gtaman
TACSAT
Photo for reference of old vs new
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XG-100P Intermittent Keypad
- Thread starter adamr368
- Start date
Pictured are 2 revs of the side connector flex.
The older "fat" flexes (one on the right) are known to be very brittle with age, and always tend to tear or rip easily when removed if extreme care isn't used. The newer ones to the left are a bit more resilient. FYI.
Finished re-housing mine yesterday - took about an hour. No drama with connectors or knobs - everything went smoothly. Between this and the pogo repair I have what feels like a brand new radio, so thanks to all here and on the other forum for all of their insight and support!
I took a lot of pictures to help "illustrate" an awesome step-by-step guide for re-housing that @gtaman provided on another forum, so DM me if there is something specific that you need to help with repair your radio and I'll see what I can do to assist.
gtaman
TACSAT
I’ll copy it
gtaman
TACSAT
Watch out for swollen batteries. Those will bend/break the pogo pins.
Remove battery and antenna.
Use X-Key to remove castle nut for antenna.
Remove top rear cover.
Remove the hex screws holding the back housing to the board. There is one hidden near the top under a sticker.
You don’t have to remove the mini coax from the antenna on the board. You can pull out the rf connector from the housing carefully. Remember it is keyed so it can only go back in one way.
I know the RF shields on the chips are cute and squishy. Don’t f&#% with them.
Be careful splitting the boards you can walk a plastic case spudger back and forth on different sides to split them.
Remove the middle metal shield.
Pop the flexes off carefully after splitting the boards. Remove the Kapton tape and disconnect the two side flexes from the board and the side of the case.
These are very fragile do not bend them they will tear.
Pop out the keypad flex from the back as well as the two top flexes.
The display can stay plugged in. The board should hold it.
Remove the lower board to expose the front housing.
When swapping the housing remove the white screw gaskets as well as the front mic gasket. It is easily missed.
Transfer all the gaskets to the new housing. Also remember to remove the protective film from the inside of the housing window.
Carefully set the first board and line up the screw holes. The key pad flex can be tricky. You can use tap to keep it up so you can set the first board without smashing it.
Set the two side flex’s in their positions. Click the board side then click the housing side. Replace the Kapton tape on the housing sides keeping the connector flush to the housing side. You can use more Kapton tape to make a smooth transition on both sides of the housing connector side.
Replace the metal shield.
Sandwich the top board on top of the metal shield. The side connectors should slide right past the side of the board. If it catches it can rip it. That is why I recommend replacing it.
The top board should squish in the black block. Sometimes it takes a little pressure to squish the boards together.
Move the rf connector thru the hole. Remember it is keyed so it only goes in one way.
Replace the back plate with screws. Make sure you don’t loose the rear mic gasket.
Tighten down the castle nut and star washer.
The knobs can be a PITA. I recommended just replacing them.
Place the concentric switches on the housing. Sometimes you need to push them a little hard to seat.
Be careful not to bend the posts but line up the first new knob on the post. Using the palm of your hand put pressure on the knob until it slides down and snaps in. It happens quickly once it moves.
Repeat for the other knob.
Clean the face then apply the labels.
I know this is vague but it’s pretty simple as long as you are careful
Remove battery and antenna.
Use X-Key to remove castle nut for antenna.
Remove top rear cover.
Remove the hex screws holding the back housing to the board. There is one hidden near the top under a sticker.
You don’t have to remove the mini coax from the antenna on the board. You can pull out the rf connector from the housing carefully. Remember it is keyed so it can only go back in one way.
I know the RF shields on the chips are cute and squishy. Don’t f&#% with them.
Be careful splitting the boards you can walk a plastic case spudger back and forth on different sides to split them.
Remove the middle metal shield.
Pop the flexes off carefully after splitting the boards. Remove the Kapton tape and disconnect the two side flexes from the board and the side of the case.
These are very fragile do not bend them they will tear.
Pop out the keypad flex from the back as well as the two top flexes.
The display can stay plugged in. The board should hold it.
Remove the lower board to expose the front housing.
When swapping the housing remove the white screw gaskets as well as the front mic gasket. It is easily missed.
Transfer all the gaskets to the new housing. Also remember to remove the protective film from the inside of the housing window.
Carefully set the first board and line up the screw holes. The key pad flex can be tricky. You can use tap to keep it up so you can set the first board without smashing it.
