that usually becomes a thread-destroyer attracting sharks, naysayers, and hard core dx'ers who don't take into account ALL the variables of the environment in use.

There are quite a few of these antennas designed for amateurs, yet their non-resonant nature makes them good for my utility listening as well, and of course great for portable use as I can configure them into whatever environment I take the Commradio. I get good general coverage without having to take a lot of test gear with me to "do it right".

Note - I'm having so much FUN with this little radio that I picked up a second one for auxiliary duty, despite my desire for some added features or tweaking. I guess that says it all for me.
 
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rljames

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Great post with some interesting information.

But as a SWL novice, looking for very simple "Plug-n-Play" listening, it doesn't go quite far enough. As a beginner, not interested in dealing with technical issues like UNUNs (whatever they are?), RF choking and/or resonances, all I want is a decent radio and related off-the-shelf antenna(s) that allow for a successful listening experience. In the case of the CR-1a, this means across all supported bands and in a portable mode. And I don't want to spend more on gadgets, gee-gaws and gizmos than cost of radio to make this happen.

I tried the CR-1a and sent it back - OK performance when "desk bound" to attic long wire antenna for SW but seemingly quite poor on VHF/UHF and when portable for SW. When testing radio, I used antennas on hand such as telescopic whip and various "Scanner" types. So I read posts like this and wonder if maybe the CR-1a failure was my antenna selection fault...

I don't know, perhaps I'm asking too much? Or misunderstanding design intent of the CR-1a which I see as portability. But given the CR-1a size and battery possible operation, I'm thinking there must be two good simple antennas that would support the CR-1a when used as a portable.
 

nanZor

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So what is the typical non-resonant antenna? A 4:1 UNUN at the base, and a length of wire anywhere from say 8 feet to 120 feet, telescopic whips long or short, helically wound our linear etc.

An echo from the canyon asked me why I was being so obtuse. Mostly to prevent this from turning into an antenna thread specifically.

The best example is probably the 43-foot vertical. Many manufacturers make them, S9/LDG, ZeroFive, DX-Engineering, MFJ etc, and obviously your own homebrew with a quality unun.

But it doesn't have to be 43 feet nor does it have to be vertical. As an example, I use both a Chameleon Emcomm II or their hybrid unun with the loaded V1L whip for both amateur and utility swl'ing.

Point is, although they are marketed towards amateurs, they are all non-resonant antennas with a broadband impedance matching unun. This allows for generally good performance across a wide variety of bands which is great for swl's that and have no way of testing / tuning / pruning of antenna elements in the field.

Since these types of antennas are marketed primarily to amateurs, the use of a tuner either in the rig or external is primarily needed for transmitter output matching of 3:1 swr or less, but in rare cases for swl'ing this won't make too much of a difference if you don't go to feedline extremes.

For example with my setups with runs of 50 feet or so of coax, on receive with a Kenwood TS-590, there is very little difference between the rx-tuner inline or not. Nor is it too detectable with an external tuner tweaked with an analyzer. For rx-only, a reasonably short feedline and just the antenna with unun works fine. Hard core dx'ers where .5 dB of loss might pull their hair out. :)

I suppose if you want to know more there are dedicated threads for that, but wanted to point out that this *type* of antenna is a convenient way to get a Commradio up and running fast in the field without a lot of test gear.
 
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nanZor

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When testing radio, I used antennas on hand such as telescopic whip and various "Scanner" types. So I read posts like this and wonder if maybe the CR-1a failure was my antenna selection fault...

Not really, but understand that the CR1a while portable, is in a different league than your common portable like Grundigs or Tecsuns which rely on heavy amplification of a small telescopic. No problem - whatever suits your needs best.
 

nanZor

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Encoder tuning stability discovery

I think I found something -

I'm REALLY hard on the vfo on both of my CR1a's, so an occasional minor skip or temporary hang doesn't bug me, but it happens once in awhile. I attribute this to a smallish tuning knob, and a heavy dose of morning coffee jitters.

What I found is that once I went into the "morse" decode mode (hold down MODE] and tuned around, I could whip the vfo around like there was no tomorrow and everything is still very very smooth.

And, coming out of morse-mode, it *seems* that smoothness has held up no matter what mode I'm in.

I powered cycled the radio, and again abused the vfo knob. Still seems smoother than before. Makes me wonder if some sort of tuning / encoder resolution improvement in morse mode has found it's way out to be global.

We're not talking mere resolution adjustments, but overall tuning stability.

