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Programming a Minitor Pager on the Cheap - DIY Style Write Up

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louis2322

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There are write-ups available, a quick search should tell you.

I found the how to, thats all done. Now a dumb question: My FD's paging and response freqs are in different groups(33.4800 for paging, 46.4600 for dispatch) I am trying to combine both freqs onto the same pager, the 46.4600 is going to be monitor only. Is there a hack I havent found?
 

tgrantjr

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I followed the directions on here and made it out of a minotor charger. I put the wires on the board and soldered the other end and i get the radio shack scanner wire. Every time i try to read it will go thru like it is and give me a communication error. I have tried everything on windows 7 and will not work. anyone have any ideas?
 

mlmummert

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I found the how to, thats all done. Now a dumb question: My FD's paging and response freqs are in different groups(33.4800 for paging, 46.4600 for dispatch) I am trying to combine both freqs onto the same pager, the 46.4600 is going to be monitor only. Is there a hack I havent found?

I don't think you're going to get the low and high splits both on one unit.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

E-542

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Between job hunting and life overall, I really do -not- have the time to sit down and make one of these. I'm gonna be getting a scanner cable soon, so, would someone by chance mind making the OP's one for me? I can throw in a few bucks for the mat. cost and some labor cost, and cover shipping, I just really do not have the time as I said to sit down, measure the holes, etc... I also don't have a soldering iron. T_T
 

EngineCo8

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Ok so here's a shot in the dark.....the RS 20-047 programing cable was discontinued......so does anyone know if the RS 20-546 is pined the same? (see first picture in the original post) Thanks.
 

concordfd1

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Apr 24, 2013
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USB Scanner Programming Cable

USB Scanner Programming Cable:
USB Scanner Programming Cable - RadioShack.com

1/8" 3-conductor TRS Jack:
1/8" Stereo Panel-Mount Audio Jack (2-Pack) - RadioShack.com

Project Box:
Project Enclosure (3x2x1") - RadioShack.com

Some Wire:
75-Ft. UL-Recognized Hookup Wire (22AWG) - RadioShack.com

For the Pins, you just need to find something that has pins that will fit in the holes on the bottom of the Minitor, you might be able to use the pins from a DB9 connector:
9-Position Male Crimp D-Sub Connector - RadioShack.com

Other than that you need a soldering iron, solder, multimeter (to check continuity), a hot glue gun, and some glue sticks.


will this work for the USB Cable RadioShack USB-PC Scanner Programming Cable : Programming Cables | RadioShack.com
 

EngineCo8

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Welp for those that care I should have mine done soon. I'll post pics later of what I did....basically what was done in the OP but slightly different
 

Colton25

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i cant seem to find the usb-3.5 cable anywhere, would it be possible to just strip a usb cable open and use it's wires? i just dont know what wires go where the usb cable has green, white, red, and black in it
 

SteveC0625

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i cant seem to find the usb-3.5 cable anywhere, would it be possible to just strip a usb cable open and use it's wires? i just dont know what wires go where the usb cable has green, white, red, and black in it
Nope, it's got to have the logic circuitry that is in the RS programming cable.

Edit to add... You haven't looked very hard, have you? There are 6 of of them offered on Ebay right now.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trk...+scanner+programming+cable&_sacat=0&_from=R40
 
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wolfy

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TTL converter

Simply speaking, you need TX, RX, GND and you can get the TTL converter cables from places like Mouser, Jameco and other electronic supply places (TTL-232R-3V3-WE FTDI | Mouser Mouser Part #: 895-TTL-232R-3V3-WE ) work great, Mouser's price is $20.00 USD plus shipping, I think Radio Shack's price is $35 or more..

I just modified a cradle today using only the pins from a standard Minitor V pager, as long as you dont need the battery charger in the back you can use the pins from it and make your own with minimal issues.