Set the two side flex’s in their positions. Click the board side then click the housing side. Replace the Kapton tape on the housing sides keeping the connector flush to the housing side. You can use more Kapton tape to make a smooth transition on both sides of the housing connector side.
Replace the metal shield.
Sandwich the top board on top of the metal shield. The side connectors should slide right past the side of the board. If it catches it can rip it. That is why I recommend replacing it.
The top board should squish in the black block. Sometimes it takes a little pressure to squish the boards together.
Move the rf connector thru the hole. Remember it is keyed so it only goes in one way.
Replace the back plate with screws. Make sure you don’t loose the rear mic gasket.
Tighten down the castle nut and star washer.
The knobs can be a PITA. I recommended just replacing them.
Place the concentric switches on the housing. Sometimes you need to push them a little hard to seat.
Be careful not to bend the posts but line up the first new knob on the post. Using the palm of your hand put pressure on the knob until it slides down and snaps in. It happens quickly once it moves.
Repeat for the other knob.
Clean the face then apply the labels.
I know this is vague but it’s pretty simple as long as you are careful
Just to add a few notes from my experiences...
The RF connector is just a press fit u.fl style and I think it's better to remove it to get it out of the way and prevent stress on the small coax. There is also a metal collar that is pressed into the top of the housing, you have to push it out and transfer to the new housing.
When it comes to the side flexes, first thing I'd do is look at the hardware revision of your radio. If it's a Rev 09 you're playing with fire, best to leave it be if it works. I've done Rev 11 and it was touchy, proceed with caution. Rev 13 is fine and Rev 20 is the final version and also no problem. Find the rev in the radio info menu under RF HW:
Also my method for the flexes, my opinion is don't remove it if not necessary. So peel the tape and remove from the side but leave them plugged into the board side. Saves you from 2 removal/insertion operations and chances of damage. They will be out of the way enough to remove and insert the board without catching. I also use tape on the keypad flex when re-inserting the circuit board to keep it pinned to the side of the housing. Scotch tape is good as it will hold but is not overly sticky.
The microphone gaskets are easy to miss and the radio will hate you if you forget it and have Noise Cancellation turned on. It will work OK if you turn NC off but is still not ideal. Don't forget it. You may notice I said gaskets (plural) and that is because the rear microphone has a flat black gasket on it as well. It seems to prefer to stay stuck to the microphone but if it comes off it takes a little care to make sure it stays lined up when re-installing the rear metal plate.
The white screw gaskets may not be white depending on whether your radio is an -IS model or depending on hardware revision. If you look at them you can see a little cutout on once side, line that up facing toward the display so they fit better.
You might have to play with the flex inside the top of the housing that connects the controls. It has some routing and clips it should go through to help keep in it place and line up with the board socket. Look at how it is done in the old housing while taking it apart and try to duplicate that when putting the new one on.
Watch out on the side with the PTT as there is a small grounding contact spring that you will catch with the board or the middle metal support. There is another one flat on one board that isn't as easy to catch but just something else to watch for.
**If anyone ended up with an extra tall channel knob, I need one so please contact me. I have a handful of tall volume knobs and no matching channel knobs.**
No that's a separate part.
Thank you.
It's a $5 part: New London Technology Online Store
You may run into problems obtaining parts. Everything related to the XG-100P is export regulated under EAR99 by the U.S. Department of Commerce. That includes all files, programming software, manuals, cables, accessories and all parts. If NLT knows what they are doing they won't be able to sell you parts without the proper paperwork filled out that shows U.S. Government approval for the export of the parts to Australia. How did you obtain the XG-100P and RPM?
No export or re-export is permitted without written approval from the U.S.
Government. Rated: EAR99; in accordance with U.S. Dept. of Commerce regulations 15CFR774, Export Administration Regulations.
If my item is EAR99, does that mean I don’t need a license? EAR99 items will generally ship under the export designation “NLR” which stands for “No License Required.” However, if your proposed export of an EAR99 item is to an embargoed country, to an end user of concern or in support of a prohibited end use, you may be required to obtain an export license.
by_themself
Newbie
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2023
- Messages
- 1
Hey mate, i just wanted to jump in here and mention I just purchased an XG100p and live in Australia, i just received the radio today with no issues with customs. I was personally worried about getting caught up with these export restrictions but it passed the USA and AUS Customs control and it was declared properly as a "Harris Unity xg100p radio" (this was on the packing label and also on the customs declaration) so there should be no issues with getting parts or a new radio.