I may just be delusional or kidding myself, so I'll keep an eye out to see if this is all just a temporary coincidence. And maybe apply another cup of coffee to see what happens. :)
 

W4KRR

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I posted this question on the Yahoo CommRadio group, but received no reply, so I will try here:

I just received my CR-1a. I noticed that when using a 9 volt external power supply ("Wall Wart") to charge the radio, the battery icon lights along with a power plug icon to the left of the battery icon. After a few seconds, the power plug icon starts to flash on and off alternately with the battery icon. This stops after a few seconds, but this process resumes again after another few seconds.

What does this indicate? I don't believe the manual covers this. The only things I can think of is either the wrong polarity, or the power supply isn't supplying sufficient power to charge the battery.

Thanks!
 

nanZor

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Hi Ken!

What is the current rating of the wall wart?

Your unit most likely has the internal battery already installed, and while the radio itself draws a very measly amount of current of about 70ma or so, when charging the battery which it does by default, it can draw many hundreds of milliamps, more than 500 if you let it when using the 6-18v port. (the usb port is current limited to no more than 500ma, the old usb standard).

I may be wrong, but I've got a feeling your wall wart is on the small side...

Also beware of using modern wall-warts that aren't the old linear type. Most of the new ones are switching devices, and if the antenna is close enough, can be heard sometimes even if you choke it with ferrites.
 

W4KRR

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It's a Radio Shack 9 volt, 300 mA unit. Just because it's what I had it lying around. It's probably on the small side, capacity wise.

Charging via the USB cable presents no issues.
 

nanZor

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Less coffee provides tuning stability

Um, yeah, seems like less coffee was the answer to the minor skipping issue when doing knife-edge tuning transitions. :)

Ken - I have a lot of fun powering the radio various ways. Being able to charge and run at the same time is pretty neat. The usb port is the most convenient for the obvious like computer port charging, but I also run with cellphone portable battery packs, solar-panels with 5 volt usb outputs (Anker 8 and 14 watt panels) etc. Of course a handful of AA's works too. A lot of flexibility here.
 

nanZor

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The later models use a single 2600mah Tenergy 3.7v 18650. It is also a flat-top, and is also protected. Silver / Black wrapper. Earlier models used the ones with the blue/green wrapper. The radio puts very little stress on these cells, so they will lead a pretty pampered life.

If you are thinking of replacements, Commradio stocks them. That might ease any fears of obtaining counterfeits from disreputable sources elsewhere.

If you do replace it on your own, do NOT use a button-top, nor would I advise using a non-protected cell. Note that the 18650 size is a generic standard, and some cell manufacturers may differ greatly from these dimensions - or at least enough to have a sloppy fit, or not fit into the holder at all.

Again - do not try to force-fit a button cell into the internal holder - which usually results in a misaligned or even shorted button cap.

If you really want to get into the nitty gritty of it all, especially op "HKJ" reviews, then this subforum might be of interest:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?9-Flashlight-Electronics-Batteries-Included&

Note that most are using current WAAY higher than what we do in the radio, so aside from choosing quality, there is no need to go bananas for a high-current rated cell. The "oem" Tenergy from Commradio is just fine.
 
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nanZor

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Static fix for encoder skip

FOUND IT!

Having two CR1a's made this easier to diagnose. Both of the encoders can't go stupid at exactly the same time.

Once I looked beyond morning-coffee jitters, I looked at the situation in more detail. I run primarily non-grounded as a portable. Going from an intermittent skip, even backwards operation of the vfo, but both at the same time ? Static!

Here's the setup and it's bad!

Hot dry dusty winds.
Antennas isolated with no physical connection to ground. (elevated radials)
Too lazy to ground the rig.
Glass coffee / worktable.
Rubber / plastic feet on glass.
Synthetic carpet. Synthetic blend socks on carpet.
Metallic tuning knob.

Long story short - next day it's raining slightly. VFO's work perfectly as long as I don't drink espresso. :)

The CR1a's have been admirable in that they have suffered from major ESD whenever I touched it. Enough so to make it reset or lose display and/or audio. Enough to make the attached WMR DSP unit's light up the clip led and go stupid. Fortunately the CR1a's always survive. Not sure how many times the WMR dsp unit will take that.

All it took was a light rain to make the light-bulb go on. Duh!

In true laziness I run the CR1 over an antistatic mat when on the glass table. For fun, wrapped many rubber bands around the tuning knob.

The whole problem was due to my laziness and assuming that coffee was the major culprit. Under *normal* conditions the vfo's work perfectly. But it seems that in certain circumstances there is enough static to upset the vfo, but not enough to make the whole radio fail.