We took two pins from the rear battery charging point and ground down the thick barrel length to the thick barrel length of the short pins that the pager sits in. VERY CAREFULLY we soldered a STEREO extension cable female plug wire to two springs (NEED TO USE THEM!) and made sure the wires would not touch any other part of the board or other pins, and then ground down the thin barrel to the same length as the short pins. Attaching the ground wire to a scraped part of the PCB on the very edge that is part of the very large ground section.

We just drilled a hole near the upper side of the indented piece on the back of the pager and ran the wire through it, about 4 to 5 inches worth, tied a knot to keep it from pulling through.

Pay very close attention to the size of the pins you make, and the height of the new pins springs compared to the others as they need to be very close so the pager will sit properly. The other springs sit on a pad on the PCB so make sure you dont have any open wires that may cross short!

If you do this right, your cradle will still charge the pager, will program the pager, and will supply voltage to the pager for doing flash upgrading as well. Just remember to set pager to channel C and hold the squelch down when you turn it on, long tone will come and go then its set for programming.

As always, READ, SAVE, SAVE TO A DIFFERENT LOCATION (yes, twice), THEN and ONLY then ... Program!!!! Apply this with ANY radio programming and you will save yourself some major headaches in the future!
 
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I was successfully able to program my Minitor 3 using the radio shack programming cable. I also attempted to program a Unication digital Pager using the same method. I couldn't get it to work, I was only able to get the pager to beep after it tried to read the pager. Will or should the radio shack programming cable be able to work or is it not possible?
 

62Truck

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Has any one been able to make out out of a Minitor III/IV amplified charger
 

N1SQB

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Finally got around to building one!

Thanks to the OP and my good friend Joe Tomaso, I got around to building one for my soon to come minitor IV.

Manny
 
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SCPD

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Maybe someone can help understand something, I have downloaded the min 4 software to my comp, do I need any drivers installed in computer to make the pps communicate with my craddle. What I'm trying to say is if I make my USB cable with the 1/8 plug on the opposite of the cable, then make a craddle with a female 1/8 plug, with wires to connect to my min4 (TX, RX, and Gnd) that should be all I need, or do I need to buy or make any thing else to make it function. I'm sorry, but I am a visual leaner, and I'm trying to understand everything. Thanks for all the help. George
 

krokus

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Wirelessly posted (Opera/9.80 (Android 2.3.4; Linux; Opera Mobi/ADR-1309251116) Presto/2.11.355 Version/12.10)

geoemmaessex said:
Maybe someone can help understand something, I have downloaded the min 4 software to my comp, do I need any drivers installed in computer to make the pps communicate with my craddle. What I'm trying to say is if I make my USB cable with the 1/8 plug on the opposite of the cable, then make a craddle with a female 1/8 plug, with wires to connect to my min4 (TX, RX, and Gnd) that should be all I need, or do I need to buy or make any thing else to make it function. I'm sorry, but I am a visual leaner, and I'm trying to understand everything. Thanks for all the help. George

That is not a USB connection. What is described in this thread utilizes a USB to serial converter.
 

SCPD

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So instead of a USB connection on the end of my cable, I would need a serial port connector on the end of my cable, and that would be how I connect to my computer? Is that correct?
 

krokus

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So instead of a USB connection on the end of my cable, I would need a serial port connector on the end of my cable, and that would be how I connect to my computer? Is that correct?

Not really. This project adapts a non-standard serial connector, to connect to the pins of the Minitor. A stereo 1/8-inch (3.5 mm) jack makes the connection from the GRE-sourced USB to serial adapter and the homebrew programming cradle.

Sent from Tapatalk
 

WX9EMS

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Why would you tear apart an amplified base to make a programming base? Seems like a waste, but I guess use what you have. I made mine out of two charging bases I acquired on the cheap. I added the missing pin/spring from the other charging base, and modified the pcb. Added a RJ-45 jack into the rear of the base. The programming base has been wired to work with a Kenwood KPG-46 programming cable.
 
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