Had to laugh at myself.
 
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nanZor

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Yet another tuning fix

Cripes - returned from work to a decafeinated, grounded, and non-static room (raining), and found one of the CR1a's back to a skip when I hammer the vfo knob. Normally this wouldn't be a problem or returnable issue, but I'm looking for the problem now.

Open the case to inspect for cold solder joints on the encoder. Nope, that board is beautiful - a delight to look at. Much like looking at the insides of a Fluke or Agilent piece of test gear. This is where part of your money goes - but I digress.

With a magnifying glass, spotted some open squares on the sides and top of the encoder casing with some mechanical movement going on - most likely the detent spring, but also what looks like perhaps a thin washer between the encoder and rear switch that might be a wiper ground? I don't know really.

Crossed fingers and put a *light* little spray of Deoxit-D5 into them, exercised the vfo and put the whole thing back together. Without knowing how the encoder is set up mechanically, maybe this fix is like spraying your coax with swr-be-gone. :)

Once again perfection even when totally hammering the vfo. It might be too early to proclaim victory, but I like what I am seeing so far. We'll see if this is a lunatic observation....
 
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rljames

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Wondering - Have you discussed any of the CR-1a "encoder skip" problem with Commradio? Is this sort of issue seen in other radios? And I'm assuming that probable cause/fix will be strictly hardware based?
 

darkwarkonian

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Great HF Receiver!

received my CR-1a yesterday. Great radio for HF, I do not care about its VHF and UHF bands, I have others radios for that purpose. I compared it to a Drake R8 and a R75. I found it more pleasant to listen to for strong and weak signals. What I would improve, sorted in priority order:

1) Slower than SLOW or user configurable AGC. I find its AGC too fast for SSB with the end result of too much ambient/atmospheric background noise to listen to. That can become tiring over time.

2) Configurable maximum AGC gain. As for (1) that would greatly improve the listening experience.

3) The metallic tuning knob is not that comfortable for fast and constant tuning, a polished surface would had been more comfortable.

The background hiss is not a problem to me, headphones with volume control solve the problem. Reduce the volume of CR-1a to the minimum and adjust the volume of the headphones to get rid of the hiss. Following that adjustment, only control the volume from the radio.

The morse decoder is mostly unusable, even with a clean signal. If flash and ram are limited I would get rid of that feature and focus on the listening experience (see 1 and 2).

I find the provided filter widths sufficient for SSB. I am mostly interested in ham and utility transmissions.

My testing was done with a ALA1530S+ with its original preamplifier and also in a configuration where it is replaced by the DXE-RPA-1 with a balanced 300 ohms to unbalanced 75 ohms TV balun between the loop and the preamplifier (balun directly connected to the loop, 1.5 feet between antenna and preamp). That is far to be an ideal matching (even more considering that the loop has a very low impedance), but that is what I had available to me at that time and the end result is a better signal-to-noise ratio as verified with multiple radios, including a WinRadio Excalibur. I have multiple DXE-RPA-1 in series that are available in that setup, but the CR-1A needed only the first amplification stage (one preamp), that is, weak signals with high S/N ratio for input.

Thanks to CommRadio for that great radio. With (1) and (2) that would make the CR-1a my main receiver when a waterfall display is not required.

Andre
 

nanZor

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Wondering - Have you discussed any of the CR-1a "encoder skip" problem with Commradio?

Not really - I'm not sure it is widespread as those who don't have the problem don't have anything to report. We're only seeing the vocal minority probably.

Fortunately, the little shot of Deoxit-D5 into the little squares on the encoder casing has fixed my problem for good! Grounded, not grounded, antenna or not, even morning coffee jitters and I can't make this thing skip. SMOOTH baby! I don't know where it crept to, but the tiny shot of deoxit seemed to work.

Is this sort of issue seen in other radios?
It can be pretty common. In a high-static environment, I already blew out the encoder in an Icom 718. I made a *pair* of Yaesu FT-450's encoders go stupid permanently.

The CR1 impressed me because I have basically sent tesla-like arcs through it, and it survives. I think there was just a little oxidation somewhere that the small shot of deoxit cleaned up. The fact that I could actually GET to it without ripping the rig and entire encoder assembly apart made me very happy!

And I'm assuming that probable cause/fix will be strictly hardware based?

In the case of light oxidation, that could be hard to track down. It might have been perfect leaving the factory, but a few months in damp retail storage could have taken it's toll. Who knows.

The best part is that this is what appears to be a long-term easy fix without having to send it back.
 
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